You’ve probably eaten Parma your whole life without actually going there. It’s the name on the ham packet and the shaker of "parmesan" in your fridge—though, honestly, the real stuff in the city is a world apart. People often treat Parma as a pitstop between Milan and Florence. Big mistake. This city is a slow-burn, sophisticated gem that feels like a private club for people who actually like to eat well and look at art without 500 selfie sticks in their peripheral vision.
If you’re wondering what to do in Parma, the answer isn't just "eat," though that's a massive part of the appeal. It's a place where you can wander from a 12th-century pink marble baptistery to a massive wooden theater that survived WWII bombings, all before your first glass of Lambrusco at lunch.
The Big Hits You Actually Can't Miss
Most travel guides tell you to see the "main sights," and usually, I’d say skip the crowds. But in Parma, the main sights are actually insane. Start at the Piazza Duomo. It’s quiet. No pigeons, no massive tour groups, just those huge river stones that make wearing heels a death wish.
The Parma Cathedral (Duomo) looks like a standard Romanesque church on the outside, but once you walk in, look up. Correggio’s fresco in the dome, Assumption of the Virgin, is a dizzying swirl of limbs and clouds. It was so controversial when it was painted that one contemporary critic called it a "stew of frogs' legs." It’s masterpiece-level weirdness.
Right next door is the Baptistery. It’s octagonal, made of pink Verona marble, and took over a hundred years to finish. The interior is covered in 13th-century frescoes that are so bright they look like they were painted last Tuesday.
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Palazzo della Pilotta and the Ghostly Theater
If you only have time for one "museum" thing, make it the Palazzo della Pilotta. This massive complex was the power seat of the Farnese family. Inside, you’ll find the Teatro Farnese.
It’s an all-wood theater built in 1618. Walking in feels like stepping inside a giant, empty violin. It was almost entirely destroyed in 1944 but was rebuilt using the original wood scraps and techniques. There is a specific smell there—old wood and silence—that you won't find anywhere else in Italy. The €18 ticket also gets you into the National Gallery, where you can see Leonardo da Vinci’s La Scapigliata. It's a tiny, unfinished sketch of a woman with messy hair that is somehow more captivating than the Mona Lisa.
The Food: What to Do in Parma When You’re Hungry
Eating here is a religion. You don't just "grab a sandwich." You engage in a multi-step ritual of cured meats and aged dairy.
- The Cheese Pilgrimage: You have to try Parmigiano Reggiano at different ages. A 12-month-old cheese is creamy and mild. A 36-month-old one is crumbly, intense, and has those little crunchy salt crystals (tyrosine) that make it addictive.
- Prosciutto di Parma: Go to a salumeria (like Sorelle Picchi on Via Farini) and watch them slice it paper-thin. It should be translucent. If it’s thick, they’re doing it wrong.
- Culatello di Zibello: This is the "King of Hams." It’s made from a specific muscle in the pig's hind leg and aged in the humid fog of the Po River valley. It’s funkier and more expensive than Prosciutto, and it's worth every cent.
For a real sit-down meal, head to Trattoria Corrieri. It’s loud, old-fashioned, and serves the best tortelli di erbetta (pasta stuffed with ricotta and Swiss chard) you’ll ever have. They drown them in melted butter and more Parmigiano. It’s not "light," but you didn't come to Emilia-Romagna to go on a diet.
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Hidden Gems and the "Talking Statues"
Parma has some weird, delightful quirks. If you walk through the city, you might notice some statues have QR codes. These are the Talking Statues. You scan them, and your phone rings with a "call" from the historical figure, who tells you their life story. It’s a bit cheesy, sure, but it’s a fun way to learn about the local history while you're walking off that pasta.
If you want a break from the city streets, cross the bridge to Parco Ducale. Locals just call it "The Garden." It’s 200,000 square meters of greenery, statues, and a pond with turtles. It’s where you go for an afternoon aperitivo at the small kiosk near the pond. Order a Spritz Bianco (white wine, soda, and a lemon slice) to feel like a true Parmesan local.
The World’s Largest Bamboo Maze
About 15 minutes outside the city is the Labirinto della Masone. It’s a star-shaped maze made entirely of bamboo. It was built by Franco Maria Ricci, a legendary publisher, because of a promise he made to the writer Jorge Luis Borges. It sounds like something out of a movie. Inside the maze, there’s also a massive art collection and a library. It’s bizarre, beautiful, and very quiet.
2026 Events You Should Know About
If you’re planning a trip for 2026, timing is everything. Parma isn't a 24/7 party city; it has "seasons."
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- Verdi Festival (October 2026): Giuseppe Verdi was born nearby, and Parma claims him as their own. Every October, the Teatro Regio becomes the center of the opera world. Even if you don't like opera, the atmosphere in the city during this month is electric.
- Mercanteinfiera (March and October 2026): This is one of the biggest antique and vintage fairs in Europe. It's held at the Fiere di Parma. You’ll see everything from 17th-century paintings to 1970s Italian designer chairs.
- BBQ Expo (April 2026): A newer addition to the calendar, focusing on outdoor cooking—very appropriate for a city obsessed with meat.
Common Misconceptions About Parma
People think Parma is just a smaller version of Bologna. It’s not. Bologna is "The Fat," but it’s also a gritty, energetic university town. Parma is "The Aristocratic." It’s cleaner, quieter, and arguably a bit more pretentious in a charming, "we know our cheese is better than yours" kind of way.
Another myth? That you need a car. You don't. The historic center is almost entirely pedestrian. You can walk from the train station to the Duomo in 15 minutes. The only time you need wheels is if you’re heading out to the caseifici (cheese factories) or the castles like Torrechiara, which sits on a hill overlooking vineyards and looks like a Disney set.
Practical Steps for Your Trip
Don't just wing it. Parma rewards a little bit of planning.
- Book the Baptistery in advance: In 2026, they are strictly limiting numbers to preserve the frescoes. A combined ticket for the Duomo and Baptistery is around €12 and valid for two days.
- The "Thursday Special": If you happen to be there on a Thursday and can prove you're a resident (or just look very convincing), tickets to many sites are discounted. For everyone else, the first Sunday of the month usually offers free entry to the Pilotta.
- Dinner Reservations: Places like Ristorante Cocchi or Osteria dello Zingaro fill up fast, especially on weekends. Call or email a few days ahead.
- The Train Factor: If you’re coming from Bologna, it’s a 50-minute ride and costs about €8. It’s the easiest day trip ever, though I’d recommend staying at least one night to see the city lit up after the day-trippers leave.
The best thing about Parma is that it doesn't feel like it’s trying too hard. It just exists, beautifully and delicious, waiting for you to notice. Go for the ham, but stay for the weird wooden theaters and the pink marble.
Your next move? Check the 2026 schedule for the Teatro Regio if you're visiting in the fall—tickets for the Verdi Festival go on sale months in advance and vanish instantly. Otherwise, pull up Google Maps and bookmark Gelateria Ciacco for the best toasted bread-flavored gelato you'll ever taste.