Perms are back. Seriously. If you’ve spent any time on TikTok or walked past a high school lately, you’ve seen the "broccoli cut" or those soft, beachy waves that definitely didn't come from a curling iron. But despite the massive resurgence, there is still a ton of confusion about what do perms do to your hair on a structural level. Most people think it’s just about adding curl. It isn't. It’s actually a controlled chemical injury that forces your hair to forget its own DNA and start over.
Think of your hair like a ladder. When you get a perm, you aren't just painting the ladder or adding a decoration. You are literally sawing the rungs in half, moving them around, and gluing them back together in a different spot. It’s intense. It’s science. And if you don't respect the process, it’s a recipe for hair that feels like burnt doll hair.
The Chemistry of Disruption
To understand the change, we have to talk about disulfide bonds. These are the "tough guys" of your hair structure. While hydrogen bonds (the ones you break with a blow-dryer or flat iron) snap and reform with water, disulfide bonds are permanent. Or at least, they’re supposed to be.
When a stylist applies a perming solution—usually containing ammonium thioglycolate—the pH of your hair skyrockets. This makes the hair shaft swell. The cuticle, which usually sits flat like shingles on a roof, pops open. The chemicals rush in and start breaking those disulfide bonds. At this specific moment in the chair, your hair is at its most vulnerable. It is literally "mushy." If you were to pull on it, it would stretch like old bubblegum.
Then comes the physical part. Your hair is wrapped around rods. The size of the rod determines the size of the future curl. Once the hair is reshaped, a neutralizer (usually hydrogen peroxide) is applied. This stops the breaking process and "re-bonds" the hair in its new, curly shape. It’s a total structural overhaul.
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Why Your Hair Feels Different Afterwards
It’s never quite the same. Even a "perfect" perm leaves the hair slightly more porous than it was before. Because the cuticle was forced open, it never quite snaps back 100% flat. This is why permed hair often looks matte or dull instead of shiny. Light doesn't bounce off a rough surface the same way it does a smooth one.
You’ll also notice a change in how your hair holds moisture. It’s thirsty. Because the internal structure has been messed with, water enters the hair easily but leaves just as fast. This is the paradox of what perms do to your hair: it looks bouncy and full, but it feels drier and more fragile to the touch.
The "Scent" of Science
Let’s be honest: perms smell like rotten eggs. That’s the sulfur. When those disulfide bonds break, they release sulfur molecules. Even after the neutralizer is applied and you’ve washed your hair three times, that scent can linger for weeks, especially when your hair gets wet. It’s a physical reminder that you’ve fundamentally changed the chemistry of your head.
Modern Perms vs. The 1980s Nightmare
We’ve moved past the "poodle" look. Back in the day, alkaline perms were the standard. They had a very high pH (around 9.0 to 9.6) and were incredibly harsh. They created those tight, crispy curls that were popular when hairspray was used like oxygen.
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Today, stylists often use acid perms. These have a lower pH (usually between 4.5 and 7.0) and require heat to activate. They are way gentler. Instead of a crunchy ringlet, you get a soft, rolling wave. This is what you're seeing in the "digital perm" trends coming out of Korea and Japan. It’s a more sophisticated way of answering the question of what a perm does—it provides texture without the total destruction of the hair fiber.
However, "gentle" is a relative term. It’s still a chemical process. If you have heavily bleached hair or "high-lift" blonde highlights, a perm can still melt your hair. Professional stylists like Brad Mondo often warn that putting perm solution over bleached hair is like putting a match to a gasoline-soaked rag. The bonds are already too weak to survive another round of breaking and rebuilding.
The Maintenance Reality Check
You can’t just "set it and forget it." A perm changes your lifestyle. You've probably heard the Legally Blonde rule: don't wash your hair for 48 hours. This is actually true. The neutralizer needs time to fully finish the oxidation process. If you hit it with shampoo too early, you'll relax the curls right out, and you’ll have spent $200 for a weird, frizzy mess.
- Sulfate-free is mandatory. Sulfates are too harsh for the compromised cuticle of permed hair.
- Protein balance. Since the internal "ladder" of your hair is scarred, you need protein treatments to fill in the gaps.
- Heat is the enemy. Your hair is already "pre-damaged." Using a 450-degree flat iron on a perm is asking for breakage.
Longevity and the Grow-Out Phase
Perms don't "wash out." They are permanent, as the name suggests. What actually happens is that your roots grow in straight. After about three to four months, you’ll have a flat top and curly ends. This is the awkward "shelf" phase.
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Most people think they can just get another perm immediately. Be careful. "Re-perming" already permed hair is tricky. If the stylist overlaps the solution onto the previously treated hair, it can lead to "chemical haircutting"—where the hair simply snaps off at the junction. Usually, it’s better to perm only the new growth or wait until the old perm is mostly trimmed away.
The Surprising Benefits
It isn't all gloom and doom. For people with pin-straight, oily hair, a perm can be a lifesaver. What a perm does to this hair type is actually quite helpful: it adds "grip." It creates volume that allows you to go three days without washing instead of twelve hours. It provides a base for styling that simply wasn't there before.
Also, for the "wash and go" crowd, a modern wave perm saves hours of styling time. You trade the health of your hair for the convenience of your morning. For many, that’s a fair trade.
Actionable Steps for Your Hair Journey
If you are seriously considering a perm, don't just walk into a random salon. The results are too permanent for a gamble.
- The Strand Test is Non-Negotiable. Ask your stylist to test a small, hidden section of hair first. If it breaks or turns to mush, you have your answer.
- Assess Your Color History. If you have used box dye or bleach in the last six months, tell your stylist. Metallic salts in some box dyes can react violently with perm solution, literally smoking on your head.
- Invest in a Diffuser. You can't blow-dry permed hair like normal hair. You need a diffuser attachment to disperse the air so you don't blow the curl pattern into a frizz cloud.
- Moisture, Moisture, Moisture. Buy a deep conditioning mask before you even get the perm. You will need it from day three onwards. Use products with ingredients like ceramides or keratin to help reinforce the cuticle.
- Microfiber Only. Throw away your terry cloth towels. The tiny loops in regular towels snag on the raised cuticles of permed hair, causing instant frizz. Use a microfiber towel or an old cotton T-shirt to "scrunch" the water out instead of rubbing.
A perm is a commitment to a new hair identity. It changes the way your hair reflects light, how it absorbs water, and how it reacts to the environment. By understanding the structural "sawing and gluing" happening inside your hair strands, you can manage the damage and enjoy the volume without the heartbreak of a chemical disaster.