You’re looking for watches that start with B. Maybe you’re starting a collection, or maybe you just realized that some of the heaviest hitters in horology all share the same first letter. It’s a weird coincidence, honestly. But if you look at a watch roll from any serious enthusiast, you are almost guaranteed to see a "B" on a dial.
We aren't just talking about one type of watch here. From the cockpit-ready tools of Breitling to the high-jewelry flexes of Bulgari, the letter B covers a massive spectrum of what makes watch collecting fun—and expensive.
Breitling and the Pilot Obsession
If we’re talking about watches that start with B, Breitling is the elephant in the room. They basically own the aviation space. While other brands were making dress watches for socialites, Leon Breitling was obsessed with COSC-certified precision for pilots.
👉 See also: The Black Green and Red American Flag: What the Colors Actually Mean
The Navitimer is the one everyone knows. It has that busy, math-heavy slide rule bezel. Does anyone actually use the slide rule to calculate fuel consumption anymore? Probably not. We have flight computers for that. But the Navitimer remains a staple because it looks like a piece of instrumentation. It’s tactile. It feels like history on your wrist.
Recently, Georges Kern has been steering the ship at Breitling, and he’s moved them away from the "hyper-masculine, only for pilots" vibe. The Top Time collaborations—like the ones with Triumph or Deus Ex Machina—feel more like lifestyle pieces. They’re colorful. They’re fun. They don’t take themselves too seriously. But at their core, they still use the B01 movement, which is a legitimate powerhouse of an engine.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Factor
Here is a hot take that usually starts fights at watch meetups: Blancpain made the first modern dive watch. Most people scream "Rolex Submariner!" but the Fifty Fathoms actually beat it to market by a few months in 1953.
Captain Robert "Bob" Maloubier needed a watch for the French "Nageurs de Combat" (combat swimmers). He needed a rotating bezel to track oxygen. He needed high visibility. Blancpain delivered.
The weird thing about Blancpain is that they don't make quartz watches. Never have, never will—at least according to their long-standing internal philosophy. Jean-Claude Biver famously saved the brand during the quartz crisis by leaning into this mechanical purism. Today, owning a Blancpain feels like being part of an insider club. The Villeret line is stunningly thin and elegant, but the Fifty Fathoms is the rugged soul of the brand. It’s chunky. It’s got that sapphire bezel that catches the light in a way a ceramic Submariner just can't.
Bell & Ross: The Square Peg in a Round Hole
Bell & Ross is the "new kid" compared to the centuries-old heritage of Blancpain. Founded in 1992 by Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo, they started by rebranding Sinn watches.
Then they did something brave. They decided to put a cockpit clock on the wrist.
The BR 01 changed everything for them. It’s a literal square. It’s huge. It looks like it was ripped straight out of a fighter jet’s dashboard. Not everyone can pull it off. If you have small wrists, it might look like you’re wearing a wall clock. But for people who want something that stands out in a sea of round Divers, Bell & Ross is the go-to. They’ve recently moved into the "integrated bracelet" hype with the BR 05, which is a bit more refined and wearable for the office, but the square DNA is still there.
Bremont and the British Resurgence
Most watches that start with B are Swiss. Bremont is the exception. Nick and Giles English started this brand with a focus on British engineering and a genuine love for old aircraft.
They catch some flack from "purists" because they used to rely heavily on modified ETA or Sellita movements, but they’ve been working hard to bring manufacturing back to the UK with "The Wing," their massive facility in Henley-on-Thames. Their Trip-Tick case construction is actually super cool—it’s a three-piece case that makes the watch much more shock-resistant.
✨ Don't miss: Why the Beef Wellington Serious Eats Method is Still the Gold Standard for Home Cooks
If you want a watch that feels like a piece of military equipment, the Supermarine or the MBII (tested on Martin-Baker ejection seats!) are legit. They aren't trying to be delicate. They’re over-engineered, and that’s the whole point.
