You probably remember where you were when the news dropped that the woman who designed Meghan Markle’s wedding dress was heading to the high street. It felt like a glitch in the fashion matrix. Clare Waight Keller, the former artistic director of Givenchy and Chloé, joining Uniqlo?
Initially, it was just a capsule. They called it Uniqlo : C. People lined up, the pleated skirts sold out in minutes, and the TikTok "hauls" were inescapable. But then, in late 2024, the brand did something even more radical. They didn't just renew her contract; they made her the Global Creative Director for the entire brand.
This isn't just another designer collab. It’s a total shift in how we buy "basics."
The Pivot from Haute Couture to LifeWear
Most designers who leave the ivory towers of LVMH or Richemont eventually circle back to another luxury house. They want the big budgets and the front-row celebrities. Waight Keller went the other way.
Honestly, the move makes sense when you look at the numbers. While luxury markets have felt a bit "sleepy" lately, the appetite for high-quality, accessible design is exploding. By taking the helm at Uniqlo, she isn't just designing a few cool coats; she is overseeing everything from menswear and womenswear to those little socks you buy on your way to the checkout.
She's basically the architect of the modern uniform now.
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What actually changed in the clothes?
If you've walked into a Uniqlo recently, you might have noticed things feel... different. Not "expensive" in a flashy way, but more considered.
- The Palette: Gone are the days of just "Navy" or "Beige." Waight Keller has been obsessing over colors. In the 2024/2025 collections, she introduced 50 shades of cashmere alone.
- The Silhouette: We're seeing more "fluidity." That’s her word. It means trousers that actually drape and jackets that don't feel like cardboard.
- The "C" Signature: The sub-label Uniqlo : C serves as her laboratory. It's where she tests out things like PUFFTECH—that's the ultra-lightweight, seam-free tech stuff—and technical tweeds that look vintage but feel like a hoodie.
Why Uniqlo : C Became a Permanent Fixture
The "C" stands for many things: Curiosity, Conversation, City, Clarity, and, of course, Clare.
What started as a womenswear experiment quickly ate the rest of the store. By the Spring/Summer 2025 and Autumn/Winter 2025 drops, the line became heavily genderless. You’ll see men buying the oversized women’s coats and women living in the men’s wide-leg sweats.
She often talks about the "propulsive rhythm of city life." The 2024 Autumn collection was famously inspired by the Barbican in London. You can see it in the brutalist lines—clean, sharp, but somehow soft. It’s a weird balance to strike, but she’s doing it.
The Cate Blanchett Factor
It’s not every day a high-street brand lands a campaign with Cate Blanchett. For the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, Blanchett became the face of the line. It signaled that this isn't "fast fashion." It's "LifeWear" that’s meant to last.
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The campaign focused on motion. Everything was blurry, moving, active. It reflects Waight Keller's philosophy: we are all running places. If a skirt looks great in a photo but you can't climb a flight of stairs in it, she isn't interested.
The Logistics of Design at Scale
Designing for a brand like Uniqlo is a different beast than Givenchy. At Givenchy, you might make 10 versions of a dress for one person. At Uniqlo, you’re making one jacket for millions of people.
Waight Keller has been surprisingly candid about the "production naivety" some designers have. She’s had to learn how to make a $49.90 sweatshirt look like it costs $400 across a full range of sizes from XXS to 3XL. That involves adding shape to the upper back or adjusting the hip volume so it doesn't just hang there like a sack.
It’s lazy design to just scale a pattern up without changing the proportions. She doesn't do lazy.
What to look for in the 2026 collections
As we move through 2026, the influence of the Uniqlo Clare Waight Keller partnership is hitting its peak.
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- Eyewear Relaunch: Keep an eye on the accessories. She’s been quietly reworking the entire eyewear line to make it feel more "designer" and less "gas station."
- Footwear Expansion: She’s on a mission to fix the "bad selection" of flat shoes in the market. Her loafers and ballerina flats are becoming staples.
- Modern Tweeds: Expect more technical fabrics that mimic heavy wools but weigh almost nothing.
Getting the Most Out of the Collection
If you’re looking to shop the Uniqlo : C line or the mainline pieces she’s touched, don’t just buy your usual size.
A lot of her work is designed to be oversized or "fluid." If you want a sharper look, size down. If you want that effortless "I just threw this on" vibe, stay true to size but pay attention to the drape.
The best part? These pieces are designed to be "seasonless." You can wear a piece from the 2024 collection with a new skirt from 2026 and the colors will actually coordinate. She’s building a system, not just a wardrobe.
Your Next Steps for a Better Wardrobe:
- Audit your basics: Look for pieces that feel "stiff." Replace them with items featuring the fluid silhouettes Keller is known for.
- Check the "C" labels: If you want the most "fashion-forward" cuts, stick to the specific Uniqlo : C sub-brand.
- Mix the sections: Don't be afraid to wander into the men's or women's sections regardless of your gender. The tailoring is increasingly interchangeable.
- Focus on PUFFTECH: If you’re traveling, her PUFFTECH outerwear is a game-changer for packing light without sacrificing the "put-together" look.