You've probably seen the "1960s" section at the local party store. It's usually a sea of neon polyester, flimsy headbands, and maybe a pair of plastic go-go boots that smell like a shower curtain. It's kinda frustrating. Honestly, if you actually look at the real history of 1960s costume for women, you’ll realize we’ve boiled an entire decade of radical social change down into a few tired cliches that barely resemble what people actually wore.
The sixties didn't just happen all at once.
In 1960, women were still wearing girdles and matching their handbags to their shoes. By 1969, they were wearing sheer fabrics, chainmail, and bells on their ankles. It was a mess. A glorious, chaotic, fashion-forward mess. If you're trying to put together an authentic outfit, you have to decide which 1960s you’re talking about because the "Mad Men" era and the "Woodstock" era are basically different planets.
The split personality of the early sixties
Most people forget that the early 1960s was really just the 1950s with a slightly shorter hemline. Look at Jackie Kennedy. She was the undisputed blueprint. She wore structured pillbox hats and wool shift dresses that didn't show an ounce of cleavage. It was about poise. It was about looking like you had a very expensive tailor and a lot of starch.
The silhouette was boxy.
If you want an authentic 1960s costume for women from this specific window, you’re looking for "The Jackie Look." This means sleeveless shift dresses with boat necks. It means white gloves—yes, even for a quick trip to the store—and low-heeled pumps. The fabric was heavy. Think wool crepe or thick silk shantung. These weren't clothes you could move in very well, which was sort of the point. You were meant to be a statue of elegance.
But then, things got weird.
By 1963, the influence of Mary Quant started trickling over from London. Quant is the person we usually credit for the miniskirt, though French designer André Courrèges might have a bone to pick with that. Either way, the "Youthquake" was starting. Suddenly, the goal wasn't to look like your mother; it was to look like a literal child. This is why you see so many "baby doll" dresses and Peter Pan collars. It was a rebellion through regression.
Mary Quant and the rise of the London look
If you’re aiming for that classic "Mod" style, you’re looking at the mid-sixties. This is the era of Twiggy. It’s all about the "androgynous" look—long, thin legs, flat chests, and short, cropped hair. This was a massive shift. For decades, the female ideal was the hourglass. Suddenly, the ideal was a rectangle.
The fabrics changed too.
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Vinyl. PVC. Acrylic. 1960s costume for women started looking like it was made in a laboratory instead of a sewing room. Space-age fashion was a real thing. Designers like Pierre Cardin were obsessed with the moon landing, so they made dresses that looked like satellites. They used silver metallics and cut-out "portholes" in the fabric. It was uncomfortable, sure, but it looked like the future.
How to get the Mod look right
Don't buy a pre-packaged costume. Seriously, don't. Go to a thrift store and look for A-line silhouettes. A real Mod outfit needs:
- Tights: Not just any tights. Opaque, brightly colored tights. Mustard yellow, forest green, or stark white. This was a huge departure from the sheer nylons of the fifties.
- The Shoes: Flat Mary Janes or kitten heels. If you’re going for boots, they shouldn't be the knee-high platform ones—those are more 70s. Look for "Go-Go" boots that hit mid-calf with a low, chunky heel.
- The Makeup: This is the most important part. You need heavy black eyeliner, massive fake lashes (top and bottom), and pale, "erased" lips. The eyes were everything.
The radical shift of the late sixties
Everything changed around 1967. The "Summer of Love" basically killed the Mod movement. Fashion stopped being about the future and started being about the past—specifically, a romanticized version of the Victorian era and Eastern cultures.
This is where the "Hippie" aesthetic comes in, but it’s often misinterpreted.
A real 1960s costume for women from 1968 or 1969 wasn't just "peace signs and tie-dye." In fact, tie-dye was actually pretty rare compared to what people think. It was more about natural fibers. It was about long, flowing "Maxi" dresses, patchwork denim, and velvet.
There was a lot of cultural appropriation happening too, which is a nuance people often overlook. You saw Nehru collars from India, dashikis from Africa, and moccasins inspired by Native American cultures. It was a mishmash of global influences worn by people who were trying to "find themselves" through their wardrobe.
The hemlines went from the extreme mini to the extreme maxi. You’d see women in floor-length skirts with massive floral prints, often paired with a simple ribbed "poor boy" sweater. Bra-burning became a symbolic act of the feminist movement, and while the literal burning of bras was mostly a media myth, the sentiment was real. Women started ditching the structured undergarments that had defined their lives for centuries. The look became softer. More "natural."
Why the "Costume" version gets it wrong
The problem with modern 1960s costume for women is that it lacks texture. The sixties were tactile. You had the scratchy wool of the early years, the slick vinyl of the mid-years, and the soft suede and heavy denim of the late years.
