You've probably seen the videos of "Sartorialist" style street snaps from Chengdu or Shanghai. Tall, impossibly chic people walking in slow motion through Taikoo Li, wearing architectural blazers and $1,200 sneakers. It’s mesmerizing. But it also leaves a lot of people wondering: is that actually what do chinese wear on a Tuesday morning? Or is it all just a high-fashion performance for the camera?
Honestly, the answer is a bit of both. China is huge. Like, mind-bogglingly big. Trying to pin down a single "national outfit" is basically impossible because the wardrobe of a Gen Z tech worker in Shenzhen looks nothing like what a grandmother in rural Gansu pulls out of her closet.
If you walk through a Tier 1 city like Beijing today, you aren't seeing silk robes. You’re seeing North Face puffers, Lululemon leggings, and locally grown "Guochao" brands that are currently eating Nike’s lunch.
The Death of the Mao Suit and the Rise of "Guochao"
For decades, Westerners associated Chinese clothing with the "Mao Suit" (known locally as the Zhongshan suit). It was functional. It was gray. It was everywhere. But if you wore one today in Shanghai, people would think you’re either filming a historical drama or heading to a very specific type of government funeral. It’s just not a thing anymore for the average person.
Instead, we have Guochao.
This is the "national tide" movement. It’s a massive shift where young Chinese consumers have ditched their obsession with Western heritage brands like Burberry or LV in favor of brands that mix Chinese aesthetics with modern streetwear. Think hoodies with intricate embroidery from the Tang Dynasty or sneakers that use color palettes inspired by the Forbidden City. Brands like Li-Ning and Anta have moved from being "cheap alternatives" to being status symbols.
People are proud of "Made in China" now. It’s a huge psychological shift.
Why the Hanfu Movement is More Than Just Cosplay
You can’t talk about what people wear in China without mentioning the Hanfu craze. If you visit a scenic spot like the West Lake in Hangzhou or the ancient city of Xi'an, you will see thousands of young people dressed in flowing, multi-layered silk robes with elaborate hairpins.
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This isn't a costume party.
It’s a billion-dollar industry. Research from platforms like iMedia Research shows that the Hanfu market has exploded, with millions of "Hanfu enthusiasts" wearing these traditional styles to work, school, or just out for coffee. It’s a way for the younger generation to reclaim a cultural identity that felt lost during the rapid modernization of the late 20th century. Most of these outfits aren't authentic "ancient" clothes; they are modern interpretations. They use zippers. They have pockets for iPhones.
Practicality Rules the Streets
Step away from the influencers and look at the "laobaixing"—the ordinary people.
In the winter, northern China gets brutally cold. Fashion takes a backseat to survival. You’ll see the "curtain coat"—those heavy, green, padded military-style overcoats. They are cheap, they weigh about ten pounds, and they are warmer than any designer parka.
Then there’s the "facekini."
If you go to the beaches in Qingdao, you’ll see older women wearing full-head masks with holes for the eyes and mouth. To a Westerner, it looks like a bank heist is about to happen at the shoreline. In reality, it’s about skin protection. In China, pale skin is historically associated with wealth (meaning you don't have to work in the fields), so people go to extreme lengths to avoid a tan. This extends to the "UV jacket"—those thin, hooded windbreakers people wear even when it’s 95 degrees out.
The Workplace Uniform
Business casual in China is... casual.
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Unless you are a high-level banker or a lawyer in a top-tier firm, you probably aren't wearing a full suit. In the tech hubs of Zhongguancun (Beijing's Silicon Valley), the "uniform" is remarkably similar to Palo Alto.
- Checked button-down shirts.
- Dark denim or chinos.
- Technical backpacks from brands like Xiaomi.
- The ubiquitous white leather sneaker.
It's about efficiency. When you're working "996" (9 am to 9 pm, 6 days a week), you don't have time for cufflinks.
