You know that feeling when you walk into a room and everything just feels... expensive? Not "new money" expensive with loud logos, but that quiet, generational wealth kind of vibe. That is exactly what Van Cleef and Arpels perfume First smells like. Honestly, it’s kinda wild that a scent from 1976 can still make most modern "niche" perfumes look like amateur hour.
Back in the mid-seventies, jewelry houses didn't really do perfume. It was considered a bit beneath them, or at least a distraction from the diamonds. Van Cleef and Arpels decided to break that rule. They wanted to create a "scented ornament." They didn't just want a fragrance; they wanted a liquid gemstone. And man, did they deliver.
The Jean-Claude Ellena Magic
Before he became the legendary "ghost" of Hermès, a young perfumer named Jean-Claude Ellena was tasked with creating this. If you’re a fragrance nerd, you know Ellena is the king of minimalism. He usually makes things that are airy and light. But with First, he went full maximalist.
He basically threw a massive, glowing bouquet of jasmine and rose into a blender with a heavy dose of aldehydes. For the uninitiated, aldehydes are those soapy, "sparkling" chemicals that give perfumes like Chanel No. 5 their lift. But in First, they don't just sparkle—they practically explode.
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Ellena famously used ten times the amount of Hedione (a molecule that makes jasmine smell like it's blooming in the sun) than anyone had ever dared to use before. The result? A fragrance that smells like sunlight hitting a yellow diamond. It's radiant. It's loud. It's unapologetically "French."
What Does Van Cleef and Arpels Perfume First Actually Smell Like?
If you spray this today, the first five minutes might actually scare you. It’s a lot. You get this sharp, green, almost bitter blast of blackcurrant bud and aldehydes. It feels "old school" in a way that might make you think of your grandmother’s vanity.
But you’ve gotta wait. Give it twenty minutes.
The "scary" sharpness settles into this incredibly lush, creamy floral heart. We’re talking:
- Jasmine (The star of the show)
- Narcissus (Giving it a bit of a "dirty," earthy edge)
- Turkish Rose
- Ylang-Ylang
Underneath all that floral drama is a base of oakmoss, civet (yes, the animalic stuff), and honey. That’s what gives it staying power. It doesn’t just disappear after an hour like most of the sugary water we buy at Sephora today. It lingers on your coat for days. It’s got "soul."
The Princess Diana Connection
It’s not just marketing hype; this was actually one of Princess Diana’s favorite scents. Prince Harry even mentioned it in his memoir, Spare. He talked about how the scent of First was so tied to his mother that smelling it during a therapy session helped him unlock suppressed memories.
When a perfume is chosen by a literal icon of style and grace, you know it’s doing something right. It’s the kind of scent you wear when you want to feel "proper" but with a bit of a wink. It’s elegant, but that civet note in the base gives it a tiny bit of growl. It’s a "good girl" with a secret.
Why It’s Still Relevant in 2026
We’ve spent the last decade drowning in "gourmand" scents—everything smells like vanilla, caramel, or toasted marshmallows. Honestly, it’s getting a bit boring. People are starting to crave "real" perfume again. They want scents that have structure and sophistication.
Van Cleef and Arpels perfume First is the antidote to the sugar craze. It’s sophisticated. It’s complex. It’s also surprisingly affordable. You can often find the Eau de Toilette (which is still very strong, by the way) for under $70. Compare that to some "luxury" brands charging $350 for something that lasts twenty minutes.
A Few Things to Keep in Mind
If you're going to hunt down a bottle, here's the lowdown:
- The EDP vs. EDT: The Eau de Parfum is richer, warmer, and more "golden." The Eau de Toilette is actually a bit more "sparkling" and green. Most collectors actually prefer the EDT for daily wear because it’s a bit airier.
- Skin Chemistry is Real: Because of the civet and oakmoss, this perfume reacts wildly differently on different people. On some, it’s a clean, soapy floral. On others, it becomes very musky and deep. You definitely want to test this on your skin, not just a paper strip.
- The Bottle Design: The bottle was designed by Jacques Llorente to look like a pair of "Snowflake" earrings. Even the bottle feels like a piece of high jewelry sitting on your dresser.
Getting the Most Out of First
To wear this without it wearing you, try the "walk through" method. Spray it in the air and walk through the mist. It allows the aldehydes to disperse so you don't get that initial "punch" to the nose.
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It’s also incredible as a "base" for layering. If you have a simple rose or jasmine scent that feels a bit flat, spray a tiny bit of First underneath. It adds a "vintage" backbone that makes any cheap perfume smell like a million bucks.
If you’re tired of smelling like a bakery and want to smell like a woman who knows exactly what she wants, give this one a shot. It’s a masterpiece for a reason.
Actionable Next Steps
- Sample Before You Buy: Don't blind buy a full bottle. Look for a 1ml or 2ml sample on sites like DecantPlanet or Surrender to Chance to see how the aldehydes react with your skin.
- Check the Formulation: If you find a bottle at a discounter, look for the "long" ingredient list on the back. Newer versions are slightly "thinner" due to IFRA regulations on oakmoss, but they still retain the original spirit.
- Layering Experiment: Try pairing First with a modern, clean musk oil to "ground" the aldehydes and make the scent feel more contemporary for daytime use.
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