You’re staring at a pair of white plastic sticks and wondering why they won't charge on your new MagSafe puck. Or maybe you're trying to sell them on eBay and realized you have no clue if they’re the "good" ones or the "old" ones. Honestly, Apple doesn't make it easy. They all look like variations of a tiny hair dryer. If you are asking what generation are my AirPods, you aren't alone. Thousands of people realize every day that the box is long gone, the receipt is buried in a 2021 email thread, and the hardware itself is annoyingly vague.
Identifying these things is about more than just curiosity. It’s about firmware updates, battery replacement eligibility, and knowing if that cool new Transparency mode feature will actually work for you. Let’s get into the weeds.
The Serial Number Method: The Only Way to Be 100% Sure
Don't guess based on the stem length. People get that wrong constantly because the AirPods Pro and the AirPods 3 look strikingly similar to the untrained eye. The most "pro" way to do this is via the model number.
If your buds are currently paired to your iPhone, just go to Settings, hit Bluetooth, and tap the little "i" icon next to your AirPods. Scroll down. You’ll see a model number starting with the letter A. This is the holy grail of identification. If they aren't paired, grab a magnifying glass. Apple prints the model number in microscopic text on the underside of each individual earbud. It’s tiny. Like, "I need to go outside into direct sunlight to read this" tiny.
Here is the breakdown of what those A-numbers actually mean in the real world:
- A1523 or A1722: These are the OG. Gen 1. Released in 2016. If you still have these and they still hold a charge for more than ten minutes, you’ve basically won the battery lottery.
- A2032 or A2031: AirPods 2nd Generation. These look identical to the first ones but have the H1 chip.
- A2564 or A2565: AirPods 3rd Generation. These have the shorter stems and no silicone tips.
- A2084 or A2083: The original AirPods Pro (1st Gen).
- A2931, A2699, or A2698: AirPods Pro 2nd Generation (Lightning or USB-C).
- A3047, A3048, or A3049: The brand new AirPods 4.
Visual Cues That Actually Matter
Let’s say you can't read the text because it’s scuffed or you're looking at a photo. You can still play detective.
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The first two generations have long, thin stems. They look like the old wired EarPods with the cords chopped off. But there is a massive tell between Gen 1 and Gen 2: the LED light on the charging case. On the original Gen 1 case, the light is inside the lid. You have to pop it open to see if they're charging. With the Gen 2 (if you bought the wireless charging version), that LED is on the front of the case.
However, be careful. Apple sold the Gen 2 buds with a non-wireless case too. So, the light being inside doesn't automatically mean it's Gen 1. The real kicker is the "Set" button on the back. On Gen 1, it's lower down. On Gen 2, it's moved up toward the middle. It’s a subtle shift, but once you see it, you can't unsee it.
The AirPods Pro Confusion
The Pro models are where things get messy. The first and second-gen Pro buds look identical. Same silicone tips. Same squished case.
But look at the bottom of the case. Does it have a tiny metal loop for a lanyard? Does it have speaker holes? If yes, you’ve got the Pro 2. If the bottom is smooth with just a charging port, it’s the Pro 1. Also, the Pro 2 allows you to swipe up and down on the stem to change volume. The Pro 1 doesn't. Try it. If you’re aggressively stroking your earbud and the music isn't getting louder, you’ve got the older model.
Why Does the Generation Even Matter?
Features. Pure and simple.
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The jump from Gen 1 to Gen 2 brought "Hey Siri" support. Before that, you had to double-tap the side like a secret agent just to change a song. Gen 3 brought Spatial Audio, which is basically Apple’s way of making it sound like a concert is happening inside your skull. It’s cool, but it eats battery.
Then there is the chip. The H1 chip in the newer models connects faster. If you’ve ever sat there for 30 seconds waiting for your phone to realize you put your headphones in, you’re likely on older hardware. The newer H2 chip in the Pro 2 and AirPods 4 handles noise cancellation much better. It’s a night and day difference in a noisy coffee shop or on a plane.
The Case is a Liar
Here is a mistake I see constantly: people assume the case generation matches the bud generation. It doesn't have to.
You can put Gen 1 buds in a Gen 2 case. You can put Lightning-charging Pro buds in a MagSafe Pro case. The case is just a battery with a brain. If you're buying used, always check the model number on the buds themselves, not just the case. Scammers love to swap old buds into a newer case to drive up the price. Don't fall for it.
AirPods 4 and the New Landscape
In late 2024 and heading into 2025, the AirPods 4 changed the game by splitting into two versions. One has Active Noise Cancellation (ANC) and one doesn't. They look almost the same. The ANC version has a case with a speaker for "Find My" tracking. The non-ANC version doesn't.
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If you just bought a pair and you're wondering what generation are my AirPods because they don't seem to block out the bus engine, you might have the standard AirPods 4 rather than the ANC version. It's a confusing product lineup, honestly. Apple usually prizes simplicity, but right now, the AirPods family tree looks like a bush.
Checking via Mac or iPad
If your iPhone is dead, you can use a Mac. Click the Apple menu > System Settings > Bluetooth. Click the "i" next to your device. It will list the model name right there. macOS is usually a bit more descriptive than iOS; it might actually say "AirPods Pro (2nd Generation)" instead of just a cryptic code.
Battery Longevity and the "Vintage" Problem
Let's be real about the older generations. Lithium-ion batteries in these tiny devices have a shelf life. If you have Gen 1 or Gen 2 AirPods from 2019 or earlier, the chemical aging is likely hitting a wall. You might get 45 minutes of talk time instead of the advertised 5 hours.
Apple doesn't "repair" AirPods. They replace them. If you realize you have Gen 1 buds, it’s probably not worth paying for a battery service. You’re better off recycling them and grabbing a newer pair. The tech has moved so far forward—especially in terms of microphone quality—that the old ones feel like relics.
Summary Checklist for Identification
- Check Settings: Go to Bluetooth > [Your AirPods] > Model Number.
- Look for the Lanyard Loop: If it’s there, it’s a Pro 2.
- Check the Tips: Silicone tips mean Pro. Hard plastic means Gen 1, 2, 3, or 4.
- Measure the Stem: Long stems are Gen 1 or 2. Short stems are Gen 3, 4, or Pro.
- Find the LED: On the front of the case usually means it supports wireless charging (Gen 2, 3, 4, or Pro).
What to Do Next
Now that you know what you’re holding, check your warranty. Even if you think they’re old, Apple sometimes has service programs for specific generations. For example, there was a well-known program for AirPods Pro manufactured before October 2020 that experienced "crackling" sounds. If yours match that generation and have that issue, you might be eligible for a swap.
Also, update your firmware. Leave your AirPods in the case, plug the case into power, and keep it near your iPhone. There is no "update" button; it just happens. Knowing your generation helps you know which features—like Adaptive Audio or Conversation Awareness—you should be looking for in your settings menu. If you have the Pro 2, go find the "Loud Sound Reduction" toggle. It's a lifesaver for your hearing.
If you've discovered you have a much older model than you thought, consider the trade-in value before the battery dies completely. Retailers like Best Buy or specialized sites will often give you a few bucks toward the next generation, but only if they still power on.