When you buy a cheap costume, it’s all the same thin, shiny material. It lacks the "weight" of history. If you want to stand out, you need to layer. In the sixties, people wore slips. They wore pins. They wore scarves tied around their necks or their hair. It wasn't just a dress; it was a curated assembly of accessories.
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Take the "Paper Dress" for example.
In 1966, the Scott Paper Company created a disposable dress as a marketing gimmick. You were supposed to wear it once and throw it away. It was the peak of the "throwaway culture" of the decade. While you probably won't find an original (they were paper, after all), you can mimic this vibe by looking for stiff, geometric prints that feel a bit avant-garde.
Authentic Hair and Beauty: More than just a Beehive
You can’t talk about 1960s costume for women without talking about hair. The beehive is the go-to, but it’s hard to pull off without looking like a caricature.
In the early 60s, it was the "Flip." Think Mary Tyler Moore. Hair was set in rollers, teased at the crown, and flicked out at the ends. It required a gallon of hairspray. If you touched it, it would probably crunch.
By the mid-60s, the Vidal Sassoon 5-point cut changed everything. It was a sharp, geometric bob that moved when you walked. It was the ultimate "liberated" haircut because you didn't have to spend hours under a dryer.
Then came the "Big Hair" of the late 60s. This wasn't the structured beehive; it was the long, teased, bohemian hair of people like Brigitte Bardot or Cher. It was messy. It was sexy. It was meant to look like you’d just spent the day in a field.
A note on the "Mini" controversy
It’s worth noting that the miniskirt wasn't just a fashion choice; it was a political statement. In 1966, some businesses actually banned women from wearing them. There were protests. When you wear a miniskirt as part of a 1960s costume for women, you’re wearing a piece of feminist history. It was about women reclaiming their bodies and deciding how much skin they wanted to show, regardless of what the "establishment" thought.
Putting it all together: Practical tips
If you’re building an outfit for an event or a production, don't go for "The 60s." Go for a year.
Pick 1962 if you want to look like a sophisticated secretary. You need a pencil skirt that hits just below the knee, a crisp white blouse, and a string of pearls. Your hair should be perfectly coiffed.
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Pick 1966 if you want to be a Mod. Go for a bold, monochromatic look. Black and white stripes. A shift dress that hits mid-thigh. Big plastic earrings. This is the "London" vibe.
Pick 1969 if you want the festival look. Look for bell-bottom jeans (high waisted, please), a crochet vest, and no shoes if the venue allows it. Use a headband worn across the forehead, not over the top of the head.
The Footwear Factor
I can't emphasize this enough: shoes make or break the outfit.
- The Kitten Heel: Essential for early 60s.
- The Chelsea Boot: Great for a Mod, slightly masculine look.
- The Go-Go Boot: White is the classic, but they also came in patent black and silver.
- The Barefoot Look/Sandals: Only for the late-decade hippie vibe.
Actionable Steps for your 1960s Wardrobe
Stop looking at costume shops. Start looking at vintage sellers on Etsy or Depop. Search for keywords like "true vintage 60s" or "Lilly Pulitzer vintage."
Check the labels. If it says "Made in the USA" with a union stamp (ILGWU), you’ve hit the jackpot. These garments are constructed better than anything you’ll find at a fast-fashion retailer today. The zippers are metal. The seams are reinforced.
Focus on the silhouette first. A dress can have the perfect 60s print, but if the cut is modern, it will look like a costume. Look for darts in the bust and a lack of stretch in the fabric. 1960s clothes didn't have much Lycra. They were shaped to the body through tailoring, not through the fabric's elasticity.
Finally, do your research on the subcultures. Were you a "Rocker"? A "Mod"? A "Flower Child"? Each group had its own uniform. Mixing them up is the quickest way to look like you're wearing a costume rather than an outfit.
The 1960s were about breaking rules, but you have to know the rules first to break them effectively. Once you understand the transition from the structured fifties to the wild seventies, your 1960s costume for women will feel less like a parody and more like a tribute to one of the most transformative decades in fashion history.
Skip the plastic boots. Buy some real vintage. Your outfit—and the photos of it—will thank you.
Next Steps for Authenticity:
- Search for "ILGWU label" on vintage sites to find genuine American-made pieces from the era.
- Watch 1960s cinema like Pillow Talk (1959/60), Blow-Up (1966), and Easy Rider (1969) to see how the clothing moved in real life.
- Invest in a "bumpit" or hair donut to achieve the necessary volume for early-to-mid-decade styles without damaging your hair with excessive teasing.