You’ve seen the photos. Everyone has. Those neon-bright umbrellas in Positano, the turquoise water that looks like it’s been hit with a saturation filter, and that hazy, golden-hour glow over Ravello. Most people look at those pictures and think the weather for Amalfi Coast is just a perpetual loop of 80-degree sunshine.
Honestly? It isn't. Not even close.
If you show up in November expecting a swimsuit-clad holiday, you’re going to be standing on a pier in a raincoat watching the ferries get canceled. The coast is moody. It’s a place of microclimates where the Lattari Mountains literally trap clouds against the cliffs, dumping rain on Amalfi while Positano—just a few miles away—stays bone dry.
Understanding the actual rhythm of this coastline is the difference between a "dolce vita" dream and a very expensive week spent inside a hotel room.
The Seasons Nobody Tells You About
Forget the standard spring, summer, and fall labels. On the coast, the weather moves in its own weird phases.
The "Hibernation" phase runs from November through March. This is when the real rain happens. November is statistically the wettest month, averaging about 6.4 inches of rain. That’s a lot of water. It’s not just a drizzle; it’s the kind of torrential downpour that makes the stone steps of the towns look like mini-waterfalls.
But then there’s the "Awakening."
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Late April and May are, quite frankly, the secret sweet spot. The air smells like lemon blossoms and jasmine. Temperatures sit comfortably around $20°C$ to $23°C$ ($68°F$ to $73°F$). You can hike the Path of the Gods without sweating through your shirt, and the crowds haven't arrived to choke the narrow streets yet.
Why August is Actually Challenging
Most travelers flock here in August. They want the heat. And boy, do they get it.
August is the hottest month, with highs often hitting $31°C$ ($88°F$) or more. But it’s the humidity that gets you. It can feel "muggy" and "oppressive," to use the technical terms from weather stations like WeatherSpark.
Combine that heat with the fact that it’s peak season for Italian holidays (Ferragosto), and you have a recipe for exhaustion. The buses are packed, the sun is relentless, and the sea—while beautiful—doesn't offer much relief when you're fighting for a square inch of sand.
If you must go in summer, go in June. The days are the longest they'll be all year, and the average high of $28°C$ ($82°F$) feels much more manageable before the late-summer humidity settles in.
Microclimates: The Mountain vs. The Sea
The Amalfi Coast isn't a flat beach destination. It’s a vertical landscape. This geography creates some bizarre weather quirks that most weather apps completely miss.
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- Ravello's Cloud Cap: Ravello sits about 350 meters above sea level. Often, the coastal towns will be sunny while Ravello is shrouded in mist. It’s romantic, sure, but it’s also about $3°C$ to $5°C$ cooler than the beach.
- The Tramontana Wind: In the winter and early spring, a cold wind called the Tramontana blows from the north. It clears the sky to a piercing, crystalline blue, but it’ll make you reach for a heavy sweater even if the sun is out.
- Ferry Disruptions: This is a big one. Even on a sunny day, high swells can cancel ferries. If the wind is coming from the south (the Libeccio), the docks in Positano and Amalfi become unsafe.
Basically, if your entire itinerary depends on a boat, you need a backup plan for when the sea says no.
Month-by-Month Reality Check
Let's break down the year based on actual data from local sources like Positano.com and Citalia.
January & February: Cold and wet. Highs are around $14°C$ ($57°F$), but it feels colder because of the damp sea air. Many hotels and restaurants close for renovations. It’s quiet, haunting, and incredibly cheap, but don’t expect "beach weather."
March & April: Unpredictable. You might get a week of glorious $18°C$ ($64°F$) sun, or you might get four days of "sporadic" showers. This is prime time for the "Regatta of the Ancient Maritime Republics" prep and the start of the Ravello Concert Society season.
May & June: The "Golden Era." Rainfall drops significantly—down to about 4-5 rainy days in June. The water is finally warm enough for a dip, hitting around $21°C$ ($70°F$) by late June.
July & August: The "Crush." Bone dry (only 4 days of rain in July) and very hot. This is when the sea is at its warmest, peaking at $26°C$ ($78°F$).
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September: Arguably the best month. The sea has spent all summer soaking up the sun, so it's warmer than it was in June. The air temperature drops back to a pleasant $26°C$ ($79°F$), and the evening "chill" starts to return, making dinner on a terrace actually enjoyable again.
October: The "Gambler’s Month." Early October is often stunning—a second summer. But by the end of the month, the autumn storms start rolling in. It's the transition period where the coast starts to exhale and slow down.
Hiking the Path of the Gods: Weather Safety
If you're planning to hike the Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods), the weather isn't just about comfort; it's about safety.
Local guides, like those from Zicasso, emphasize that you should never hike after heavy rain. The limestone paths become incredibly slick. In the summer, you need to be off the trail by 11:00 AM. There is almost zero shade on that mountain. Every year, tourists get heatstroke because they underestimated the Mediterranean sun.
In the autumn, watch for the "afternoon clouds." They can roll in fast, dropping visibility to nearly zero in minutes. If you see the peaks of the Lattari Mountains disappearing into gray, stay off the trail.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Trip
Stop checking the 14-day forecast two months in advance; it’s useless for a coastline this complex.
Instead, look at the sea conditions rather than just the air temperature. Sites like Windy.com are better for predicting if your ferry will actually run.
- Pack for the "Amalfi Layer": Even in July, bring a light linen shirt or a wrap. Once the sun drops behind the cliffs (which happens early in towns like Positano), the temperature dips fast.
- Book for the Shoulders: Aim for the last week of May or the third week of September. You get the $25°C$ ($77°F$) weather without the $100$ per day sun-lounger prices.
- Download a Local App: Use Meteo.it—it’s much more accurate for Italian microclimates than the generic weather app on your phone.
- Have a "Rainy Day" Map: Identify the museums in Amalfi or the indoor cathedrals in Sorrento ahead of time. When it rains on the coast, it pours, and the narrow streets become slippery.
The Amalfi Coast is beautiful in every light, but it’s a lot more beautiful when you aren't shivering in a sundress or melting on a hiking trail at noon.