You’re standing on a cliff edge at Sumburgh Head, looking out at the Atlantic. The wind is doing that thing where it tries to peel the skin off your face, but strangely, you aren't actually freezing. This is the great paradox of the weather in Shetland Islands. Most people assume that because these islands sit at 60 degrees north—level with Anchorage, Alaska and St. Petersburg, Russia—they must be a frozen wasteland of permafrost and polar bears.
Honestly? They couldn't be more wrong.
Shetland is a place where the thermostat rarely moves but the sky never stops shifting. It’s an oceanic climate that feels like a living thing. You’ve probably heard the old joke about experiencing four seasons in one day here. In Shetland, that’s not a joke; it’s a standard Tuesday.
The Gulf Stream: Shetland’s Secret Heater
Why isn't it colder? Basically, we owe everything to the North Atlantic Drift, which is just a fancy name for the tail end of the Gulf Stream. This giant conveyor belt of warm water flows past the islands, keeping the sea temperature relatively stable. Because the islands are so small and surrounded by this water, the air stays remarkably mild.
In the dead of winter, the temperature in Shetland usually hovers around 4°C or 5°C. Compare that to the -16°C you might find at the same latitude in Canada. It’s wild. The sea acts like a giant radiator, preventing the deep, bone-chilling freezes that hit mainland Scotland or Scandinavia.
But there is a trade-off.
That same warm water meeting cold Arctic air is a recipe for wind. Lots of it. Shetland is one of the stormiest places in Europe, and the wind is the real character here. It doesn't just blow; it dominates. Locals measure the weather by how many "gale days" we’ve had—statistically, about 58 days a year see gale-force winds.
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Summer and the Magic of Simmer Dim
Summer in Shetland is weird in the best possible way.
From late June through July, the sun barely dips below the horizon. They call this the "Simmer Dim." It’s a twilight that lasts all night. You can literally sit outside and read a book at midnight without a lamp. It’s a disorienting, beautiful experience that messes with your internal clock.
Don't expect a heatwave, though. A "hot" day in Lerwick is 16°C. If it hits 20°C, the locals start looking for shade and complaining about the humidity. The average daytime high in August is a modest 14°C.
The Sea Haar
One minute you’re enjoying a bright, clear view of the cliffs, and the next, a wall of white rolls in. This is the sea haar—a thick, wet coastal fog. It happens when warm air moves over the cooler sea. It’s spooky and can drop the temperature by five degrees in seconds. If you're hiking, this is when things get serious. Navigating a cliff edge in a haar is no joke.
Surviving the Shetland Winter
If the summer is the "Simmer Dim," the winter is the "Lang Night." By the winter solstice in December, the sun rises around 9:00 AM and is gone by 3:00 PM. It’s a time of dramatic light—pink and orange bruises across a grey sky.
And then there are the Mirrie Dancers.
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That’s the local name for the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). Because Shetland is so far north and has very little light pollution outside of Lerwick, the displays can be incredible. It’s not a guaranteed nightly show, but when the solar activity is high and the clouds clear, the sky literally dances.
Snow is actually quite rare. When it does fall, the salt in the air usually melts it before it can really settle. You’re much more likely to be hit by a "blatter" of sleet or hail. The ground stays wet, the air stays damp, and the wind keeps pushing.
Monthly Weather Breakdown (The Honest Version)
Forget the "perfect" climate charts. Here is what the weather in Shetland Islands actually feels like throughout the year:
- January & February: Raw. This is the height of storm season. It's the time of Up Helly Aa, the famous fire festivals. You'll be battered by wind and rain, but the community spirit is at its peak.
- March & April: The awakening. The winds start to die down slightly. You get "bright and gusty" days. Daffodils start appearing, and the first lambs are born, often into a surprise snow shower.
- May & June: Probably the best time to visit. These are statistically the driest months. The puffins arrive in May, and the wildflowers (like sea pinks) cover the cliffs.
- July & August: The peak of the Simmer Dim. Long days, nesting seabirds, and the best chance of calm seas for boat trips to Noss or Mousa.
- September & October: "Hairst" (Autumn). The light turns golden. It’s the time of the Shetland Wool Week. Migrating birds start passing through, making it a haven for twitchers.
- November & December: The darkness returns. Heavy gales are common. It’s a time for hunkering down in a pub with a fiddle session and a dram of whisky.
Why the Wind Matters More Than the Rain
Most people worry about the rain in Scotland. In Shetland, the rain isn't the problem—the wind is. Because the islands are mostly treeless (the wind literally blows the saplings over), there is nothing to break the gusts.
A 15mph "breeze" in Shetland feels like a 30mph wind elsewhere because it’s so constant.
This impacts how you dress. Forget umbrellas; they are useless here and will be inside-out within three minutes. You need a high-quality, hooded waterproof shell. Not a "water-resistant" jacket. A proper, sealed-seam shell.
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Realities of Travel and Weather Disruptions
You have to be flexible. The weather in Shetland Islands dictates everything. If a Force 10 gale hits, the NorthLink ferry from Aberdeen might be delayed or cancelled. Flights into Sumburgh Airport are frequently affected by fog (that pesky haar) or high crosswinds.
Experts who live here will tell you: never book a flight out of Shetland on the same day as an international connection. Give yourself a "buffer day." It’s just part of the island tax.
Actionable Tips for Your Trip
If you’re planning a visit, don't just look at the thermometer. Follow these steps to actually enjoy the elements rather than fighting them:
- The Layering Rule: Wear a base layer (merino wool is king), a mid-layer for warmth (fleece or a light down jacket), and a 100% waterproof outer shell. Even in July. Especially in July.
- Footwear: The ground is boggy. Even if you aren't hiking "mountains," the peat moorland stays wet year-round. Waterproof boots with good grip are non-negotiable.
- Check the "Windy" App: Locals don't just use the BBC weather app. Use an app like Windy.com to see the direction and gust speed. It’ll tell you which side of the island will be sheltered.
- Embrace the Indoors: When a storm hits, head to the Shetland Museum in Lerwick or a local knitwear studio. The islands have a world-class indoor culture designed specifically to wait out the gales.
- Sun Protection: Sounds crazy, right? But the air is so clean and the wind is so cooling that you won't feel your skin burning. Use SPF, especially if you're out on a boat.
Shetland isn't a destination for people who want "perfect" weather. It’s for people who want to feel the power of the North Atlantic. It's a place where the light is unlike anywhere else on Earth, where the air is so fresh it feels like a tonic, and where the weather is the best free show in town. Just remember to tie your hat on tight.
To prepare for the logistics of your journey, your next step should be checking the live ferry and flight status updates on the NorthLink Ferries and Loganair websites, as these are the primary indicators of how the current week's weather is impacting travel across the archipelago.