Walk in. Look up. It’s quiet.
I mean really quiet, the kind of silence that feels heavy in your ears until a fantail bird chirps or the wind hits the canopy 70 meters above your head. Most people heading to Rotorua are there for the bubbling mud or the smell of sulfur that hits you like a wall when you drive into town, but the redwood forest New Zealand has tucked away in the Whakarewarewa State Forest is the real soul of the place. It’s weird, actually. You’re in the middle of the North Island, thousands of miles from California, yet you’re surrounded by Sequoia sempervirens.
These trees aren't supposed to be here. Not naturally, anyway.
The story starts back in 1899. The New Zealand government was panicking because they’d cleared so much native bush for farming and timber that they realized they were going to run out of wood. They started a massive trial to see which exotic trees would grow best in the volcanic soil of the central North Island. They planted everything: European larch, Australian eucalyptus, Tasmanian blackwood, and of course, the California Coast Redwood.
Most of the other species struggled. The redwoods? They went absolutely nuclear.
Because of the high rainfall and the thermal warmth in the ground, these trees grow three times faster in Rotorua than they do in their native home in the United States. It's a biological anomaly. While a redwood in California might take centuries to reach a certain girth, the New Zealand versions are hitting those milestones in decades. You can literally see the power of the soil when you stand at the base of these giants.
The Mistakes Everyone Makes Visiting the Redwoods
Honestly, most tourists just pull into the main car park on Long Mile Road, walk the 30-minute Memorial Grove track, take a selfie, and leave. Big mistake.
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If you want the actual experience, you have to get away from the visitor center. The Whakarewarewa Forest is over 5,600 hectares. That’s massive. Most of the "Redwoods" area is actually a mix of Douglas fir, eucalyptus, and native ferns that look like something straight out of Jurassic Park. If you stay on the flat, easy paths, you’re missing the elevation that gives you a view of Lake Rotorua and the steaming vents of the Geothermal valley.
Another thing: people worry about the rain. Don't.
Rain is arguably the best time to be in the redwood forest New Zealand offers. The canopy is so thick that it takes a literal downpour for you to even feel a drop on the forest floor. The moisture turns the moss a vibrant, electric green and brings out that earthy, pine-heavy scent that makes your lungs feel like they’ve just been scrubbed clean.
What’s the Deal with the Treewalk?
You’ve probably seen the photos of the suspension bridges. It’s called the Redwoods Treewalk. It consists of 28 suspension bridges pinned between the trees using a patented "no-bolt" system so the trees aren't harmed.
Is it worth the money?
Depends on when you go. During the day, it's a cool perspective. You get to see the silver ferns from above, which is a view you don't usually get unless you're a bird. But the real magic is the "Nightlights" experience. They have these massive lanterns designed by David Trubridge hanging in the trees. It’s moody. It’s cinematic. It feels like you’ve stepped into a high-budget fantasy film. If you’re choosing between day and night, go at dusk. You get the best of both worlds as the lights flicker on while the sun sets through the trunks.
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Mountain Biking: The World-Class Secret
If you aren't a "hiker" person, you’re probably a bike person. If you aren't either, this forest might change that.
Rotorua is arguably the mountain biking capital of the Southern Hemisphere, and the Redwoods are the heart of it. There are over 160 kilometers of trails. We’re talking world-class dirt here. The volcanic soil—locally called "Roto-dirt"—drains incredibly well. You can have a massive storm, wait an hour, and the trails are tacky and perfect rather than a muddy slip-and-slide.
- The Kids' Loop: Perfectly flat, easy for toddlers.
- The Dipper: A classic grade 2 flow trail that feels like a rollercoaster.
- Whakarewarewa Forest Loop: A 33km epic that circles the whole forest.
I’ve seen pro riders from the Red Bull circuit training here, right next to families with training wheels. There’s no ego in these woods. Just people trying not to hit a tree.
The Spiritual Side of the Wood
We can't talk about this place without mentioning the Tangata Whenua—the people of the land. For the Tūhourangi Ngāti Wāhiao hapū, this land isn't just a "park." It’s a living entity.
When you walk through the forest, you’ll notice carvings and pou (poles) that mark significant areas. There’s a deep sense of kaitiakitanga (guardianship) here. Even though the redwoods themselves are "foreigners" in this landscape, they’ve been embraced. They stand alongside the native ponga (silver fern), creating a hybrid ecosystem that exists nowhere else on Earth. It’s a weirdly beautiful metaphor for New Zealand itself—a mix of what was here and what arrived later, growing together into something unique.
Survival Tips for the Deep Forest
You don't need a machete, but you do need a bit of common sense.
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First, the weather in Rotorua is moody. It can be 20°C and sunny one minute and 12°C with a biting wind the next. Layering is your friend. Also, get a map. The signage is decent, but because the forest is so dense, your GPS can occasionally get "confused" by the canopy. If you take a wrong turn on the Pohaturoa track, you might end up walking five kilometers more than you planned.
Water. Bring it.
There are no taps out on the trails. Once you leave the visitor center, you’re on your own. There’s a small cafe at the entrance that does a decent flat white (this is New Zealand, after all), but once you're deep in the green, it's just you and the trees.
Why the Redwoods Aren't "Native" (And Why That’s Okay)
Some purists get annoyed that the most famous forest in New Zealand is made of American trees. I get it. New Zealand’s native bush is spectacular—think ancient Kauri, Totara, and Rimu. But the redwood forest New Zealand planted serves a purpose beyond just looking pretty.
By using these exotic forests for timber and tourism, it takes the pressure off the remaining native old-growth forests. It’s a buffer. Plus, the redwoods have created a microclimate that allows native undergrowth to flourish. If you look down, the floor is covered in native seedlings. The giants are acting as nurseries for the locals.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
If you're planning to head out there, don't just wing it. Do this instead:
- Skip the Midday Rush: Arrive before 9:00 AM. You’ll get the morning mist rolling through the trunks, and you won’t have to fight for a parking spot.
- The "Blue Lake" Connection: If you’re feeling fit, take the trail that leads from the Redwoods over to Tikitapu (The Blue Lake). It’s a bit of a climb, but the view of the turquoise water through the trees is the best photo op in the region.
- Check the Toi Ohomai Entrance: Most people use the Long Mile Road entrance. If you want a quieter experience, try entering from the Waipa Mill Road side. It’s where the locals go.
- Download the Trailforks App: Especially if you’re biking. It’s the gold standard for not getting lost in the 160km maze of trails.
- Look for the "Undergrowth": Take a second to stop looking up and look down. Find a silver fern—the national symbol. If you flip the leaf over, it’s literally silver. In the old days, Māori hunters would flip the leaves to mark a path in the moonlight.
The Whakarewarewa forest is a place that demands you slow down. It’s not a theme park. It’s a massive, breathing experiment in forestry that accidentally turned into one of the most peaceful spots on the planet. Whether you're there to crush a mountain bike trail or just to stand in silence for ten minutes, it'll leave a mark on you.
Just remember to look up. Way up.