You’re driving south. The air gets saltier, the humidity starts to feel like a warm hug, and suddenly the road is just a narrow ribbon of asphalt pinned between two shades of turquoise. Most people hitting the Overseas Highway have one goal: reach the Southernmost Point buoy in Key West, snap a selfie, and drink a margarita.
But honestly? If that’s all you do, you’ve basically missed the soul of the place.
Knowing what to do in Florida Keys isn't about checking off a list of tourist traps. It’s about the weird, slow-motion rhythm of the islands. It’s about finding that one sandbar that disappears at high tide and eating a slice of pie that actually tastes like lime, not green food coloring.
Start Deep: The Underwater World of Key Largo
Key Largo is the first real stop, and it’s basically the scuba diving capital of the world. But don't just go to any reef. Most people pile onto the big cattle boats. Instead, look for smaller charters that head to Molasses Reef.
The visibility here is wild. You’re looking at brain corals the size of Volkswagens and schools of blue tangs that look like someone spilled a bucket of neon paint. If you’re a diver, the Spiegel Grove is the big one—a 510-foot retired Navy ship that was intentionally sunk. It’s haunting. It’s massive. You feel tiny next to it.
For a more "low-key" vibe (pun intended), hit John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park.
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You can rent a kayak and disappear into the mangrove tunnels. It’s silent in there. Just the sound of your paddle and the occasional splash of a mangrove snapper. It’s one of the best ways to see the "nursery" of the ocean without getting your hair wet.
The Islamorada "Sportfishing" Fever
Next up is Islamorada. Locals call it the sportfishing capital, and they aren't kidding. If you want to know what to do in Florida Keys when you’re hungry for adventure, get on a boat.
You don’t have to be a pro.
Even the "party boats" (head boats) are a blast for a half-day. But if you want the real deal, hire a back-country guide to take you into the "flats." You’ll be hunting for bonefish or tarpon in water so shallow you can see their tails poking out.
Why Everyone Goes to Robbie’s (And Why You Should Too)
Look, Robbie’s Marina is touristy. It just is. But there is something undeniably cool about hand-feeding a six-foot tarpon. These things are called "Silver Kings" for a reason. They have massive, bony mouths, and when they jump up to grab a herring from your hand, it’s a rush. Just watch your fingers.
- Pro Tip: After feeding the fish, grab a "Trailer Trash" Bloody Mary at the Hungry Tarpon restaurant right there. It’s a meal in a glass.
Marathon and the Middle Keys Bridge Magic
Marathon is often overlooked as just a "family town," but it’s home to the Turtle Hospital. This isn't a zoo. It’s a literal hospital in an old motel where they fix up sea turtles hit by boats or tangled in line. Taking a tour here actually helps fund their surgery and release programs. It’s heart-wrenching and inspiring all at once.
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Then there’s the Old Seven Mile Bridge.
They recently spent a fortune restoring a 2.2-mile stretch of it for pedestrians and cyclists. You can walk or take the "Blue Tram" out to Pigeon Key.
Pigeon Key is a tiny island under the bridge that looks like a movie set. It’s where the workers lived while building Henry Flagler’s Over-Sea Railroad back in the early 1900s. Standing there, surrounded by water with the modern bridge humming next to you, feels like time travel.
The Weirdness of Big Pine and the Lower Keys
If you keep going south, things get a little stranger. And quieter.
Big Pine Key is home to the National Key Deer Refuge. These deer are tiny—about the size of a large dog—and they only live here. They’re endangered, so please, for the love of everything, don’t feed them. You’ll see them wandering through neighborhoods or near the Blue Hole, an old rock quarry that’s now a freshwater pond filled with alligators and turtles.
Key West: Beyond the Duval Crawl
Finally, you hit the end of the road. Key West.
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Yes, Duval Street is fun for a night. Yes, you should probably see the six-toed cats at the Hemingway House. But if you want to experience the real Key West, you have to get away from the cruise ship crowds.
- Fort Zachary Taylor State Park: This is the best beach on the island, hands down. The water is clearer because it’s a bit deeper, and there’s actual shade under the pine trees.
- The Cemetery: Sounds macabre, but Key West’s humor is on full display here. Look for the headstone that says, "I told you I was sick."
- The Dry Tortugas: This is a commitment. It’s a 70-mile boat or seaplane ride further west into the Gulf. You’ll find Fort Jefferson, a massive brick fortress that was never finished. The snorkeling along the fort’s sea wall is the best you will find in the continental U.S. Period.
What Most People Get Wrong About Keys Food
Everyone wants Key Lime Pie.
If the pie is neon green, walk away. Real Key Lime Pie is a pale yellow/creamy color. Kermit’s is the classic, but Blue Heaven in Bahama Village puts a mountain of meringue on theirs that is basically a work of art.
Also, don't sleep on Cuban food. Since Key West is closer to Havana than Miami, the coffee and sandwiches are legendary. Hit up Cuban Coffee Queen for a "Bucci" (a sweetened espresso shot) and a pressed sandwich to fuel your morning.
Practical Next Steps for Your Trip
Planning what to do in Florida Keys can feel overwhelming because the islands are so spread out. Here is how to actually execute this:
- Rent a car in Miami: Don't fly straight to Key West. You’ll miss the drive, which is half the point.
- Time it right: If you visit in "Season" (January through April), expect traffic and high prices. May and June are the sweet spots—hot, but the water is flat and the crowds are thinner.
- Book the ferry early: If you want to go to the Dry Tortugas, book the Yankee Freedom ferry months in advance. It sells out fast.
- Respect the Reef: Use reef-safe sunscreen. The Florida Barrier Reef is fragile, and the chemicals in standard sunscreen are literally killing the coral.
Go slow. Turn off your GPS once in a while. Pull over at a random roadside stand for a coconut. The Keys aren't a destination you "do"—they're a place you sink into.