You’re looking at a map of Edinburgh and everything seems close. It’s a tiny city, right? Technically, yes. But if you pick the wrong neighborhood, you’ll spend your entire trip fighting crowds or hiking up hills that make your calves scream.
Honestly, most travel guides just tell you to stay on the Royal Mile and call it a day. That’s a mistake. Unless you enjoy being woken up by bagpipes at 7 AM or paying £8 for a mediocre pint, you need a better plan.
Where to stay in Edinburgh really depends on whether you want "Harry Potter" vibes, high-end shopping, or a place where actual locals live.
The Old Town: History, Cobblestones, and Crowds
This is the heart of it all. If you want to walk out of your hotel and see the Castle immediately, this is your spot. It’s medieval. It’s atmospheric. It’s also incredibly steep.
The Royal Mile is the spine of the Old Town. It runs from the Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Staying here means you’re central, but it’s tourist central. Prices are higher.
Grassmarket sits in the shadow of the Castle. It’s a massive plaza with a dark history—mostly public executions—but now it’s full of pubs. It’s loud. Fun, but loud. If you’re a light sleeper, avoid hotels facing the square.
Victoria Street is arguably the most beautiful street in the city with its colorful storefronts and curved stone. It’s a great base, but again, you’ll be sharing the sidewalk with a thousand TikTokers.
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Expert Tip: Look for "closes." These are tiny, narrow alleyways off the main streets. Many modern apartments like Cheval Old Town Chambers are tucked away here, giving you a quiet escape right in the middle of the chaos.
New Town: Where the Locals (with Money) Hang
Don't let the name fool you. The "New" Town was built in the late 1700s. It’s all grand Georgian terraces and wide, logical streets.
It’s the best place for shopping. You’ve got Princes Street for the big brands and George Street for the fancy stuff. It’s much flatter than the Old Town, which is a blessing if you’re pushing a stroller or hate hills.
Why stay here?
- Waverley Station is right on the border. If you’re arriving by train, you can walk to your hotel in five minutes.
- The Food. The dining scene here is arguably better than the Old Town. Check out The Abbotsford for a traditional pub vibe or any of the spots on Broughton Street.
- The Vibe. It feels more like a functioning city and less like a theme park.
Hotels like The Balmoral (the one with the big clock tower) define this area, but you can find solid mid-range options like the Apex Waterloo Place or the Motel One chain, which is surprisingly stylish for the price.
Stockbridge: The "Village" Life
If you want to feel like you’ve actually moved to Scotland for a week, go to Stockbridge. It’s about a 15-minute walk north of the New Town.
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It’s basically the Brooklyn of Edinburgh. There are independent bookshops, artisanal cheese mongers, and the Stockbridge Market on Sundays which is mandatory.
Circus Lane is nearby. You've probably seen it on Instagram—it's a cobbled mews street with flowers everywhere. It's stunning.
The downside? There aren’t many big hotels. You’re mostly looking at high-end B&Bs or luxury apartments. The Raeburn is the standout here—a boutique hotel that feels very "Old Money Edinburgh."
Leith: The Cool Port
Leith used to be rough. Like, "Trainspotting" rough.
Now? It’s arguably the coolest part of the city. It’s where the Michelin-starred restaurants are. It’s where the Royal Yacht Britannia is docked.
The Shore area is the heart of Leith. It’s right on the water, lined with seafood spots and cocktail bars. It’s got a grit that the rest of the city lacks, and I mean that in a good way.
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Getting there: The tram extension was a game-changer. You can now get from the airport or the city center to Leith in minutes. Staying here is significantly cheaper than the Old Town, and you get much more for your money.
The West End and Haymarket: The Practical Choice
The West End is sophisticated. It’s full of grand Victorian townhouses and artsy boutiques. It’s quieter than the center but still feels very "Edinburgh."
Haymarket is just a bit further west. It’s a major transport hub. If you’re in town for a rugby match at Murrayfield Stadium, this is where you stay.
Why it's a "Cheat Code":
The hotels here, like The Hoxton or voco Edinburgh-Haymarket, are often 20-30% cheaper than their counterparts five minutes down the road. You’re only a short walk or a one-stop tram ride from the center. It’s the smart move for budget-conscious travelers who still want quality.
Avoiding Common Mistakes
- The Airbnb Problem. Edinburgh has a massive housing crisis, and regulations on short-term rentals are getting extremely strict. Make sure any apartment you book is actually legal—otherwise, your host might cancel last minute because they lost their license.
- The Festival Surge. In August, the city population doubles for the Fringe Festival. Prices quadruple. If you aren't coming specifically for the festival, do not come in August.
- The "Everything is Walkable" Myth. It is, but the terrain is brutal. If you stay in the Southside (near the University), it’s a lovely walk through the Meadows, but you’ll be hiking up toward the Royal Mile every morning.
What Really Matters When You Book
Don't just look at the distance to the Castle. Look at the elevation. Use Google Street View. If the street looks like a 45-degree angle, it is.
If you want the quintessential experience, stay in the Old Town but tucked away in a close. If you want luxury and shopping, New Town is king. For the foodie, it has to be Leith. For the "local" feel, choose Stockbridge.
Next Steps for Your Trip
- Check the Edinburgh Tram map to see if your potential hotel is near a stop; it’s the easiest way to get around in 2026.
- Book your "must-eat" restaurants at least 3 weeks out, especially if you're eyeing places in Leith like The Kitchin or Martin Wishart.
- Download the Lothian Buses app; it's the gold standard for navigating the city's extensive bus network if you stay outside the immediate center.