You’re probably used to the idea of Borneo being a place where the rainforest is constantly under threat. We hear the stories about palm oil and deforestation all the time. But there is this one weird little corner of the island where that didn't happen. Brunei. Specifically, Ulu Temburong National Park. Because of the country's oil wealth, they never really felt the pressure to log their primary forests. The result is basically a time capsule.
It’s wild.
Most people visiting Southeast Asia just skip Brunei entirely. They think it’s too quiet or too expensive. Honestly, if you’re looking for nightlife, it’s a pass. But if you want to see what Borneo looked like before the 20th century, you have to get to Temburong. It’s 50,000 hectares of pure, unadulterated jungle. No roads lead into the heart of it. You can't just drive there. You have to take a boat. Actually, you have to take two boats.
Getting to Ulu Temburong National Park: It’s Not Exactly a Walk in the Park
First off, the geography is kind of a mess. Temburong is an exclave. It’s separated from the rest of Brunei by a slice of Malaysia. It used to be that you had to take a terrifyingly fast speedboat from Bandar Seri Begawan, weave through mangrove channels, and clear immigration twice. Now, they’ve built the Sultan Haji Omar 'Ali Saifuddien Bridge. It’s one of the longest over-water bridges in Southeast Asia. It’s huge. It makes the trip easier, but it hasn't really changed the "remote" vibe of the park itself.
Once you get to Bangar, the main town in the district, you still aren't "there."
The only way into the actual Ulu Temburong National Park is by temuai. These are long, narrow wooden boats with outboard motors. You’ll sit single file. If the water is low, which happens a lot during the dry season, your guide might actually have to jump out and push the boat over the pebbles. It’s noisy, it’s splashy, and it’s the only way to penetrate the interior. You’re essentially following the Temburong River upstream until the trees start leaning over the water so far they block out the sun.
The Canopy Walkway: Don’t Look Down (Or Do)
If you’ve looked up photos of Brunei, you’ve seen the towers. The Canopy Walkway is the park’s claim to fame. But here’s what they don’t tell you: the climb to get to the base of the towers is a brutal series of wooden stairs. It’s humid. Like, "soaked through your shirt in five minutes" humid.
🔗 Read more: Why an Escape Room Stroudsburg PA Trip is the Best Way to Test Your Friendships
The structure itself is a massive engineering feat. It’s a series of aluminum towers connected by walkways, suspended about 50 meters above the forest floor. It’s not a rope bridge. It’s solid. But it still sways. If you have vertigo, it’s your nightmare. If you don't, it’s the most incredible view in the country. You are literally looking down on the tops of Dipterocarp trees that have been growing for centuries.
Most rainforest tours take you through the mud at the bottom. That's fine, but you miss 90% of the life. The birds, the insects, the monkeys—they’re all up there. When you’re on that aluminum grid at 6:00 AM, and the mist is rising off the Belalong River below, it feels like you're on another planet.
Why the Biodiversity Here is Different
Scientists have been obsessed with this place for decades. The Kuala Belalong Field Studies Centre (KBFSC) is located right inside the park boundaries. It’s a joint venture between Universiti Brunei Darussalam and various international partners. They’ve discovered species here that exist nowhere else on Earth.
We aren't just talking about big stuff like Proboscis monkeys, though you’ll probably see those near the riverbanks. We’re talking about the weird stuff. The "Exploding Ants" (Colobopsis saundersi). These things literally rupture their own bodies to spray toxic glue on predators. It’s metal. Then there’s the Wallace’s Flying Frog. It’s got huge webbed feet that it uses to glide from the canopy. You won't see these things on a standard "zoo" tour. You have to look. You have to be quiet.
The "No Roads" Rule
Brunei’s government is surprisingly strict about the "Ulu" part of the name—ulu means "upstream" or "remote." There is a hard limit on how many people can enter per day. There are no hotels inside the national park itself. None. You stay at "luxury" eco-camps or lodges just outside the border, like Ulu Ulu Resort or Freme Rainforest Lodge.
This lack of infrastructure is a feature, not a bug.
