You’re standing in the beauty supply aisle, staring at a wall of vibrant bundles. Some are $5. Others are $50. They all look like hair, but they definitely don’t feel the same. Most people just call it "synthetic," but that’s like calling every car a "vehicle." It doesn't really tell you if you're getting a Ferrari or a golf cart. Honestly, if you've ever wondered what is fake hair made of, the answer is a weird, fascinating mix of high-end chemistry and coal-based plastics.
It’s plastic. Mostly. But not the kind used for soda bottles.
The Plastic DNA: What’s Actually in the Fiber?
When we talk about synthetic hair, we’re usually talking about two specific types of plastic: Toyokalon and Kanekalon. These aren't just brand names; they are the industry standards for what fake hair is made of. Kanekalon is a "modacrylic" fiber. To make it, scientists take chemicals like acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride, melt them down, and squeeze them through a tiny showerhead-like device called a spinneret.
The result? Microscopic threads that mimic the diameter of a human hair.
Toyokalon is slightly different. It’s a PVC-based fiber. It’s softer than Kanekalon but tangles if you even look at it wrong. If you’ve ever bought a cheap "party city" wig that turned into a bird’s nest after twenty minutes, you were likely dealing with low-grade PVC or polyester fibers. High-quality synthetic hair feels "real" because it’s treated with silicone. This coating allows the strands to slide past each other without friction. Once that silicone wears off—which it always does—the plastic underneath starts to mat.
Why some fake hair melts (and others don't)
Heat resistance is the biggest differentiator in the market. Standard modacrylics have a low melting point. If you hit them with a 400-degree curling iron, they won't curl; they'll literally liquefy and fuse into a solid plastic blob.
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However, "heat-friendly" or "heat-defiant" (HD) fibers use a polyester base. These are engineered to withstand temperatures up to about 350°F. But there’s a catch. Heat-friendly synthetic hair has a shorter lifespan than the cheap stuff. The heat eventually changes the texture of the plastic, making it feel "crunchy" or "velcro-like" over time. It’s a trade-off. You get the styling versatility, but you lose the longevity.
The Chemistry of Color and Texture
Human hair has a cuticle. It’s porous. It reflects light in a specific, slightly dull way. Synthetic fibers, being plastic, are naturally very shiny. This is the "wiggy" look everyone tries to avoid. To fix this, manufacturers add delustrants like titanium dioxide to the plastic mix before it’s even spun into thread.
This creates a matte finish that mimics human hair.
Then there's the color. Unlike human hair, which is dyed on the surface, synthetic hair is "solution-dyed." The pigment is mixed into the liquid plastic before it hardens. This is why you can’t dye a synthetic wig with regular hair color. The color is literally part of the fiber's molecular structure. If you want to change it, you have to use alcohol-based inks or fabric dyes that can actually "stain" the plastic surface.
The "Protein" Marketing Myth
You might see some packages claiming the hair is "infused with protein" or "collagen-based."
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Take that with a grain of salt.
While there are some fibers like Cyberhair or Vitalhair that incorporate small amounts of animal protein (usually waste from the leather industry) to help with moisture retention, 99% of what you see on the shelf is pure polymer. The "protein" label is often just a marketing tactic to make the product sound more "natural." In reality, these fibers are still synthetic at their core, just with a slightly more sophisticated surface treatment.
Understanding the "Yaki" Texture
If you’ve ever looked at hair meant for braiding, you’ve seen the term "Yaki." This isn't a material; it’s a process. To create Yaki texture, the smooth plastic fibers are passed through heated rollers that "crimp" the hair, giving it the slightly kinky appearance of chemically relaxed Afro-textured hair.
It’s all about surface area.
Smooth fibers reflect light in long lines. Crimped fibers scatter light. This makes the hair look fuller and more realistic for specific styles. When you're looking at what is fake hair made of in the context of braiding hair, you're almost always looking at 100% Kanekalon because it has a "grip" that prevents braids from sliding out—a property smooth polyester fibers just don't have.
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Safety, Allergies, and the "Vinegar Rinse"
Here is the part most people miss: the chemicals used to keep synthetic hair flame-retardant. By law, most synthetic wigs must be treated so they don't turn into a torch if you stand too close to a candle. The chemical often used is an alkaline base.
For many people, this causes "braid itch" or contact dermatitis.
If your scalp feels like it's on fire after getting extensions, it’s not the plastic; it’s the coating. This is why many experienced stylists recommend a vinegar soak. Acetic acid in the vinegar neutralizes the alkaline coating, stripping away the irritant while leaving the plastic fiber intact. It’s a simple chemistry fix for a frustrating biological reaction.
How to Tell What You're Actually Buying
If you're unsure if your "human hair" blend is actually secretly synthetic, there is one foolproof way to check. The burn test. It’s exactly what it sounds like.
- Human Hair: Burns slowly, smells like sulfur (burning feathers), and turns into a fine black ash that crumbles when you touch it.
- Synthetic Hair: Melts quickly, smells like sweet chemicals or burning plastic, and hardens into a solid, black plastic bead that you can't crush.
You can't fake chemistry.
Practical Steps for Managing Synthetic Hair
Knowing the material helps you take care of it. Since synthetic hair is basically a specialized textile, you should treat it more like a delicate polyester blouse than actual hair.
- Stop using human hair products. Shampoos designed for humans are meant to strip oils. Synthetic hair doesn't have oils; it has silicone coatings. Use "wig shampoos" or even a tiny bit of dish soap or Woolite.
- Cold water only. Heat is the enemy of plastic memory. Unless it’s specifically labeled as heat-friendly, washing a synthetic wig in hot water can permanently straighten the curls or frizz the ends.
- Steam is your best friend. If a synthetic wig gets frizzy at the ends (called "friction frizz"), don't use a flat iron. Use a handheld garment steamer and a comb. The gentle heat of the steam softens the plastic just enough to Reshape it without melting the fibers.
- Check the label for "Modacrylic." If you want the most realistic movement, look for modacrylic-heavy blends. If you want something that stays styled for months regardless of the weather, go for polyester-based fibers.
The technology behind fake hair has moved way beyond the shiny, plastic-y looks of the 70s. We're now at a point where even professionals struggle to tell the difference between high-end "biopolymers" and actual human hair from a distance. Just remember: at the end of the day, you're wearing a very sophisticated form of plastic. Treat it like that, and it’ll last twice as long.