Gender Nuances and the "BM Style"
Female fashion in China is currently dominated by a few distinct subcultures. One of the most controversial in recent years was the "BM style," named after the brand Brandy Melville. It promoted a very specific, "short, tight, and tiny" look that sparked massive debates about body image on platforms like Xiaohongshu (China’s version of Instagram).
But there’s also the "New Chinese Style" (Xin Zhong Shi).
This is much more sophisticated. It takes elements like the Qipao (Cheongsam) collar or frog buttons and applies them to oversized linen shirts or minimalist dresses. It’s understated. It says, "I’m successful, I’m cultured, and I don't need a giant Gucci logo to prove it."
And let’s talk about the "Mizhi" style—the "refined" look often seen on young women in urban centers. It’s a mix of soft textures, pearls, and very specific "water-glow" makeup. It’s polished. Almost too polished.
Regional Differences Are Huge
What do Chinese wear in the South? In Guangdong, where it’s humid and hot basically forever, the vibe is much more relaxed. You’ll see a lot of high-end flip-flops (yes, that’s a thing) and light breathable fabrics. There’s a "rich uncle" look in the south: a polo shirt (usually with the collar popped), expensive shorts, and a jade bracelet.
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In the North? It’s all about layers and heavy textures.
And then there are the ethnic minorities. China has 56 recognized ethnic groups. While the Han majority makes up most of the population, if you go to Yunnan or Guizhou, you’ll see spectacular silver headdresses and batik fabrics. These aren't just for tourists; many people, especially the older generation, wear elements of these traditional clothes daily.
Luxury and the "Logo" Fatigue
There was a time, maybe ten years ago, when the goal was to look like a walking billboard for Louis Vuitton. That's changing.
Upper-middle-class Chinese consumers are moving toward "quiet luxury." They want high-quality cashmere and impeccable tailoring, but they don't necessarily want the logo. They are looking for brands that signify "old money" vibes, even if the money is relatively new.
However, "Flex Culture" is still alive in the nightlife scene. Go to a club in Chengdu, and you’ll see more Chrome Hearts and Off-White than you would in Los Angeles. For the "Fu'erda"—the second-generation wealthy—clothing is a high-stakes game of signaling.
What You Should Know Before You Go
If you’re traveling to China and wondering what to pack, the best advice is to aim for "modest trendy."
- Comfort over everything: You will walk a lot. Even if you're dressed up, wear shoes that can handle 20,000 steps.
- Modesty matters: While crop tops are fine in big cities, wearing super-revealing clothing can still draw unwanted stares in more conservative areas.
- The Umbrella is an accessory: People carry umbrellas for the sun just as much as for the rain. If you want to blend in, get a high-quality UV-rated folding umbrella.
- Check the apps: If you want to see what’s actually trending this week, download Xiaohongshu. It’s the undisputed bible of Chinese fashion.
The reality of what people wear in China is that it’s a society in transition. You have people wearing 2,000-year-old style robes standing in line for bubble tea next to someone in a $400 Yeezy hoodie, while an older man nearby is perfectly content in his $5 cotton "grandpa" undershirt. It’s messy, it’s vibrant, and it’s changing faster than the fashion cycles in Paris or New York can keep up with.
Don't expect a monolith. Expect a kaleidoscope.
Actionable Insights for Navigating Chinese Fashion
- For Travelers: Pack layers. China’s climate varies wildly. A light Uniqlo-style down vest is a universal piece that works from Harbin to Kunming.
- For Fashion Enthusiasts: Follow "China Street Photography" accounts on TikTok or Douyin, but remember these are often staged. For real-world trends, look at what people are wearing in the backgrounds of vlogs.
- For Buyers: Look into "Guochao" brands like Bosideng (for high-end down jackets) or Beaster (for streetwear). The quality-to-price ratio is often much better than Western equivalents.
- Cultural Note: If you see someone wearing pajamas in the grocery store in a city like Shanghai, don't be shocked. Historically, silk or nice pajamas were a status symbol—a sign that you didn't have to work manual labor. While the government has tried to crack down on "pajamas in public," the habit persists among the older generation.