You’re standing in the deli aisle. You see that pale, yellow block riddled with iconic holes and the label says "Swiss." But honestly, that’s a bit like calling a sparkling wine "French" without mentioning Champagne. It’s a massive generalization. If you’ve ever wondered where did swiss cheese come from, the answer isn't just a single point on a map. It’s a 700-year-old saga involving high-altitude survival, tax evasion, and a specific type of bacteria that breathes out gas.
Swiss cheese—or what the rest of the world calls Emmentaler—started in the Emme river valley in Switzerland. This isn't some marketing myth cooked up by a tourism board. It’s history. Specifically, the Canton of Bern.
In the 13th century, farmers in the Alps weren't making cheese for fancy charcuterie boards. They were making it because they had to survive. Cows lived up in the high pastures during the summer, and the milk had to be preserved. You couldn't exactly lug fresh milk down a mountain every day in 1290. So, they turned it into massive, hard wheels. These were built to last.
The Emmental Valley: The True Birthplace
The Emme valley is gorgeous. Rolling green hills, crisp air, and plenty of grass. This is where the original "Swiss cheese" was born.
The farmers here figured out that by heating the curd to a higher temperature than usual, they could create a cheese that was remarkably durable. We’re talking about wheels that could withstand being strapped to the back of a mule for weeks. This was the "Emmentaler AOP."
Why the holes?
Actually, for a long time, the holes were considered a mistake. Medieval cheesemakers hated them. They thought the "eyes" (the technical term) meant the cheese was rotting or that the structural integrity was compromised. In fact, if a wheel had too many holes, it was often sold at a discount. It’s funny how a "defect" became the world's most recognizable branding.
The Science of the "Eyes"
We didn't actually know why the holes formed until relatively recently. For years, scientists thought it was just the Propionibacterium freudenreichii subspecies shermanii. This bacteria eats lactic acid and releases carbon dioxide. Because the cheese has a thick, tough rind, the gas gets trapped. It forms bubbles.
But there was a mystery. In the late 20th century, the holes started disappearing.
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The cheese was becoming "blind" (no holes). This sent the Swiss dairy industry into a mild panic. Researchers at Agroscope, the Swiss government’s agricultural research center, spent years trying to figure out what changed.
The culprit? Cleanliness.
Traditional milking was done in open buckets in barns. Tiny flecks of hay dust would fall into the milk. These microscopic hay particles acted as "seed" points for the CO2 bubbles to form. As milking became more automated and ultra-sanitized in the 1990s, the hay dust disappeared. No dust, no holes. Now, cheesemakers actually have to add a precise amount of hay powder to the milk to ensure those iconic holes show up.
How It Conquered the World (and America)
If the cheese started in a tiny valley in Bern, how did it end up on every ham sandwich in Ohio?
Economics.
Back in the day, the Swiss government taxed cheese based on the number of wheels, not the weight. The farmers, being clever, started making the wheels bigger and bigger to pay less tax. This is why Emmentaler wheels are legendary for their size—often weighing over 200 pounds. These massive, sturdy wheels were perfect for export.
By the 1800s, Swiss immigrants were moving to the United States. They settled in places that looked like home. Wisconsin. Ohio. New York. They brought their copper kettles and their bacteria cultures with them.
The "Baby Swiss" Evolution
In the mid-1960s, a man named Alfred Guggisberg, who had moved from Switzerland to Ohio, realized that Americans found traditional Emmentaler a bit too... intense. It’s nutty, sure, but it can be sharp and a little funky.
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He developed "Baby Swiss."
He used whole milk instead of part-skim and shortened the aging process. The result was a creamier, milder cheese with smaller holes. This is the "Swiss cheese" most Americans recognize today. It’s a distant cousin of the Alpine original, but it’s what solidified the name in the global lexicon.
Why the Quality Varies So Much
If you buy "Swiss cheese" at a supermarket today, you’re likely getting a mass-produced product made in a factory. It’s often "rindless," aged in plastic bags. It’s fine for a burger, but it’s not the real deal.
Real Emmentaler AOP is still made in copper vats. The cows are fed only grass and hay—no silage (fermented grass) allowed. This matters because silage contains different bacteria that can make the cheese taste like dirty feet or, worse, cause the wheels to explode during aging.
The aging process is a delicate dance.
- The cheese sits in a cool cellar for a few weeks.
- It moves to a warm cellar (about 20-24 degrees Celsius) for up to eight weeks. This is where the bacteria wake up and start farting out the CO2 that makes the holes.
- It goes back to a cool cellar to finish ripening.
The texture should be firm but supple. The flavor? It’s not just "cheese." It’s nutty, like roasted hazelnuts, with a hint of sweetness and a finish that reminds you of a hay field.
Common Misconceptions About Swiss Origins
People often think "Swiss" refers to any cheese from Switzerland. Nope. Switzerland produces hundreds of varieties. Gruyère, Sbrinz, Appenzeller—none of these typically have big holes.
Another weird myth is that the holes are carved out. I've actually heard people ask if they use a drill. Obviously not. The holes are a biological byproduct.
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There’s also the "Jarlsberg" confusion. Jarlsberg is Norwegian. It looks like Swiss, it tastes somewhat like Swiss, but it’s a 20th-century creation from the Agricultural University of Norway. It’s a great cheese, but it’s not where Swiss cheese came from.
The Cultural Impact of the Hole
It’s hard to overstate how much this specific cheese has influenced pop culture. From Jerry the mouse hiding in a yellow wedge to the "Swiss cheese model" of accident causation (where layers of defense have holes that occasionally align), the visual of the cheese is everywhere.
But for the Swiss, it’s a matter of national pride and strict regulation. To be called Emmentaler AOP, it must come from a specific region, use specific milk, and follow a specific recipe. Everything else is just "Swiss-style."
Making Sense of Your Next Purchase
When you’re looking for the authentic experience, look for the AOP seal. If the label just says "Swiss," it could be from anywhere—Canada, the US, or even Ireland.
Check the holes. In a high-quality Emmentaler, the eyes should be about the size of a cherry or a walnut. They should be shiny on the inside. If they’re dull, the cheese might be past its prime or made with lower-quality milk.
How to eat it like an expert:
Don't just slap it on a cold sandwich.
Let it reach room temperature.
Pair it with something acidic like sliced apples or a crisp white wine (a Swiss Chasselas if you can find it, or a dry Riesling).
The fat in the cheese needs that acidity to cut through the richness.
Actionable Steps for the Cheese Curious
To truly appreciate the history of where this cheese came from, you need to taste the spectrum. Start by getting a small wedge of "Supermarket Swiss" and a small wedge of "Emmentaler AOP" from a cheesemonger.
Notice the difference in the "eyes." The mass-produced version often has smaller, more uniform holes. The authentic wheel will have varying sizes and a deeper, ivory color. Smell them. The real deal smells like a barn in the best way possible—sweet, grassy, and complex.
Once you’ve tasted the difference, try using the authentic version in a traditional fondue. Mix it 50/50 with Gruyère. The Emmentaler provides the stretch and the mild base, while the Gruyère brings the sharp saltiness. It’s the classic Swiss preparation for a reason.
Finally, check the ingredient list. Authentic Swiss cheese only needs four things: raw milk, water, salt, and starter cultures. If you see "process cheese" or a long list of emulsifiers, you're eating a lab-grown imitation of a 700-year-old masterpiece. Stick to the copper-vat tradition; your palate will thank you.