💡 You might also like: Why San Luis Valley Colorado is the Weirdest, Most Beautiful Place You’ve Never Been
In places like Taman Negara in Malaysia or the jungles in Thailand, the trails are often packed. In Ulu Temburong National Park, you can go hours without seeing another human soul who isn't in your boat. It’s silent. Except for the cicadas. Those things can hit 100 decibels. It sounds like a circular saw going off right next to your ear.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Trip
A lot of travelers think they can just "wing it." You can’t.
Because the park is so protected, you are legally required to enter with a registered guide. Don't try to show up at the riverbank with a backpack and hope to hitch a ride on a longboat. It doesn't work that way. You need a permit, and the permits are handled by the tour operators.
Also, people underestimate the fitness level. You don't need to be an Olympic athlete, but you are going to be climbing hundreds of stairs in 95% humidity. If you have knee issues, the descent from the canopy towers is going to be a problem.
And the leeches. Oh, the leeches.
They aren't dangerous, just annoying. If it’s rained recently, they’ll be out. Wear long socks. Use tobacco water if you're old school, or just lots of DEET. Honestly, the fear of leeches is usually worse than the actual bite. You won't even feel it until you see a little red spot on your sock later.
📖 Related: Why Palacio da Anunciada is Lisbon's Most Underrated Luxury Escape
Night Walks and Hidden Waterfalls
If you stay overnight—and you really should—do the night walk. The jungle completely transforms after the sun goes down. Your headlamp will catch the eyes of spiders that look like diamonds on the forest floor. You might see the Bornean Keeled Pit Viper. It’s bright green and usually just hangs out on a branch looking like a leaf.
Then there’s the Sungai Pandaruan waterfall. It’s a side trip most people take after the canopy walk. It’s a small fall, but there’s a pool at the bottom full of "doctor fish" (Garra rufa). These are the same fish people pay $50 for in high-end spas to nibble the dead skin off their feet. Here, it’s free. It tickles like crazy.
The Reality of Conservation in Brunei
It’s worth noting that Brunei's approach to Ulu Temburong National Park is somewhat unique in the region. Since the economy is heavily dependent on the oil and gas sector (which is mostly offshore), there hasn't been the same economic desperation to clear-cut the hills for timber.
This has created a "Fortress Conservation" model.
It works, but it means the park is very much a "look but don't touch" zone. You won't find mountain biking trails or zip lines. This is a place for observation. It’s for people who want to understand the sheer complexity of a pristine ecosystem. If you’re looking for high-octane adventure sports, you’re in the wrong country. If you want to hear the "Whoop-whoop" of a Gibbon at dawn, you’re in the right place.
Practical Tips for the Journey
- Timing: Go between March and October. The rainy season (November to February) can make the river levels too high and dangerous, or the trails too washed out to enjoy.
- Gear: Waterproof everything. Even if it doesn't rain, the boat ride will get you wet. A dry bag is not optional; it’s a necessity for your camera gear.
- Footwear: Forget heavy hiking boots. They’ll just get waterlogged and heavy. Cheap "Kampung Adidas" (rubber studded shoes) are what the locals wear, and they’re the best thing for gripping wet rocks.
- Cash: There are no ATMs once you leave Bangar. Bring enough BND (Brunei Dollars) for tips or extra snacks.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Visit
If you're actually going to do this, don't just book a day trip from the capital. You'll spend four hours traveling and only two hours in the forest. It’s a waste.
- Book a 2D/1N package. This gives you the evening and early morning—the only times the animals are actually active.
- Check your permits. Ensure your tour operator includes the national park entry permit in their quote.
- Pack light. You'll be transferring between multiple boats. A massive suitcase is a nightmare. A small 20L waterproof backpack is plenty.
- Respect the silence. The guides are incredibly good at spotting wildlife, but they won't find anything if you're chatting loudly on the trail.
Ulu Temburong is one of the few places left where the forest feels like it’s winning. It’s massive, it’s intimidating, and it’s completely indifferent to your presence. That’s exactly why it’s worth the effort to get there. In a world that's being paved over, a place that requires two boats and a thousand stairs just to see the view is a rare thing indeed.