You've probably driven past the Monmouth Hills area in Highlands, New Jersey, a hundred times without realizing you’re skimming the edge of one of the most guarded legacies in the Garden State. It’s tucked away. Up on the bluffs of Navesink, the Water Witch Club Casino stands as a stubborn reminder of a Gilded Age that most people think only existed in Newport or the Hamptons. But here’s the thing: it isn't a "casino" in the way you’re thinking. There are no slot machines. No blackjack tables. No neon lights flickering over the Atlantic.
In the late 19th century, "casino" meant a social gathering place, a summer clubhouse for the elite who wanted to escape the suffocating heat of New York City. The Water Witch Club was—and honestly, still is—the heartbeat of a private community known as Monmouth Hills. If you’re looking for a place to gamble your paycheck, you’ve got the wrong address. But if you’re looking for a architectural time capsule that explains how the American upper class actually lived when they weren't trying to impress the public, this is it.
Why Everyone Gets the Water Witch Club Casino Wrong
People hear the word "casino" and their brain goes straight to Atlantic City or Vegas. That’s a mistake. The Water Witch Club Casino was built in 1905, designed by Frederick P. Hill, who worked under the legendary McKim, Mead & White. Think about that for a second. We’re talking about the same pedigree that gave us the original Pennsylvania Station and the Brooklyn Museum.
The building was never about "gaming" in the modern sense. It was about "society." It was about tennis matches that lasted all afternoon and dinners that stretched into the evening while the breeze came off the Sandy Hook Bay. The "Water Witch" name itself comes from James Fenimore Cooper’s 1830 novel, which was set in this specific stretch of the Jersey Shore. It’s a literary connection that the original residents took very seriously. They weren't just building houses; they were building a romanticized version of American history.
The architecture is Shingle Style. It’s rugged. It’s meant to look like it grew out of the hillside. It doesn't scream for attention like the marble palaces of the era. Instead, it uses natural wood and sweeping porches to frame the view. That view is the real currency here. From the Casino, you can see the Manhattan skyline on a clear day, but it feels like it’s a thousand miles away.
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The Monmouth Hills Connection
You can't talk about the casino without talking about the club itself. Founded in 1895, the Water Witch Club was essentially a residential colony. It was a gated community before that was a "thing." The developers bought about 80 acres of what they called "The Highlands of Navesink." They wanted a place where creative types—architects, writers, and businessmen—could hang out without the rigid formality of the bigger resorts.
It was exclusive. It’s still exclusive.
The Casino served as the communal living room. Because many of the original cottages didn't have massive kitchens or ballroom-sized parlors, the Casino was where the heavy lifting of social life happened. It had a dining room, a stage for performances, and plenty of space for the "Water Witchers" to mingle. To this day, the building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It’s a protected piece of New Jersey’s weird, wonderful, and often misunderstood coastal history.
Architecture That Defies the Shore Standard
Walk around most Jersey Shore towns and you see a lot of the same stuff. Vinyl siding, boxy raised foundations, and cookie-cutter decks. The Water Witch Club Casino is the opposite of that. It’s a massive, sprawling structure that hugs the contours of the land.
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- The Stone Work: The foundation and chimneys use local puddingstone. It’s a dark, chunky conglomerate rock that gives the building a grounded, almost medieval feel.
- The Porches: They are deep and wrap around the building to catch the cross-breezes. Before air conditioning, this was the highest form of technology.
- The Interior: High ceilings, dark wood, and a fireplace that looks like it could roast a whole ox. It’s cozy but intimidatingly large at the same time.
One of the most interesting things is how the building has survived. Being on a hill helps—it’s tucked away from the direct storm surges that wreck the beachfront properties—but the maintenance on a century-old wood-shingle building is a nightmare. The fact that it still stands, looking much like it did in 1910, is a testament to the community’s obsession with preservation.
The Mystery of the "Water Witch" Name
So, why a witch? As I mentioned, it's from the James Fenimore Cooper book. The story involves a mysterious brigantine (a ship) named the Water-Witch and a bit of smuggling and romance. The residents of Monmouth Hills leaned into this theme hard. There’s a "Witch’s Wood" and a "Dragon’s Den" nearby.
It gives the whole area a slightly mystical, old-world vibe. It’s not spooky, exactly, but it’s definitely atmospheric. When the fog rolls in off the bay and blankets the hills, and you see the dark silhouette of the Casino sitting up there, you totally get why they chose the name. It feels like a place where secrets are kept.
Life Inside the Club Today
If you’re hoping to just wander in and grab a drink, I have some bad news. The Water Witch Club is private. It’s owned by the members of the Monmouth Hills community. They use it for weddings, private parties, and community meetings.
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However, they do occasionally open it up for historic tours or local events. If you’re a fan of American architecture, those rare opportunities are worth the wait. Seeing the craftsmanship up close—the way the joints are fitted, the original glass in some of the windows—it’s a masterclass in how things used to be built.
The social structure has changed, obviously. It’s not just New York bankers anymore. You’ve got families who have lived there for generations and newcomers who fell in love with the "Old New Jersey" aesthetic. But the rules of the road remain the same: preserve the view, protect the history, and keep the noise down.
What Most People Miss About This Spot
The biggest misconception is that the Water Witch Club Casino is part of a park or a public beach club. It’s not. It’s the centerpiece of a neighborhood. People live in the houses surrounding it year-round.
Another thing? The geography. Monmouth Hills is one of the highest points on the Atlantic coast between Maine and Florida. That elevation is what makes the Casino so special. It’s a "coastal" building that doesn't feel like it’s at the beach. It feels like it’s in the mountains, except you happen to be looking at the ocean.
Actionable Steps for History Buffs
If you're fascinated by the Water Witch Club Casino, don't just show up and try to park in a private driveway. That's a quick way to get a ticket or a firm talking-to from a security guard. Do this instead:
- Check the Monmouth County Historical Association: They occasionally host lectures or off-site events that focus on the Navesink highlands. They are the best source for the actual blueprints and historical photos of the Casino.
- Drive the Perimeter: You can get a decent view of the architecture by driving through the public roads of Highlands and looking up toward the hills. Just be respectful of the "Private Road" signs when you hit the Monmouth Hills entrance.
- Read the Book: Seriously, pick up a copy of The Water-Witch by Cooper. It’s a dense 19th-century read, but it explains the entire "soul" of the area. It makes seeing the building much more meaningful.
- Visit Twin Lights: If you want that same "high altitude" coastal feeling without the private property restrictions, go to the Twin Lights State Historic Site nearby. You get the same views and a similar architectural vibe, and it’s open to everyone.
The Water Witch Club Casino isn't a place to lose money on a slot machine. It’s a place where the 20th century never quite ended, and for a state that is constantly paving over its past, that makes it more valuable than any jackpot. It’s a slice of New Jersey that feels more like a dream or a movie set than a real neighborhood. But it is real, and it’s still there, watching the ships come into the harbor just like it has for over a hundred years.