It happens in a heartbeat. You’re tossin’ a piece of chicken or maybe they found a stray Lego under the couch, and suddenly, the house goes quiet. Too quiet. Your dog isn’t barking or coughing; they’re pawing at their face, eyes wide, chest heaving with zero sound coming out. Panic sets in fast. I’ve seen it happen to the most prepared owners, and honestly, your adrenaline is going to scream at you to just reach in there. Stop. If you want to know what to do if my dog is choking, you need a plan that doesn't involve getting your fingers bitten off or pushing the object deeper.
Minutes matter.
First, you have to distinguish between a "true" choke and the "reverse sneeze" that scares everyone half to death. If your dog is making a loud, honking sound—kinda like a goose—that’s usually just a respiratory irritation. They can breathe. But if they’re silent, turning blue, or collapsing? That is a legitimate emergency.
The first thirty seconds: Assessing the airway
Don't just dive in. A choking dog is a terrified dog. Even the sweetest Golden Retriever will instinctively chomp down on a hand if they feel like they’re suffocating. You’ve gotta be smart. Open the mouth gently by grasping the upper jaw with one hand and the lower with the other, tilting the head slightly upward to get a look at the throat.
Is there a ball back there? A stick?
If you can see the object and it’s easy to grab, go for it. But—and this is a big "but"—if it’s something slippery or round like a marble or a small ball, poking at it with your fingers might just shove it into the windpipe for good. Dr. Justine Lee, a well-known veterinary emergency specialist, often warns that "blind finger sweeps" are a recipe for disaster. If you can't hook it with a finger and pull it out in one motion, move to the next step immediately.
Why you shouldn't use tweezers
It seems logical to grab a tool. It's not. Metal tweezers or pliers can easily puncture the soft tissue of the throat or the esophagus. The mouth is likely slippery with saliva (or blood if the object is sharp), and one slip could cause permanent damage. Stick to your hands or move straight to physical maneuvers.
The Modified Heimlich Maneuver for Dogs
You've probably seen people do this to humans in movies. For dogs, the mechanics are similar but the positioning changes based on whether you're dealing with a Great Dane or a tiny Yorkie.
For a large dog, you want them on their hind legs while you wrap your arms around their abdomen from behind, just like a human. Find the soft spot right below the ribs—the upper abdomen. Make a fist, cover it with your other hand, and give five sharp, upward thrusts. You’re trying to use the air left in the lungs to "pop" the object out like a cork from a bottle.
Small dogs are different.
Honestly, it’s easier to pick them up. Hold a small dog against your chest, head down, and apply the same pressure to the abdomen, but be way more gentle. You can easily break ribs or rupture a spleen if you use "big dog" force on a five-pound Chihuahua.
The "Wheelbarrow" and gravity tricks
Sometimes the Heimlich doesn't work because the object is wedged at a weird angle. If you have a large dog and can't lift them, try the wheelbarrow method. Grab their back legs and lift them high into the air, keeping their front paws on the ground. This uses gravity to help shift the object forward. While they’re tilted, someone else (if you have help) can give firm thumps between the shoulder blades.
Think of it like a ketchup bottle. Sometimes you have to hit it from the bottom while it’s upside down to get anything to move.
- For large breeds: Five quick hits between the shoulder blades with the palm of your hand.
- For small breeds: Lay them across your lap with the head lower than the tail and use much lighter taps.
I remember a case involving a Boxer who swallowed a whole rawhide chew. The owners couldn't get it out with the Heimlich, but lifting the back legs and giving a massive "thump" to the chest actually dislodged it just enough for the dog to cough the rest of the way.
What if they lose consciousness?
This is the nightmare scenario, but you can’t quit yet. If the dog faints, their throat muscles might actually relax a bit, which could make it easier to remove the object.
- Open the mouth wide.
- Pull the tongue forward.
- Look again. If the object has shifted, pull it out.
- If the airway is still blocked, you may have to start CPR.
Medical experts at the RECOVER Initiative (the folks who set the standards for vet CPR) suggest that even if you can’t clear the airway, chest compressions might create enough pressure to force the object out. It also keeps blood moving to the brain. You’re looking for about 100 to 120 compressions per minute. Basically, "Stayin' Alive" by the Bee Gees. It sounds cliché, but the rhythm works.
Common culprits: What most people get wrong
We talk a lot about bones and balls, but some of the most dangerous choking hazards are the ones we think are "safe."
Take tennis balls, for example. When they get soaked in slobber, they become incredibly slippery. If a dog catches one at the wrong angle, it can slide right back into the glottis. Many vets recommend using specifically designed "hollow" balls or balls with holes in them (like the Chuckit! Breathe Right line) because if they do get stuck, air can still pass through the center of the ball.
Then there's the "stick" issue. Dogs love fetching sticks. But sticks splinter. A splintered piece of wood wedged across the roof of the mouth or at the back of the throat isn't just a choking hazard; it's a piercing hazard.
The hidden danger of "Gulping"
Some dogs are "gulpers." They don't chew; they inhale. If you have a dog that eats like they’re in a competitive eating contest, they are at a much higher risk for choking on dry kibble or large treats. Using a slow-feeder bowl or putting a large, heavy rock (too big to swallow!) in the middle of their bowl can force them to slow down.
Post-choke care: You aren't done yet
Let’s say the object pops out. The dog sneezes, gulps some air, and starts wagging their tail. You’re relieved. You want to go pour a drink and take a nap.
Don't.
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Even if the dog seems fine, you need to get to an emergency vet. Why? Because the trauma of choking—and your efforts to save them—can cause internal issues you can't see.
- Aspiration pneumonia: If they inhaled any saliva or bits of the object, it can cause a nasty lung infection.
- Laryngeal edema: The throat can swell up after the object is gone, closing the airway again an hour later.
- Internal bruising: Those Heimlich thrusts are violent. You might have cracked a rib or bruised an organ.
A quick X-ray and a physical exam are non-negotiable.
Actionable steps for right now
You shouldn't wait for an emergency to learn these skills. You’ve read the theory, now do the prep.
- Audit the toy box: Throw away any balls that are small enough to fit past your dog's back teeth. If you have a multi-dog household, size the toys for the biggest dog.
- Locate your nearest 24/7 ER: Don't assume your regular vet is open. Keep the address of the nearest emergency clinic on your fridge or saved in your phone.
- Learn the "External Extraction Technique": Research the "J-maneuver." It’s a specific way to push a stuck ball out by applying pressure from the outside of the neck, pushing upward through the soft tissue. It’s been credited with saving dogs when the Heimlich failed.
- Keep a pair of blunt-nosed scissors handy: If your dog chokes on a leash, collar, or piece of string, you need to be able to cut it off without cutting the dog.
Choking is violent and fast. But knowing what to do if my dog is choking before it happens gives you the "muscle memory" to stay calm. Most of the time, your dog relies on your hands and your head to save their life. Keep both ready.