You’ve seen the postcards of Spain. Usually, they’re all orange blossoms, scorched olive groves, and that relentless, baking heat that makes a 3:00 PM siesta a survival tactic rather than a cultural quirk. But then there’s Gijón. If you head to this corner of Asturias expecting the same parched landscape, you’re in for a shock. It’s green. Violently green.
That lushness comes at a price, and that price is the peculiar, fickle, and honestly charming weather in Gijon Spain. It’s a maritime climate that behaves more like Cornwall or Seattle than the Costa del Sol. I’ve seen tourists show up in July with nothing but tank tops and flip-flops, only to find themselves shivering on the Playa de San Lorenzo because a rogue Atlantic mist decided to settle in for the afternoon.
The Orbayu and Why Your Umbrella is Useless
Locals have a specific word for the rain here: orbayu.
It isn't a downpour. It isn't a storm. It’s a fine, persistent, almost invisible mist that hangs in the air like a damp ghost. You think you’re fine. You walk three blocks to a cider bar, and by the time you sit down, you’re soaked to the bone. Standard umbrellas don’t really work against it because the moisture just drifts sideways.
Gijón gets about 1,000 to 1,200 mm of rain a year. That sounds like a lot, and it is. November and December are the wettest, often seeing over 120 mm of rain each. But here’s the thing—it rarely stops the city. Life in Asturias is lived outside, rain or shine. You’ll see people nursing a glass of sidra on a terrace while a light drizzle falls, barely noticing the dampness.
Summer Without the Scorching
If you hate the 40°C heat of Madrid or Seville, Gijón is your sanctuary.
In the height of August, the average high is a remarkably civil 23°C. It’s the kind of weather where you can actually walk around at noon without feeling like you’re being slowly rotisseried. The hottest it ever really gets is around 28°C or 30°C on a "heatwave" day. For most of us, that’s just a nice Tuesday.
- July and August: These are the gold standard. You get about 6 to 7 hours of pure sunshine a day. The humidity stays high—usually around 75%—but the sea breeze (the galerna) keeps it from feeling sticky.
- September: Honestly? This is the secret window. The crowds vanish, the Bay of Biscay is at its warmest (about 20°C), and the days are often clearer than in mid-summer.
The water temperature is a reality check, though. Even in August, the Cantabrian Sea is bracing. It’s refreshing if you’re swimming, but it’s a far cry from the bathtub-warm waters of the Mediterranean.
Winter: Mild, Wet, and Grey
Winter here is long, but it’s rarely "cold" in the way a New Yorker or a Londoner would define it.
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Frost is a rarity. Snow? Forget about it. You might see a few flakes once every decade, but the salt air usually kills it before it hits the pavement. January is the coldest month, with lows averaging around 6°C and highs near 13°C. It’s the grey that gets you. November is the cloudiest month, where the sky can stay a uniform shade of pewter for weeks at a time.
If you visit in winter, you aren't coming for the beach. You’re coming for the atmosphere. There is something deeply cozy about the weather in Gijon Spain during February—watching the massive Atlantic rollers smash against the sea wall at the Elogio del Horizonte while you’re tucked inside a sidrería with a plate of hot fabada asturiana.
Microclimates and the Cimavilla Factor
Gijón is a city of hills and capes, which means the weather can be different depending on which street you’re standing on.
The old fishermen's quarter, Cimavilla, sits on a peninsula. It catches the wind from every direction. You can be sweating in the shopping district of Calle Corrida, but walk ten minutes uphill to the Santa Catalina park, and you’ll need a windbreaker.
There’s also a local legend about the Cuesta’l Cholo, a popular spot to drink cider by the harbor. People swear it has its own microclimate. Even when the rest of the city is grey, the sun seems to find a way to hit those stone steps just right. Is it meteorologically proven? Probably not. Does it feel true after two glasses of cider? Absolutely.
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Packing Like a Pro
Basically, layers are your only hope.
The temperature can swing 10 degrees in an hour if the wind shifts from the south (the surada) to the north. The south wind is a weird phenomenon—it’s warm, dry, and often brings a bit of "weather stress" or irritability to the locals. Then the wind flips, the clouds roll in from the ocean, and suddenly it’s sweater weather.
- A light raincoat: Make sure it has a hood. Umbrellas are a nuisance in the narrow streets of the old town.
- Decent walking shoes: The humidity makes the cobblestones in Cimavilla slippery when wet.
- Swimwear (even in October): You’ll see locals taking a "dip" in the San Lorenzo bay year-round. It’s supposed to be good for the circulation. Or so they say while shivering.
Timing Your Trip
If you want the best odds of a dry holiday, aim for the window between late June and early September.
This is when Gijón is at its most vibrant. The Semana Negra festival in July and the Fiesta de Begoña in August turn the city into a giant outdoor party. The weather usually cooperates, though you should always expect at least one "Asturian day"—that’s a day that starts sunny, rains at noon, clears up for a sunset, and fogs over by midnight.
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For the hikers and mountain lovers, spring is spectacular. The Picos de Europa are just an hour away, and the snow-capped peaks against the green valleys are world-class. Just be prepared for the mud. Asturias is green for a reason, and that reason is constant, reliable hydration from the sky.
Actionable Takeaways for Your Visit
- Check the Tides: This is vital for Gijón. At high tide, the city's main beach (San Lorenzo) almost completely disappears. The weather might be perfect, but if the tide is in, you'll have nowhere to put your towel.
- Don't Trust the Forecast 100%: Local apps like MeteoAsturias are often more accurate than global providers. If the forecast says "100% rain," it might just be an hour of orbayu followed by sun.
- Embrace the Grey: If it starts raining, do what the Gijoneses do. Head to a cider bar, order a "culín," and wait it out. The weather is part of the city’s soul; without the rain, Gijón wouldn’t be the lush, emerald paradise that makes it so different from the rest of Spain.