You see them everywhere the second the temperature drops. Big, honking bulbs sitting in boxes at the grocery store or tucked into fancy ceramic pots at the nursery. Most people just grab a box, dump in some water, and hope for the best. But if you've ever found yourself staring at a "Red Lion" that looks more like a sad orange or a "Christmas Gift" white that’s actually greenish-yellow, you know these plants are finicky. White and red amaryllis are the backbone of winter gardening, yet we treat them like disposable decor. That’s a mistake.
These aren't just "holiday plants." They’re Hippeastrum. Real amaryllis actually comes from South Africa, while the ones we grow in pots are South American hybrids. They are tough, weird, and surprisingly long-lived if you stop treating them like a bouquet of cut flowers.
The Messy Reality of White and Red Amaryllis Varieties
Choosing a bulb based on the picture on the box is a gamble. Seriously. Most "red" amaryllis sold in big-box stores are mass-produced clones that prioritize speed over color depth. If you want a red that actually stops people in their tracks, you have to look for specific cultivars like 'Ferrari' or the velvety, almost-black 'Royal Velvet.' They have a richness that the standard hardware store varieties just can't match.
Then you have the whites. White amaryllis is a different beast entirely. While a red one wants to be the loudest thing in the room, a white variety like 'Mont Blanc' or 'Picotee'—which has that gorgeous, razor-thin red edge—is all about texture. The "whiteness" of these flowers actually comes from the way light reflects off the microscopic cells on the petals. It’s not pigment; it’s structural color. That’s why they sometimes look like they’re sparkling under your living room lights.
It’s also worth noting that white varieties tend to be slightly more temperamental. Expert growers often find that white bulbs take a week or two longer to wake up from dormancy than their red cousins. They’re slow starters. They need a bit more warmth to get that first green spear poking out of the papery skin.
Why Your Red Isn't Red and Your White is Green
Light is everything. If you stick your amaryllis in a dark corner because it "looks nice" there, the plant is going to struggle. Low light causes the stalks to stretch—a process called etiolation—making them top-heavy and prone to snapping. But more importantly, light affects the color. Red amaryllis needs bright, indirect light to develop those deep anthocyanin pigments. Without it, the red looks washed out or muddy.
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White amaryllis has the opposite problem. If they get too much direct, hot sun through a window, the petals can actually develop a greenish tint or "burn" at the edges. You want that crisp, snowy look? Give it bright light, but keep it cool. A room that stays around 65°F (18°C) is the sweet spot. It slows down the blooming process, which means the flowers last for three weeks instead of five days.
The Dormancy Myth That Kills Bulbs
Most people throw their amaryllis away once the petals wilt. Honestly, it’s a tragedy. These bulbs can live for decades. My grandmother had a white amaryllis that was older than I am. The trick isn't some secret fertilizer; it’s understanding that the plant is a solar battery.
After the flowers fade, the real work begins. You have to cut the flower stalk—not the leaves—and treat it like a houseplant. Those long, strap-like leaves are photosynthesizing, shoving energy back down into the bulb for next year. If you don't feed it during this stage, the bulb shrinks. A shrunken bulb won't bloom next year. It’s that simple.
- Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10) every two weeks.
- Keep it in the sunniest window you have.
- Don't let it dry out completely, but don't drown it either.
Around August or September, you stop watering. You let the leaves turn yellow and shrivel up. This is the "ugly phase." Stick the pot in a cool, dark basement or a closet for about 8 to 10 weeks. This cold snap triggers the hormone change that tells the bulb, "Hey, it's time to make a flower." If you skip this, you just get leaves. Forever.
Getting the "Double" Look
If you’re bored with the standard four-petal look, you should be looking at doubles. 'Aphrodite' is a stunning white and red amaryllis that looks more like a peony than a lily. It’s packed with layers of petals. However, there’s a trade-off. Double-flowered varieties are heavy. Like, really heavy. You cannot use a cheap plastic pot for these. You need heavy terra cotta or a weighted decorative urn, or the whole thing will do a somersault off your end table the second the blooms open.
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I’ve seen people use "bulb stakes," which are basically green wires with a loop at the top. They work, but they’re kind of ugly. A better trick? Use birch twigs or curly willow. It looks intentional and provides the support those massive red and white heads need.
The Problem with "Waxed" Bulbs
You've seen them. Those bulbs dipped in colorful wax that supposedly don't need water or soil. They’re all over Instagram. Look, they’re cool for a one-off gift, but from a horticultural perspective, they're basically a death sentence for the plant. The wax traps the bulb and prevents it from ever growing roots or recovering energy. Once it’s done blooming, it’s usually spent. If you want a plant that actually grows and becomes part of your garden legacy, buy a naked bulb and a bag of well-draining potting mix.
Soil and Drainage: The Silent Killers
Amaryllis hate wet feet. If the bottom of the bulb sits in water, it will rot. Period. When you plant your red or white amaryllis, you want to leave the top third—sometimes even the top half—of the bulb sticking out of the dirt. It looks weird, like it’s not finished being planted, but that’s how they like it.
I prefer a mix that’s heavy on peat or coco coir but has plenty of perlite for drainage. If you’re using a pot without a hole, you’re playing a dangerous game. At the very least, put a layer of charcoal or large pebbles at the bottom to give the excess water somewhere to go that isn't the bulb's root plate.
Real Talk on Pests
Watch out for the Red Blotch fungus (Stagonospora curtisii). It looks like red streaks or cankers on the leaves and bulb scales. People often mistake it for "just part of being a red amaryllis," but it’s a pathogen. It can deform the flowers and eventually kill the bulb. If you see it, you need to act fast with a fungicide or by stripping away the infected outer layers of the bulb. Also, narcissus bulb flies are a nightmare if you put your plants outside for the summer. They lay eggs in the neck of the bulb, and the larvae eat it from the inside out. If the neck of your bulb feels squishy? It’s probably toast.
Making Your White and Red Amaryllis Last
If you want the flowers to last as long as possible, there is a weird but effective trick: snip off the anthers. Those are the little pollen-covered bits in the center. Once the flower is pollinated (even by its own pollen), it thinks its job is done and starts to wither to focus on seed production. By removing the pollen, you "trick" the flower into staying open longer. Plus, it saves your white amaryllis petals from getting stained by yellow or orange pollen dust.
Moving Forward: Your Amaryllis Game Plan
To get the most out of your bulbs, stop thinking of them as temporary decorations.
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- Check the Weight: When buying, pick the heaviest bulb for its size. Weight equals stored energy and more flowers.
- Temperature Control: Keep them warm (70°F+) to start growth, then move them to a cool spot (60-65°F) once the buds show color to preserve the bloom.
- Post-Bloom Care: Never cut the leaves. They are the engine for next year's show.
- The "August Cutoff": Mark your calendar. Stop watering in late summer to force the dormancy required for those classic winter flowers.
- Variety Matters: Search for 'Picotee' for white with red edges, or 'Minerva' for a classic red-and-white starburst pattern.
Following these steps ensures your white and red amaryllis isn't just a flash in the pan. You're building a collection that gets bigger, stronger, and more impressive every year.