Bali is changing. If you’ve been to Canggu lately, you know exactly what I mean—the traffic is a nightmare, the rice fields are disappearing under concrete, and that "spiritual" vibe everyone talks about feels increasingly like a marketing gimmick. But then there’s Kaba-Kaba. It’s a tiny village just inland from the coast, and it’s where you’ll find Ulaman Eco Luxury Resort. This place isn't just another hotel with a few solar panels and a "no plastic straws" policy. It’s a weird, beautiful, and deeply ambitious experiment in what happens when you let an eco-obsessed visionary build a playground out of bamboo and rammed earth.
Honestly, the first time you see the structure, it feels a bit like stumbling onto a futuristic movie set in the middle of the jungle. It’s curvy. It’s massive. Most importantly, it’s built almost entirely from materials found right on the island.
The Architecture That Shouldn't Really Work
Most "eco-resorts" are just standard concrete buildings with some wood trim. Ulaman is different because it relies on biophilic design. That’s a fancy way of saying the buildings are designed to mimic nature rather than fight it. The mastermind behind the look is Inspiral Architecture and Design Studios. They didn't want boxes; they wanted cocoons.
The resort is famous for its use of bamboo. Not just as decoration, but as the actual bones of the villas. Bamboo is incredible because it grows so fast—some species can grow three feet in a single day—and it sequesters carbon like crazy. But it’s also a pain to work with because no two poles are the same. You can’t just go to a hardware store and buy a "standard" bamboo beam. Every piece at Ulaman Eco Luxury Resort had to be hand-selected, treated with natural salts to prevent insects from eating it, and then curved into those gravity-defying shapes you see in the photos.
Then there’s the rammed earth.
This is an ancient technique where you literally compress layers of soil and clay into a solid wall. It’s labor-intensive as hell. But the result? Walls that breathe. They keep the rooms cool in the brutal Bali humidity without needing the AC to run at full blast 24/7. Plus, the layers of earth create this beautiful, wavy pattern that looks like a geological map. It feels grounded. It feels real.
Living Inside a Sculpture
Staying here feels... different. You aren't in a sealed-off hotel room. The "Lake Villa" or the "Cocoons" are designed to let the air move. You hear the river. You hear the frogs. Sometimes a gecko might decide to hang out on your ceiling. If you’re the kind of person who needs a sterile, marble-clad Marriott experience, you might find it jarring. But if you want to actually feel like you’re in Indonesia, it’s unbeatable.
The custom-made wooden bathtubs are a highlight. They aren't those cheap acrylic tubs; they are carved pieces of art. Soaking in one while looking out at the Ulaman waterfall is basically the peak Bali experience.
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Is It Actually Sustainable or Just Good PR?
Let's get real for a second. The word "eco" is thrown around so much in the travel industry that it has almost lost all meaning. I’ve stayed at "eco-resorts" that still use diesel generators and dump their greywater into the nearest creek.
Ulaman Eco Luxury Resort tries harder.
- The Micro-Hydro System: This is the big one. The resort is located next to a junction of rivers. They installed a micro-hydro turbine that uses the flow of the water to generate electricity. It doesn't power the entire resort—Bali's power needs are high—but it’s a massive dent in their carbon footprint.
- Zero-Waste Ambitions: They use a bio-septic system. This means their wastewater is treated naturally using plants and filters until it’s clean enough to go back into the land.
- No Cement (Mostly): By using rammed earth and bamboo, they avoided the massive carbon emissions associated with concrete production. Concrete is one of the dirtiest industries on earth, and Ulaman proved you can build luxury without it.
The resort owner, Dino Magnatta, didn't just want a hotel; he wanted a proof of concept. He’s often quoted saying he wanted to show that "luxury doesn't have to come at the cost of the environment." It’s a lofty goal, and while no resort with a swimming pool is truly "zero impact," Ulaman is closer than 99% of its competitors.
The Wellness Side: More Than Just Yoga
You can’t have a Bali resort without a spa, obviously. But the wellness center here—called the Ulaman Waterfall Spa—is built right into the cliffside. The sound of the rushing water isn't a recording played over speakers; it’s the actual river five feet away.
They do the standard massages, sure. But they also lean into sound healing and holistic treatments. They have this massive salt room which is supposed to be great for respiratory health. Does it work? Some people swear by it. Others just like the way the purple light looks against the salt crystals. Either way, it’s incredibly relaxing.