Bulgari: More Than Just Jewelry
For a long time, "serious" collectors ignored Bulgari. They saw them as a jewelry house that happened to make watches. That was a mistake.
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has spent the last decade shattering world records for thinness. We’re talking about mechanical movements that are barely thicker than a credit card. It’s insane. The design, handled by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, is architectural and aggressive. It’s all angles and matte titanium.
When you look at watches that start with B, Bulgari is the one representing the "Genta" influence—the legendary designer Gerald Genta actually had his brand folded into Bulgari years ago. That DNA is why the Octo looks so distinct. It doesn’t look like a Rolex. It doesn’t look like an Omega. It looks like the future.
Other "B" Brands You Should Know
- Ball Watch Company: Originally American, famous for their role in the railroad industry. They use tritium gas tubes for lume, meaning the watch glows 24/7 without needing a light charge.
- Bovet: High-end, artisanal, and incredibly ornate. Many of their watches can be converted from a wristwatch to a pocket watch or a desk clock.
- Baume & Mercier: The "entry-level luxury" hero. The Riviera model is a fantastic alternative for someone who wants the integrated bracelet look without spending $30k.
- Breguet: The king. Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon. If you want a watch with history that predates most modern countries, this is it. The "Breguet Hands" and "Breguet Numerals" are design languages used by almost everyone else today.
What Most People Get Wrong About These Brands
A common misconception is that all these brands are under the same umbrella. They aren't.
Breitling is independent (backed by CVC Capital Partners). Blancpain and Breguet are part of the Swatch Group. Bulgari is LVMH. This matters because it dictates how they innovate. Swatch Group brands like Blancpain have access to incredible shared R&D, while independent brands like Breitling have more freedom to be "edgy" with their marketing.
Another mistake? Thinking "B" brands are all "tool watches." While Breitling and Bremont lean into the tool aesthetic, Breguet and Bulgari are pure art. You can't put them in one box just because of an alphabetized list.
Making the Choice: How to Buy a "B" Watch
If you’re ready to pull the trigger on a watch that starts with B, don't just look at the logo. Think about the "why."
- The Pilot: Go Breitling. Specifically, look at the 41mm Navitimer if you want something that fits under a cuff, or the Avenger if you want to feel like you could punch a hole through a wall.
- The Historian: It has to be Breguet or Blancpain. The Fifty Fathoms is the choice for someone who wants a diver with more "soul" than a Submariner.
- The Architect: Bulgari Octo Finissimo. It’s the most comfortable watch you will ever wear because it’s so light and thin you forget it’s there.
- The Value Seeker: Baume & Mercier. Their Baumatic movements have a 5-day power reserve, which is wild for the price point.
Check the secondary market prices before you buy new. Breitling and Bell & Ross often take a significant hit in value the moment you walk out of the boutique. If you buy "pre-loved," you can often get 30-40% off the MSRP, making these watches an even better deal. However, for a Breguet, you’re playing in a different league—those pieces tend to hold value better because of their sheer complexity and low production numbers.
Honestly, the letter B is stacked. Whether you want the ruggedness of a Bremont or the record-breaking engineering of a Bulgari, you’re getting a piece of horological significance. Just make sure you try them on first—a square Bell & Ross wears a lot differently than a round Breitling.
Actionable Next Steps
- Measure your wrist: Brands like Bell & Ross and Breitling often run large (43mm+). If you have a wrist under 6.5 inches, look for the "38mm" or "40mm" versions of these models.
- Research the "B01" vs "Sellita" movements: If you are buying a Breitling, check if it has the in-house B01 movement. It’s worth the extra money for the power reserve and the warranty.
- Visit a Multi-Brand Boutique: Many high-end malls have stores that carry both Bulgari and Breitling. Seeing them side-by-side helps you realize if you want "jewelry-adjacent" or "tool-adjacent" luxury.
- Check the Lume: If you go for a Ball watch, ask to see it in a dark room. The tritium tubes are a completely different experience than standard Super-LumiNova.