You’ve probably stared at the mirror and wondered if you could actually pull off a goatee. Or maybe you're just tired of the "sandpaper" phase of three-day stubble. Picking between the different types of facial hair on men isn't just about following a trend or mimicking a celebrity you saw on Instagram. Honestly, it’s mostly about geometry. It’s about how hair grows on your specific face, the density of your follicles, and how much time you’re willing to spend with a trimmer in your hand on a Tuesday morning.
Let's be real. Not every guy can grow a thick, "lumberjack" beard. Genetics are a bit of a lottery. If your beard grows in patchy, trying to force a full-fledge ZZ Top look is just going to make you look unkempt. But that doesn't mean you're stuck with a clean shave. There is always a style that fits.
The Stubble Spectrum: More Than Just Not Shaving
Stubble is the most common of all types of facial hair on men because it’s low effort, but there’s a massive difference between "I forgot to shave for two days" and an intentional, groomed look.
Designer stubble—think 3mm to 5mm—is often cited in studies, like those from the University of New South Wales, as being the most attractive facial hair length to a broad audience. It provides definition to the jawline without hiding the face. To get this right, you can't just let it grow. You have to define the neckline. A good rule of thumb? Two fingers above your Adam's apple. Everything below that should be skin-smooth. If you let the neck hair migrate down toward your chest, you've officially entered "neglected" territory.
Heavy stubble, often called the "10-day beard," requires a bit more maintenance. You’ll need a trimmer with adjustable guards to keep it uniform. Because the hair is short, it tends to be sharp. Using a basic moisturizer or a very light beard oil helps soften those bristles so you don't irritate your skin—or anyone else's.
The Classic Full Beard and the "Yeard"
The full beard is the gold standard. It’s a statement. But it’s also a commitment.
A true full beard usually takes about two to four months to fully realize. This is where most men quit because of "the itch." Around week three, the hair curls back and pokes the skin. If you can push past that, you've got a canvas.
🔗 Read more: Why Everyone Is Still Obsessing Over Maybelline SuperStay Skin Tint
Keeping It Proportional
A full beard shouldn't just be a bush. You have to shape it according to your face shape.
- Round faces: Keep the sides (sideburns and cheeks) short and let the length grow at the chin. This elongates the face.
- Square faces: You already have the jawline. Keep the beard fuller on the chin but rounded off to soften the angles.
- Oval faces: You won the genetic lottery. Most types of facial hair on men look good on you. Go wild.
There’s also the "Yeard"—a year of growth without trimming. It’s a badge of honor in the beard community, but let's be honest, it's a nightmare for professional environments unless you are extremely diligent with a brush and balm. Without maintenance, a Yeard can quickly look like a bird's nest.
The Rise of the "Corporate Beard"
In the last decade, the workplace has loosened up. You don’t have to be a tech mogul to have facial hair in an office anymore. The "Corporate Beard" is typically kept at a length of about half an inch to an inch. The key is the "line up."
You want crisp, clean lines on the upper cheeks. If you have stray hairs climbing toward your eyes, pluck or shave them. The goal is to look like you chose this look, not like you’re recovering from a long weekend. Professionalism in facial hair is defined by the borders, not the length.
Partial Styles: Goatees, Van Dykes, and the Rest
Sometimes you can't grow hair on your cheeks. It happens. This is where partial styles come in.
The Goatee is polarizing. It had a massive peak in the 90s and then became a bit of a meme. However, a modern goatee—where the mustache and chin hair are connected in a circle—can still work if kept short.
💡 You might also like: Coach Bag Animal Print: Why These Wild Patterns Actually Work as Neutrals
Then there’s the Van Dyke. Named after the 17th-century painter Anthony van Dyck, this style features a floating mustache and a pointed chin beard. They do NOT connect. It’s a sophisticated look, but it requires daily precision with a razor. It says, "I am a man who owns several fountain pens." It’s bold.
The Balbo
Named after Italo Balbo, this is basically an inverted 'T' on the chin with a detached mustache. It’s great for men with weak chins or those who have a "soul patch" that grows in thicker than the rest. Robert Downey Jr. famously rocked this for years, making it a staple for men who want something stylish but not overwhelming.
Mustaches: The Ultimate Confidence Test
You have to be confident to wear a mustache. There’s no hiding.
The "Chevron" is the classic—thick, wide, and covering the top lip. Think Tom Selleck. It’s masculine and timeless. Then you have the "Handlebar," which requires wax and a lot of patience to curl the ends.
A lot of guys are moving toward the "Beardstache." This is where you grow a full, prominent mustache but keep the rest of your face in heavy stubble. It’s a great middle ground. It gives you the "toughness" of a mustache without the starkness of a bare chin. It’s currently one of the most popular types of facial hair on men in urban fashion hubs like London and New York.
Maintenance is Not Optional
If you think growing a beard means you save time on grooming, you’re wrong. It just changes how you spend that time.
📖 Related: Bed and Breakfast Wedding Venues: Why Smaller Might Actually Be Better
- Wash it: Don't use regular hair shampoo. It’s too harsh for facial skin and strips the natural oils (sebum). Use a dedicated beard wash.
- Oil it: Beard oil isn't just for the hair; it’s for the skin underneath. It prevents "beardruff" (dandruff in your beard).
- Brush it: Use a boar bristle brush. It trains the hairs to grow in one direction and helps distribute oils.
- Trim the "mustache lip": Nothing ruins a look faster than mustache hairs hanging over your mouth and getting into your food. Use small scissors to keep the line just above the lip.
The Patchy Beard Problem
Let's address the elephant in the room: many men have patches. If your hair doesn't connect, don't panic. Sometimes, just letting it grow for an extra month allows the longer hairs to lay over the bald spots.
If that doesn't work, lean into it. Go for a style that only grows where your hair is thick. If your chin and mustache are strong but the cheeks are bare, go for a Van Dyke or a goatee. Don't fight your DNA. You will lose.
Tools of the Trade
You don't need a hundred gadgets. You need a high-quality electric trimmer with various guards, a safety razor for clean lines, and a pair of sharp grooming scissors. Brands like Wahl or Philips Norelco are standard for a reason—they last.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Look
Instead of just wondering what might look good, take a systematic approach to your facial hair.
- Stop shaving for two weeks. Just let it go. See where the density is and where the patches are. This is your baseline.
- Identify your face shape. Stand in front of a mirror and trace your face outline on the glass with a bar of soap. Is it a circle? A rectangle? A heart?
- Choose a "Target Style" based on that shape. If you have a round face, aim for something with length on the chin.
- Invest in one bottle of quality beard oil. Even if you only have stubble, it changes the texture of the hair and the health of your skin.
- Define your neckline early. This is the number one mistake. Keep the neck clean to ensure the beard looks intentional.
The reality is that types of facial hair on men are as varied as the men themselves. There is no "perfect" beard, only the one that makes you feel most like yourself. Whether that’s a rugged five-o'clock shadow or a meticulous Balbo, the secret is in the maintenance and the confidence to wear it.