You’ve seen the tags. "Unisex." Usually, it means a boxy gray t-shirt that fits nobody quite right. It’s the "safe" middle ground that brands take when they don’t want to commit to a silhouette. But honestly, the world of unisex clothing has shifted into something way more interesting than just hiding the human form under yards of jersey fabric.
It’s about utility. It’s about history.
If we look at how we actually dress today, the lines are blurred to the point of disappearing. Your favorite pair of high-waisted "boyfriend" jeans? That’s unisex in disguise. The chore coat you bought at a vintage stall? It was likely made for a French factory worker in the 1940s who didn't care about gendered buttons. We are living in a post-department-store era where the label on the rack matters significantly less than how the fabric drapes over your shoulders.
Why We Keep Getting Unisex Wrong
Most people think unisex started with Gen Z or maybe some edgy 70s rockstars. Not really.
If you go back to the 1920s, Coco Chanel was famously "borrowing" tweed jackets and sailor pants from her boyfriends. She wasn't trying to make a political statement; she just realized that men’s clothes were more comfortable for living a real life. Fast forward to 1968, and the term "unisex" actually hits the mainstream. Designers like Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges were obsessed with the Space Age. They figured that once we got to the moon, everyone would just wear sleek, silver jumpsuits.
They were wrong about the silver jumpsuits, obviously. But they were right about the trajectory.
The problem is that for the last thirty years, "unisex" became synonymous with "masculine-lite." Brands would take a men’s small, slap a neutral label on it, and call it a day. That's lazy. It ignores the reality of hip-to-waist ratios and shoulder widths. True unisex design today, led by brands like 69 Worldwide or Telfar, focuses on adjustability—drawstrings, wrap waists, and dropped crotches that accommodate different bodies rather than just ignoring them.
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The Psychology of Neutrality
There is a specific kind of freedom in wearing something that doesn't telegraph your gender from a mile away.
Psychologically, it changes how you move. When a woman wears a structured, heavy-wool overcoat designed with a "menswear" cut, she often reports feeling more "armored." Conversely, when men’s fashion adopts softer silks or draped silhouettes traditionally labeled as feminine, it breaks that rigid, boxy expectation of masculinity. It's a vibe shift.
It’s also about the "Shared Closet" economy. Couples—regardless of their gender identity—are increasingly buying high-quality pieces they can both wear. It makes financial sense. Why buy two $300 winter coats when you can buy one incredible unisex piece that fits you both? It’s a move toward minimalism that hits the wallet in a good way.
The Architecture of a Non-Gendered Wardrobe
Building a wardrobe around unisex principles doesn't mean you have to look like a background extra in a dystopian sci-fi movie. You don't need to wear a beige sack.
Instead, look at the "Hero Pieces" that have historically crossed the line:
- The Trench Coat: Originally a British military item. Now, it’s a universal staple. The belt allows for waist definition regardless of your frame.
- The Button-Down: Whether it’s an Oxford or a flannel, the construction is basically identical. The only difference is usually which side the buttons are on—a weird relic from the days when wealthy women were dressed by maids.
- Workwear: Brands like Carhartt or Dickies have been accidentally unisex for decades. A chore coat doesn't care who is wearing it as long as there are tools in the pockets.
- Footwear: Think about Dr. Martens or Birkenstocks. These are genderless icons. A size 40 is a size 40.
The trick is focusing on "point of measure." If a brand is serious about unisex design, they won't just list "Small, Medium, Large." They will provide actual measurements for the neck, sleeve, and inseam. Because bodies are weird and diverse, and a label is just a suggestion.
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The Sustainability Factor
Here is the thing nobody talks about: unisex fashion is actually better for the planet.
When a retailer splits their inventory into "Men’s" and "Women’s," they often end up with massive surpluses in one category while the other sells out. This leads to "deadstock"—perfectly good clothes that end up in a landfill or burned because they didn't fit a specific seasonal gender trend.
By designing unisex collections, brands can streamline their production. They produce fewer "skus" (stock-keeping units), which means less waste. It’s a more efficient way to run a business. This is why you see giant retailers like H&M or Zara constantly dipping their toes into "gender-neutral" capsules. They aren't just being "woke"; they're trying to fix their supply chain issues.
Real-World Examples of the Shift
Look at the red carpet. It used to be tuxedos and gowns. Period.
Now? You have Billy Porter in a tuxedo gown, sure, but you also have people like Timothée Chalamet or Zendaya wearing suits that defy specific categorization. Even Harry Styles’ brand, Pleasing, leans heavily into unisex beauty and apparel. It’s becoming the default for a generation that views gender as a spectrum rather than a binary box.
But it’s not just for celebrities. Walk into any high-end boutique in Soho or East London. You’ll notice the floor plans are changing. The hard wall between the "Men’s Section" and "Women’s Section" is crumbling. Pieces are grouped by color, fabric, or "vibe" rather than who is supposed to wear them.
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Common Misconceptions (Let’s Clear This Up)
- "Unisex is just for skinny people." Wrong. In fact, because unisex clothing often uses oversized or adjustable patterns, it can be significantly more inclusive of different weight classes and body shapes than "slim-fit" gendered clothing.
- "It’s just a trend." History says no. We’ve been moving toward more practical, shared styles since the Industrial Revolution. Heels were originally for men (Persian cavalry). Pink was for boys. Blue was for girls. Everything is in flux.
- "It looks boring." Only if you buy boring clothes. Radical unisex fashion is full of bold prints, avant-garde shapes, and high-performance tech fabrics.
How to Actually Buy Unisex (And Not Look Like a Box)
If you’re ready to dive into a more fluid way of dressing, don’t just buy everything three sizes too big.
Watch the shoulders. This is the biggest giveaway. If the shoulder seam is hanging halfway down your bicep, it’s a "dropped shoulder" look, which is fine, but it can make you look shorter. If you want a sharper look, ensure the seam hits right at the edge of your natural shoulder.
Focus on the fabric weight. Heavy fabrics like denim, heavy cotton, or wool hold their own shape. This is great for unisex styling because the garment provides the structure, not your body. Lighter fabrics like silk or rayon will cling more, which can be trickier to navigate if you're going for a truly neutral silhouette.
Belt it. If you feel lost in a garment, add a belt. It’s the oldest trick in the book. It allows you to take a "one-size-fits-all" piece and customize the silhouette to your specific proportions.
Moving Forward With Your Style
The future of unisex isn't about everyone wearing the same uniform. It’s actually the opposite. It’s about a world where you have more choices, not fewer. It’s about looking at a piece of clothing and asking "Do I like this?" instead of "Is this for me?"
Actionable Next Steps:
- Audit your closet: Find three items you currently own that could be worn by anyone regardless of gender. Notice what they have in common—usually high-quality fabric and simple construction.
- Shop by measurement, not label: Next time you’re online, ignore the "Men’s/Women’s" filters. Look for the size charts. Focus on the actual inches or centimeters.
- Try "Workwear" first: If you're nervous about the look, start with brands like Carhartt or Ben Davis. Their cuts are naturally unisex and have been for over a hundred years.
- Experiment with accessories: Bags, scarves, and jewelry are the easiest entry points. A "tote bag" has no gender. Neither does a silver cuff or a cashmere wrap.
Start with one piece. See how it feels. You might find that the most comfortable version of yourself isn't found in a specific department, but in the space between them.