The yoga shala is another bamboo masterpiece. It’s an open-air pavilion that looks like a giant ribcage. Doing a downward dog while staring into the jungle canopy is a vibe. It’s quiet. Unlike Ubud, which can sometimes feel like a "wellness theme park," the atmosphere at Ulaman feels private. You aren't competing for space with 50 other influencers trying to film their sun salutations.
What’s on the Menu?
The food is "farm-to-table," another buzzword, but here it actually makes sense. They have their own organic gardens. The menu is a mix of Balinese flavors and Western health food. You'll find things like:
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- Crispy duck (a Balinese staple) with locally sourced spices.
- Plant-based bowls that actually taste like something.
- Fresh fruit that hasn't spent three days in a shipping container.
They focus on "slow food." Don't come here if you're in a rush. The service is friendly, very Balinese (meaning lots of smiles and genuine conversation), but it moves at the pace of the jungle. Lean into it.
The Reality Check: Who Is This For?
Look, Ulaman Eco Luxury Resort isn't for everyone. It’s located in Tabanan. If you want to go clubbing at Finns or Potato Head every night, you’re going to spend two hours in a car each way. It’s isolated. That’s the point.
It’s for the traveler who is burnt out on the "standard" luxury experience. If you’ve stayed in a thousand Four Seasons and they’ve all started to blend together, Ulaman will wake you up. It’s for the design nerds. It’s for the couples who want to actually talk to each other without the hum of a city in the background.
It’s also not cheap. You’re paying for the craftsmanship and the privacy. But compared to the prices of the high-end resorts in Uluwatu or Nusa Dua, the value proposition at Ulaman is actually quite strong, especially considering you're staying in a literal architectural landmark.
The "Secret" Second Phase
A lot of people don't realize that Ulaman expanded. The original part of the resort is great, but the newer "Phase 2" took things even further. They added more villas and a larger restaurant area. The design got even more ambitious. The new structures look like giant lotus flowers or meditation pods.
One thing to watch out for: because the resort is so integrated with nature, there are stairs. Lots of them. The paths wind up and down the riverbank. If you have mobility issues, this might be a tough sell. But for everyone else, those winding paths are part of the charm. You never quite know what’s around the next bend—a hidden meditation spot, a small pond, or a view of the forest.
Why Tabanan Is the "Real" Bali
Tabanan is often called the "rice bowl" of Bali. It’s where the best terraces are (Jatiluwih is a short drive away). By staying at Ulaman Eco Luxury Resort, you’re supporting a part of the island that hasn't been completely paved over yet.
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The local community in Kaba-Kaba is still very much a traditional village. You’ll see ceremonies, you’ll see farmers, and you’ll see a side of life that has vanished from places like Kuta. The resort hires locally, which is crucial. It’s not just an island of luxury for foreigners; it’s an ecosystem that involves the neighbors.
How to Get the Most Out of Your Stay
If you're planning to book, don't just stay for one night. It takes at least 24 hours just for your brain to adjust to the silence and the humidity.
- Book a Cocoon Upper Floor: The views of the canopy are significantly better, and you get more of a breeze.
- Do the Sound Healing: Even if you think it's "woo-woo," the acoustics in the bamboo structures are incredible. The vibration of the gongs against the wood is something you have to feel.
- Explore Kaba-Kaba: Take one of the resort's bikes and just ride through the village. Don't have a destination. Just look at the temples and the rice fields.
- Pack light: You don't need fancy clothes here. Linen, sandals, and a good camera are all you really need.
The Big Picture
The travel industry is at a crossroads. We can keep building massive concrete blocks that look the same in Bali as they do in Dubai, or we can build things like Ulaman Eco Luxury Resort. Is it perfect? No. Is it a massive step in the right direction? Absolutely.
It proves that you can have a private pool, a five-star meal, and a high-end spa experience without feeling like you’re destroying the very place you came to see. It’s about harmony. It’s about building with the earth, not on top of it.
If you want to understand where Bali is headed—or where it should be headed—this is the place to start. It’s a bit wild, a bit experimental, and completely unforgettable.
Practical Steps for Your Trip
To make this happen, start by checking their direct website for seasonal "Staycation" or "Long Stay" deals, which are common in the shoulder seasons (April-June and September-October). Arrange your airport transfer through the resort; the roads in Tabanan are narrow and can be confusing for standard ride-share drivers who aren't familiar with the area. Finally, leave your "city expectations" at the door. Embrace the humidity, the architecture, and the slower pace of the jungle. Your nervous system will thank you.