If you look at a map of Western Washington, you’d expect Port Townsend to be a soggy, moss-covered mess. It sits right on the edge of the Olympic Peninsula, staring down the barrel of the Pacific Ocean’s moisture. But honestly? It’s weirdly dry. While Seattleites are trudging through their 38th consecutive day of drizzle, folks walking along Water Street in Port Townsend are often looking at blue sky. This isn’t a marketing fluke or a Chamber of Commerce exaggeration. It’s the weather Port Townsend WA enjoys thanks to a massive geological fluke called the Olympic Rain Shadow.
The Olympic Mountains act like a giant wall. When those big, wet storm systems roll in from the Pacific, they hit the mountains and dump all their moisture on the west side—places like the Hoh Rainforest. By the time the air clears the peaks and moves toward Port Townsend, it’s wrung out. Bone dry. Sorta.
The Rain Shadow Reality Check
People call it the "Blue Hole." Pilots flying over the Quimper Peninsula often see a literal hole in the cloud cover centered right over this Victorian seaport. You’ve probably heard that Seattle gets about 37 inches of rain a year. Port Townsend? It averages roughly 19 inches. That is basically half. It’s actually closer to the annual rainfall of San Francisco than it is to the rest of the Pacific Northwest.
But don't get it twisted. This doesn't mean it's "sunny" in the Southern California sense. You’ll still see grey. Lots of it. The clouds just don't always have the "juice" to actually rain on you. It’s a dry grey. If you’re planning a trip, this distinction matters because it changes how you pack and how you spend your time. You can actually hike at Fort Worden without becoming a drowned rat, even in November.
The wind is the real player here. Because Port Townsend is perched on a point where the Strait of Juan de Fuca meets Admiralty Inlet, the wind can be brutal. It’s a maritime climate through and through. You might have a 60-degree day that feels like 45 because the gusts are coming straight off the frigid water.
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Seasonal Breakdowns: What’s Actually Happening
Spring: The Great Tease
March and April are unpredictable. One minute you’re sitting at a sidewalk cafe with a coffee, and the next, a sudden squall blows your napkin into the harbor. This is when the "Blue Hole" is most obvious. You’ll see dark, angry clouds over the mountains to the west and more dark clouds over the Cascades to the east, but you’re standing in a literal sunbeam. The locals call this "Spring in the PNW," but Port Townsend wins because our "sun breaks" last hours instead of minutes.
Summer: The Sweet Spot
July and August are spectacular. Seriously. Temperatures rarely climb above 75 degrees. While the rest of the country is melting in 90-degree humidity, the weather Port Townsend WA offers is a crisp, cool breeze and endless daylight. It’s the height of sailing season. The humidity stays low, the air smells like salt and evergreen, and you can actually sleep at night without an air conditioner. In fact, most of the historic Victorian homes in town don't even have AC. They don't need it.
Fall: The Golden Fade
September is, arguably, the best month. The summer crowds thin out, but the warmth lingers. The light gets this golden, slanted quality that makes the Victorian architecture look like a movie set. By October, the "Big Dark" starts to creep in across Washington, but the rain shadow keeps Port Townsend relatively sheltered for a few extra weeks.
Winter: The Grey Watch
November through February is the wettest stretch, but again, "wet" is relative. You’ll get misty days and constant wind. The storms that hit the coast can be intense, sending massive waves crashing against the Hudson Street seawall. It’s moody. It’s cozy. It’s the time of year when you lean into the "hygge" vibe at the local bookstores and pubs.
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Wind and the "Point Wilson" Factor
If you look at the National Weather Service data, you'll see Point Wilson mentioned constantly. This is the tip of Fort Worden State Park. It’s where the weather gets real. Because it sticks so far out into the Strait, the wind speeds here are significantly higher than they are just two miles inland in the Uptown neighborhood.
If you are planning to go beachcombing at Glass Beach or hiking the bluff trails, you need a windbreaker. Not a heavy parka, but something that blocks the "bite." The water temperature in the Strait stays around 48 to 52 degrees year-round. That water acts as a massive heat sink. It keeps the town from getting too hot in the summer, but it also keeps the air chilly in the winter. It prevents the deep freezes you see in the Midwest, but it also means you’re basically living in a refrigerator for four months of the year.
Debunking the Rain Myths
I’ve heard people say it never rains in Port Townsend. That’s a lie. It rains. It just doesn't pour. You rarely see those massive, Midwestern-style thunderstorms with lightning and drenching downpours. It’s more of a persistent, annoying mist.
Another myth: It snows all the time. Actually, snow is pretty rare. Because the town is at sea level and surrounded by salt water, the air stays just warm enough to keep things liquid. When it does snow, the town shuts down because of the hills—Port Townsend is surprisingly vertical—but the snow usually melts within 24 hours. If you’re looking for a winter wonderland, you’re better off heading an hour south into the Olympics.
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How to Prepare for Port Townsend Weather
Don't be the tourist in an umbrella. Umbrellas are useless here because of the wind. They’ll just flip inside out.
Instead, do the "Washington Layer."
- Base Layer: A light wool or synthetic tee.
- Mid Layer: A fleece or a "puffy" vest.
- Outer Layer: A high-quality shell with a hood.
This setup allows you to adjust on the fly. You’ll be peeling layers off when the sun hits and zipping up the second you step into the shade.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit:
- Check the Point Wilson buoy data: If you're planning on taking a boat out or even just walking the exposed North Beach, check the marine forecast, not just the "land" weather. The conditions on the water are often 10 degrees colder and much windier.
- Visit the Olympic Rain Shadow website: There is actually a dedicated site (run by weather enthusiasts) that tracks the "Blue Hole." It’s a great way to see if you’re about to get lucky with a sunny day.
- Morning vs. Afternoon: Summers often start with "marine layer" clouds (thick fog) that burn off by 11:00 AM. Don't cancel your morning kayak trip just because it looks grey at 7:00 AM.
- Microclimates are real: The weather at the Boat Haven (south end of town) can be completely different from the weather at North Beach. If it's too windy on one side of the peninsula, drive five minutes to the other side. Usually, one side is sheltered.
Port Townsend is one of the few places in the Northwest where you can reliably plan an outdoor event in the shoulder seasons without a 100% chance of a washout. It’s a meteorological anomaly that makes the town feel a bit like an island, even though it’s attached to the mainland. Respect the wind, embrace the "dry grey," and leave the umbrella at home.