Van Cleef on Men: Why the Alhambra Clover is the New Power Move

Van Cleef on Men: Why the Alhambra Clover is the New Power Move

You’ve seen it. That distinct four-leaf clover peeking out from under a tailored suit sleeve or hanging just below the collar of a heavyweight white tee. For decades, the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection was the unofficial uniform of Upper East Side matriarchs and European royalty. But things have shifted. Hard.

Honestly, the sight of van cleef on men used to be a rarity, a "fashion risk" reserved for the boldest dressers. Now? It’s basically the gold standard for guys who want to signal wealth without the loud, over-the-top logos of the early 2010s. Whether it’s Drake rocking a 20-motif sautoir or a tech founder with a subtle onyx bracelet, the "lucky clover" has officially crossed the gender aisle.

The Death of the "For Her" Label

Let’s be real: jewelry doesn't have a gender, but marketing departments spend millions trying to convince us it does. For a long time, Van Cleef & Arpels was tucked away in the "ultra-feminine" category. It was all about fairies, flowers, and delicate romance.

Then the world changed.

Fashion moved toward a fluid space where a "women’s" handbag or a "women’s" necklace became just... an accessory. When you look at van cleef on men, it doesn't look like they're playing dress-up in their wife's jewelry box. It looks intentional. It looks expensive. It looks like a guy who knows exactly who he is and doesn't need a chunky, "masculine" skull ring to prove it.

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Why Rappers and Athletes Are Obsessed

It’s not just about the aesthetic. It’s about the flex.

Take a look at the heavy hitters. Drake has been name-dropping the brand for years. At the 2025 Grammy after-parties, we saw a massive uptick in Alhambra sightings. But why this brand?

  1. The Investment Factor: As of late 2025, Van Cleef prices have continued their steady climb. A Vintage Alhambra bracelet in malachite that cost roughly €5,250 in 2023 jumped to over €6,300 by 2025. Men are looking at these pieces as wearable assets.
  2. The "If You Know, You Know" Factor: It’s quiet luxury, sort of. Everyone knows what a Rolex is. Not everyone recognizes a guilloché gold clover immediately, but those who do understand the tax bracket you’re in.
  3. The Symbolism: Jacques Arpels famously said, "To be lucky, you have to believe in luck." Athletes are incredibly superstitious. Seeing Hong Kong fencer Cheung Ka-long or MLB star Junior Caminero wearing Alhambra on the field isn't just about fashion—it’s a talisman.

How to Actually Wear It Without Looking Like You're Trying Too Hard

If you’re thinking about dropping five figures on a piece, you don't want to mess up the execution. The key to pulling off van cleef on men is balance.

The Bracelet Stack
Don't let the Alhambra fly solo if you're worried about it looking too "delicate." Pair a 5-motif Onyx bracelet with a heavy gold watch—think a Day-Date or a Royal Oak. The black onyx grounds the look and gives it a bit of an edge.

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The Pendant Move
A single motif pendant on a longer chain is the move for 2026. Forget the short, 16-inch "choker" length that's common in women's styling. You want that clover sitting mid-chest. Wear it over a black turtleneck or tucked slightly inside a linen shirt.

Color Choice Matters
While Mother of Pearl is the icon, it’s also the most traditionally feminine. Most guys are gravitating toward:

  • Onyx: The safe, masculine bet.
  • Tiger’s Eye: Incredible with a tan and gold watch.
  • Malachite: For when you want people to notice you from across the room.
  • Guilloché Gold: The ultimate "stealth wealth" choice because of how it catches the light.

It's Not Just a Trend—It's a Market Shift

According to recent luxury market outlooks for 2026, the men's jewelry segment is outgrowing the general market by nearly 9%. This isn't a flash in the pan. We are seeing a generational shift where Gen Z and Millennial men are prioritizing "icon" pieces over generic "masculine" jewelry.

They want the history. They want the 1906 heritage of the Place Vendôme. They want the craftsmanship of the "Mains d’Or" (the Golden Hands) who spend hundreds of hours on a single piece.

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The Practical Reality of Owning One

Look, these pieces are delicate. Unlike a heavy Cuban link that you can wear to the gym, an Alhambra motif is often made of organic stones like malachite or mother of pearl. They don't like sweat. They hate perfume and cologne.

If you’re going to invest in van cleef on men, you have to be okay with the maintenance. You can’t just "set it and forget it." But that’s almost part of the appeal. It shows you care about the things you own.

Your Move

If you're ready to jump in, start with the Vintage Alhambra Bracelet in Onyx and 18k Yellow Gold. It is the most versatile entry point and holds its value better than almost anything else in the catalog. Skip the "Sweet" collection—the motifs are too small for most men’s wrists and end up looking lost. Go for the "Vintage" size; it has the presence you need.

Check the secondary market for "Guilloché" pieces if you want something that requires less "stone care" than the organic materials. And remember: the best way to wear it is like you forgot you even put it on.


Next Steps for the Collector:

  • Verify Authenticity: Never buy from a third party without a certificate of authenticity and a matching serial number on the piece.
  • Insurance: Add your piece to a personal jewelry rider immediately; these are high-theft/high-loss items due to their recognizable shape.
  • Storage: Keep motifs separated in the original suede pouch to prevent the gold beads from scratching the softer stones.