Collecting watches is a trap. It’s a beautiful, ticking, high-precision trap that smells like expensive leather and industrial-grade lubricants. You start by wanting one nice thing to mark a promotion or a wedding, and three years later, you're lurking on forums at 2:00 AM debating the merits of a "flat four" bezel on a Submariner. Keeping your watch love on the right course isn't just about having the money to buy what you want; it’s about not letting the hobby turn into a mindless shopping spree that leaves you with a box full of regrets.
Most people fail at this. They follow the hype. They see a celebrity wearing a Nautilus and think that’s the "goal," forgetting that those pieces are basically financial assets for the ultra-wealthy, not tools for telling time. If you want to actually enjoy this hobby for decades, you need a strategy that prioritizes personal taste over Instagram likes.
The psychology of the "First Big Purchase"
Everyone remembers their first "real" watch. For many, it’s a Seiko 5 or maybe a Hamilton Khaki. Those are great. They’re honest. But then the itch starts. You see someone with a Tudor Black Bay or an Omega Speedmaster and suddenly, your perfectly functional Seiko feels like a toy. This is the danger zone.
Keeping watch love on the right course requires recognizing that the "upgrade" cycle is infinite. There is always a more expensive reference. If you buy a Rolex Datejust because you think it’ll make you feel successful, the feeling lasts about two weeks. Then you start looking at Day-Dates. Instead, the smartest collectors I know—people like Eric Wind or the late, great Genta enthusiasts—buy based on a specific mechanical interest or a design language that speaks to them personally. They aren't chasing a status symbol; they're chasing a piece of engineering.
Think about the movement. Are you into the history of the Valjoux 72? Or are you more of a Spring Drive person because the smooth sweep of a Grand Seiko makes your brain happy? Honestly, if you can’t explain why you like a watch without mentioning the brand name, you’re probably off course.
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Why the "Investment" Narrative is a Scam
Let’s be real. Unless you are buying extremely rare Patek Philippe references or specific discontinued Rolex GMTs at MSRP, watches are generally terrible investments. If you’re getting into this to make money, go buy an index fund. It’s safer and you won't have to worry about scratching the lugs.
The market peaked around 2022 and has been correcting ever since. People who bought "hype" watches at the top are now underwater. To keep your watch love on the right course, you have to decouple the joy of ownership from the resale value. A watch should be a "sunk cost" the moment it hits your wrist. If you can't afford to lose 30% of its value the second you walk out of the boutique, you can't afford the watch. This mindset shift is what separates the happy hobbyists from the stressed-out speculators.
Finding your specific niche
Don't buy what I like. Don't buy what Hodinkee says is "essential."
- Some guys only collect 34mm vintage Omegas because they love the understated elegance of the 1950s.
- Others go deep on "tool watches" like Sinn or Damasko, preferring over-engineered steel that can survive a nuclear blast.
- A few madmen only collect digital Casios from the 80s.
These people are having more fun than the guy who just bought a Submariner because his boss has one. Diversity in a collection is overrated anyway. If you love divers, buy five divers. Who cares? It’s your wrist.
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Maintenance is the invisible tax
Nobody talks about the service costs. You buy a 20-year-old chronograph for $4,000 thinking you got a deal. Then the pushers get sticky. You take it to a watchmaker, and they quote you $800 for a full overhaul because parts for that specific ETA movement are getting harder to find.
Suddenly, your "affordable" hobby is a recurring monthly bill. To keep your watch love on the right course, you need to factor in the long-term cost of ownership. Mechanical watches are like vintage cars. They need oil changes. They need gaskets replaced. If you own ten mechanical watches, you should probably be setting aside a few hundred dollars a year just for the eventual "check engine light" moments.
Ignoring this leads to a "graveyard" in your watch box—beautiful pieces that don't run because you can't justify the $1,200 service fee for a watch that's only worth $2,000. It's depressing.
The Role of Microbrands and Independent Watchmaking
We are currently living in a golden age of microbrands. Companies like Baltic, Farer, and Christopher Ward are doing things that the big Swiss houses wouldn't dream of. They’re taking risks with color and case shape.
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A big part of keeping watch love on the right course is looking beyond the "Big Three" (Rolex, Patek, AP). You can get a high-quality, Swiss-made movement with a unique design for under $1,000. These brands often have much better communities too. You can actually talk to the founders. Try doing that with the CEO of Richemont.
Actionable Steps for a Better Collection
If you're feeling overwhelmed or like you've spent too much money on things you don't actually wear, it's time to course-correct. It’s not about having more; it’s about having the right things.
- The "One Week" Rule: Before you buy any watch, wait a week. If you're still obsessively checking the listing every four hours, maybe it's real. If the urge faded, it was just a dopamine hit you were chasing, not a timepiece.
- Sell to Buy: Implement a "one in, one out" policy. This forces you to evaluate if the new shiny object is actually better than what you already own. It stops the clutter.
- Ignore the "Grail": The idea of a "grail watch" is a lie. Once you get it, you’ll just find a new one. Focus on the watches that fit your actual lifestyle right now. If you work from home in sweatpants, do you really need a gold dress watch?
- Go Hands-On: Never buy a watch based on a render or a professional photo. Watches are three-dimensional objects. They have weight, height, and light-play that cameras can't capture. Go to a Meetup. Go to a RedBar event. Try it on.
- Document Your Why: Keep a small notebook or a digital file of why you bought each piece. What was happening in your life? What drew you to it? This builds a narrative and makes the collection feel like a journey rather than a shopping list.
Keeping watch love on the right course is a lifelong practice of curation and self-reflection. It’s about realizing that the most valuable thing about a watch isn't the gold in the case or the jewels in the movement—it’s the way it makes you feel when you glance down at your wrist to see how much of the day is left.
Stop worrying about the "next big thing" and start wearing what you already have. If you find yourself more interested in the price charts than the ticking on your wrist, take a break. Sell everything but your favorite piece, wear it for a year, and rediscover why you liked watches in the first place. That is the only way to stay on the right path.