You’ve seen the videos. A chic French woman swipes a matte-looking stick across her lips, blurs it with a finger, and suddenly looks like she’s been eating berries in a meadow—or, as the brand founder Violette Serrat puts it, bouche mordue. Translated, that’s "just-bitten lips." It’s a specific vibe. It isn’t the high-glam, sharp-edged red lip of a 1940s film star. It's more like the messy, effortless flush you get after a long lunch and a few glasses of wine in a Parisian bistro.
But here is the thing: Violette FR Bisou Balm is kind of a confusing product if you’re used to traditional lipsticks or even standard tinted balms. Most balms are shiny. Most matte lipsticks are heavy. This is neither. Honestly, when I first tried it, I thought the tube was broken because it felt so... dry? But then I saw the finish in the mirror, and I finally got the hype.
The Mystery of the "Sheer-Matte" Formula
Most of us have been trained to think that "matte" equals "dry and opaque." We think of those liquid lipsticks from 2016 that made your lips look like a cracked desert floor. Bisou Balm flips that script. It’s a sheer-matte hybrid. It uses a high concentration of dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymers to create a blurring, silicone-rich slip that fills in fine lines rather than sitting on top of them.
It’s meant to look like your natural lip texture, just better. If you look at the ingredients, you’ll see things like rapeseed oil and Tabebuia impetiginosa bark extract (a calming antioxidant), but don't expect a greasy feel. It’s light. Airy. Almost powdery.
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One of the biggest misconceptions is that this is a "hydrating" balm in the way Chapstick is. It’s not. While it has moisturizing ingredients, the finish is velvety. If your lips are currently peeling or super parched, this will absolutely cling to the flakes. You’ve gotta prep. Violette herself actually suggests moisturizing your lips first, blotting off the excess, and then applying the Bisou Balm.
Which Shade Actually Suits You?
Violette’s color palette is heavily inspired by French confectionery and the "gourmandise" of her childhood. Because they are so sheer, they are pretty forgiving, but they definitely lean into different moods.
- Bêtise: This is the iconic one. It’s a warm berry with red and brown undertones. It’s that classic "I just ate a cherry popsicle" look. On most skin tones, this is the safest bet for a daily driver.
- Amour Fou: A soft, cool-toned crimson. If you have cool undertones or want a "red lip" that doesn't feel like a Red Lip™, this is the winner.
- Calisson: For the "no-makeup" enthusiasts. It’s a warm, tender beige. On very pale skin, it’s a perfect nude; on deeper skin, it’s a beautiful subtle lip-toner.
- Bonbon Myrtille: This one looks scary in the tube—a deep, moody blueberry. But on the lips? It’s a jammy, muted raspberry that looks incredible on olive and deep skin tones.
- Sucette: A bright raspberry pink. It’s the most "awake" of the bunch.
The buildability is the real draw here. One swipe is basically invisible. Two swipes gives you a tint. Three swipes, and you’ve got a soft-focus, blurred lipstick look that won't smear across your face when you put on a scarf.
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Why Some People Hate It (And Why They’re Wrong)
If you go on Reddit or look at Sephora reviews, you’ll see some people complaining that it’s "not pigmented enough" or feels "waxy."
Here is the blunt truth: If you want a bold, opaque lipstick, you will hate this. If you want a glossy, slippery balm, you will also hate this. The Bisou Balm is designed for the person who wants to look like they aren't wearing makeup at all. It’s for the person who wants definition and a flush of color without the "maintenance" of a traditional lip.
The packaging is another point of contention. It’s a slim, lightweight plastic tube. Some users feel it's a bit flimsy for the price point (usually around $28–$30), but it’s designed to be thrown in a tiny bag and applied without a mirror. It’s "unf*ckupable," as some fans say. You don't need a lip liner. You don't need a brush. You just swipe and go.
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How to Get the Most Out of It
To really get that French-girl look, you can't just slap it on. Well, you can, but there's a better way.
- Exfoliate first. Since it's a matte finish, any dry skin will be magnified. Use a damp washcloth or a sugar scrub.
- The "Over-Line" Trick. Because the formula is so sheer and blurry, you can actually swipe it slightly outside your natural lip line. It creates a soft, voluminous effect that looks natural because there's no harsh edge.
- Use it as a Blush. In a pinch, this works beautifully on the cheeks. Since it’s matte and sheer, it blends into the skin better than most actual cream blushes, which can sometimes be too dewy or pigmented.
It’s also worth noting the scent. It has a light, biscuit-like vanilla scent. It’s subtle, but if you’re someone who hates fragrance in their lip products, be aware. It’s not a chemical smell; it’s more like a Parisian bakery.
The Final Word on Bisou Balm
Violette FR has carved out a very specific niche. The brand isn't trying to compete with the heavy-duty pigments of brands like MAC or the high-gloss shine of Rhode. Bisou Balm is a vibe. It's for the person who wants to look a little bit "undone."
Is it a "must-have"? If you love a minimal routine and the blurred-lip aesthetic, yes. It is one of the few products that actually delivers on that specific "bitten" look without the mess of a stain or the dryness of a traditional matte. Just make sure your lips are hydrated before you start, and don't expect it to perform like a standard lipstick. It’s its own category entirely.
Actionable Tips for Your First Bisou Balm
- Start with Bêtise if you're unsure; it is the most universally flattering "flush" color.
- Apply 3 layers if you want the color to actually show up in photos, as the sheerness can get washed out by bright lights.
- Pair it with minimal skin makeup. The "French look" relies on the contrast between a soft matte lip and healthy, glowing skin. Use a light skin tint rather than a full-coverage foundation to keep the aesthetic cohesive.