It’s been years since Apple first dropped macOS 10.13, yet here we are. People are still searching for ways to get this specific OS onto their machines. Maybe you’re reviving an old 2010 MacBook Pro you found in a drawer, or perhaps you're running legacy software like certain versions of Adobe Creative Suite or old Pro Tools plugins that just refuse to play nice with anything newer. Honestly, it makes sense. High Sierra was a massive "under the hood" update that changed the very foundation of how Macs handle data.
Updating to macOS High Sierra isn’t just about getting a new wallpaper. It was the introduction of APFS—the Apple File System. Before this, Macs used HFS+, which was basically ancient tech designed for spinning hard drives. APFS was built for the SSD era. If you're moving from Sierra (10.12) or older, your computer is about to undergo a literal digital organ transplant.
Does Your Mac Actually Support It?
Let’s be real: not every Mac can handle this. If you’re trying to force this onto a machine from 2008, you're going to have a bad time without some serious "patcher" work that Apple definitely doesn't endorse. Officially, if you have a MacBook or iMac from late 2009 or later, you're usually in the clear. MacBook Air, MacBook Pro, Mac mini, and Mac Pro owners need a model from 2010 or later.
Check your "About This Mac" section. If you see "Mid 2010" or something newer, you’ve passed the first vibe check. But here is the thing people forget: RAM. While Apple said 2GB was the minimum, running High Sierra on 2GB of RAM is a form of digital Masochism. You want 4GB at least, though 8GB is where the "it just works" feeling actually kicks in.
The APFS Factor: The Big "Before You Install" Warning
This is where things get hairy. When you start updating to macOS High Sierra, the installer will likely convert your drive to APFS. If you have an SSD, this is great. It makes file copying nearly instantaneous. It’s snappy. It’s modern.
But if you have a fusion drive or an old-school mechanical HDD? High Sierra was originally a bit flaky with them. While later versions of 10.13 stabilized this, the conversion process is a high-stress event for an old, clicking hard drive. This is exactly why you see so many forum posts on MacRumors or Reddit about "stuck at 100%" or "installation failed."
Back up your data. Seriously. Don’t be the person who loses ten years of family photos because they thought a point-release update was "safe." Use Time Machine. Use a Carbon Copy Cloner. Use a thumb drive. Just put your files somewhere else before you click that "Install" button.
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How to Get the Installer (The Hardest Part)
If you open the Mac App Store right now and search for High Sierra, you might see... nothing. Apple has a habit of hiding old OS versions to nudge you toward the newest shiny thing. To find the genuine installer, you usually need a direct link to the App Store page, which Apple hides in their support documentation.
- Open Safari (don't use Chrome for this, it sometimes fails to trigger the App Store link properly).
- Navigate to the official Apple Support page for "How to download macOS."
- Click the High Sierra link.
- It will redirect you to the App Store.
It’s a 5GB download. On a slow Wi-Fi connection, it’ll take forever. Plug in an Ethernet cable if you can. Also, make sure your date and time settings are correct. If your Mac's internal clock is wrong—common on older Macs with dead CMOS batteries—the installer will throw a "damaged" or "signature verification" error because it thinks the security certificate has expired.
The "Clean Install" vs. The "Lazy Way"
You can just run the installer over your current OS. Most people do. It’s fine. Usually.
But if your Mac feels sluggish, a clean install is the move. This involves creating a bootable USB drive. You’ll need a 12GB+ flash drive and a bit of bravery with the Terminal. You use the createinstallmedia command. It sounds intimidating, but it's just a copy-paste job.
Once you boot from that USB (hold the Option key while restarting), you can use Disk Utility to wipe your drive. It’s scary to see that "Erase" button, but it's the only way to get that "new Mac" smell back. Just remember: once you go APFS, older macOS versions won't be able to "see" that drive easily if you decide to downgrade later.
Why 10.13.6 is the Magic Number
If you're updating to macOS High Sierra today, you aren't just going to 10.13. You are going to 10.13.6. This was the final, most stable version. It included the massive security patches for Spectre and Meltdown—those nasty CPU vulnerabilities that dominated news cycles years ago.
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It also added "AirPlay 2" support for iTunes, which is niche but cool if you have old speakers. More importantly, it’s the last version of macOS that supports many 32-bit apps without throwing a constant fit. Mojave (10.14) was the beginning of the end for 32-bit, and Catalina (10.15) killed them entirely. If you have a specific piece of hardware—like an old scanner or a MIDI controller—that hasn't had a driver update since 2012, High Sierra is likely your final destination.
Common Roadblocks You'll Probably Hit
Installation fails are common. If the bar stops moving for two hours, don't just pull the plug. Give it time. High Sierra's file conversion takes a while.
- The "Firmware Update" Loop: Sometimes the installer says you need a firmware update. It’ll try to shut down and beep loudly. This is normal. It’s updating your Mac’s BIOS-equivalent so it can actually understand the new APFS file system.
- Graphic Glitches: If you have a mid-2010 or 2011 MacBook Pro with a dedicated AMD GPU, be careful. High Sierra pushes the metal graphics API harder, and if your chip is already failing, this update might be the straw that breaks the camel's back.
- Certificate Errors: If the installer says it’s "damaged," it’s almost always the system date. Open Terminal in the recovery environment and type
date 0101010118(which sets it to January 1st, 2018) to trick the installer into thinking the certificate is still valid.
Modern Use Cases for High Sierra in 2026
Why bother? Honestly, for most people, you shouldn't. It doesn't receive security updates anymore. Safari is mostly broken on modern websites.
But for a dedicated music production rig? It’s rock solid. For a "distraction-free" writing machine? Perfect. For someone who just wants to browse the web using a 3rd party browser like OpenCore-Legacy or a specialized build of Firefox (like Pale Moon or SeaMonkey)? It works.
Actually, the biggest reason people still do this is the NVIDIA web drivers. High Sierra was the last version of macOS that allowed you to use certain powerful NVIDIA graphics cards (the Pascal series like the GTX 1080 Ti) in a Mac Pro tower. For 3D renders and video editors on a budget, that’s a huge deal.
Actionable Steps to Take Right Now
If you're ready to pull the trigger on updating to macOS High Sierra, don't just wing it.
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Start by checking your drive health with a tool like DriveDx. If your hard drive has "failing sectors," the APFS conversion will kill it. Next, download the installer and, instead of running it, use a tool like "Install Disk Creator" or the Terminal to make a bootable USB. This is your "get out of jail free" card if the update goes sideways.
Verify your software. Check RoaringApps to see if your "must-have" programs work on 10.13. If you're on a version of Office from 2011, expect issues. If you’re using Creative Cloud, you’re mostly fine.
Finally, once the install is done, go to the App Store and run all "Security Updates." There are several "Supplemental Updates" that fixed massive bugs found after the initial 10.13.6 launch. Don't skip them. Your Mac isn't truly updated until the build number (found by clicking the version number in About This Mac) reflects the very latest release.
Get your backup ready. Plug in your power adapter. Start the download. It’s a bit of a process, but for the right machine, High Sierra is a fantastic, lightweight OS that breathes life into "vintage" aluminum.
Check your storage space. You need at least 15GB to 20GB of free space for the installer to breathe. If your drive is red-lining on capacity, clear out your Downloads folder before you even think about starting. High Sierra needs room to move your files around during that APFS migration. Once you're clear, go for it.