You’ve probably spent a small fortune on "miracle" creams that did absolutely nothing but leave your hair crunchy or greasy. It’s frustrating. Honestly, most people are just guessing. They see a bottle with a pretty picture and hope for the best, but the reality is that your hair has a very specific DNA. If you don't know your specific types of curls hair, you’re basically throwing spaghetti at a wall.
Hair isn't just "curly" or "straight." It’s a spectrum. Back in the 90s, a stylist named Andre Walker—who famously worked with Oprah—created a typing system that changed everything. While it’s been tweaked over the years by the natural hair community, the core logic remains: your curl pattern is determined by the shape of your follicle. A round follicle gives you straight hair. An oval or flat one? That’s where the magic (and the frizz) happens.
If you’ve ever looked in the mirror and seen three different textures on one head, don't panic. That’s actually the norm. Most of us are a "hair cocktail" of different patterns.
Understanding the Number System (It's Not That Complicated)
The industry breaks things down into four main categories. Type 1 is straight. We aren't here for that today. We’re looking at Type 2 (waves), Type 3 (curls), and Type 4 (coils). Within those, you have sub-types A, B, and C. These letters generally refer to the diameter of your curl.
Think of it like this: "A" is a wide diameter, "B" is medium, and "C" is the tightest.
Type 2: The Wavy Spectrum
Type 2 hair is often the most misunderstood. People with 2A hair frequently think they just have "frizzy straight hair" until they use the right product. 2A is a fine, thin texture with a very loose S-shape. It’s easy to weigh down. If you put a heavy shea butter on 2A hair, it’s going to look like a grease slick by noon.
Then you have 2B. This is that classic "surfer girl" texture. The wave starts a bit further down from the roots. It’s got more resistance than 2A but still loses its shape easily if you touch it too much while it’s drying.
2C is where things get interesting. This is the bridge between a wave and a curl. It’s thick. It’s prone to serious frizz. The waves start right at the root, and you might even see a few actual ringlets forming. The biggest struggle here? Humidity. 2C hair acts like a sponge for moisture in the air, which leads to that "poof" factor we all love to hate.
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The Big Curls: Getting Into Type 3
When people talk about types of curls hair, Type 3 is usually what pops into their head first. These are the defined, springy loops.
3A curls are roughly the size of a piece of sidewalk chalk. They’re big, loose, and usually have a lot of shine because the hair surface is flat enough to reflect light. However, they are temperamental. One wrong move with a brush and you’re a dandelion.
- 3B Curls: These are tighter, maybe the circumference of a Sharpie marker. They have a lot of volume.
- 3C Curls: Often called "curly-coily." These are packed together densely. Think of the circumference of a drinking straw or a pencil.
3C hair is a bit of a turning point. It’s the densest of the Type 3s and has the most volume, but it’s also where dryness starts to become a real, daily battle. Because the curl is so tight, the natural oils from your scalp (sebum) have a hard time traveling down the hair shaft. Your roots might be oily while your ends are screaming for help.
Type 4: The Beauty of Coils and Kinks
Type 4 hair is the most fragile. That’s a fact that surprises people because it looks so thick and strong. In reality, every bend in a 4A, 4B, or 4C strand is a potential breaking point.
4A hair has a visible S-pattern when stretched. It’s wiry but holds moisture better than its cousins. 4B, on the other hand, doesn't really "curl." It "zigs." It’s a Z-shaped pattern with sharp angles. Because of these angles, light doesn't reflect off it easily, so it can look matte or dull even when it’s perfectly healthy.
Then there’s 4C. This is the tightest of all types of curls hair. It might not have a defined pattern at all unless you use specific styling techniques. The "shrinkage" is real here—4C hair can shrink up to 75% of its actual length. It’s like a magic trick. You have ten inches of hair, but it looks like two.
Expert stylists like Vernon François often emphasize that 4C hair isn't "hard" to manage; it just requires a different language. You aren't fighting the hair; you’re working with its structural integrity.
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Porosity: The Secret Variable Everyone Ignores
You can know your curl type and still fail. Why? Porosity.
This is basically your hair’s ability to soak up and hold onto water. If you have High Porosity, your hair cuticles are wide open. Water goes in fast, but it evaporates just as quickly. You need heavy sealants—oils and butters—to lock that moisture in.
Low Porosity hair is the opposite. The cuticles are shut tight like shingles on a roof. Water literally beads up and rolls off. If you have low porosity, you need heat to open those cuticles. Use a steamer or a warm towel when deep conditioning, or those expensive products are just sitting on top of your head doing nothing.
To test this, take a clean strand of hair and drop it in a glass of water.
- Sinks immediately? High porosity.
- Floats in the middle? Medium/Normal.
- Stays on top forever? Low porosity.
Stop Making These Mistakes
Most people treat their curls like straight hair that’s just "acting up." Stop it.
First, throw away your standard brush. Unless you’re detangling with a ton of conditioner in the shower, a brush is just a frizz-making machine. Use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb.
Second, the "towel scrub." Stop rubbing your head with a terry cloth towel. The tiny loops in the fabric snag your hair and rip the cuticle. Use an old cotton T-shirt or a microfiber towel. Squeeze the water out; don't rub.
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Third, skipping the leave-in. Curls need a base layer. Even if you’re a Type 2A, a lightweight leave-in spray is your best friend. For Type 4s, the L.C.O. (Liquid, Cream, Oil) or L.O.C. method is basically mandatory for survival.
Real-World Example: The "Casting" Trick
Many people apply gel and then freak out because their hair feels hard. That’s called a "cast," and it’s actually a good thing. It protects the curl while it dries. Once it’s 100% dry, you "scrunch out the crunch" with a tiny bit of oil on your hands. Underneath that hard shell are soft, defined curls that will actually last more than three hours.
How to Build Your Actual Routine
Don't buy a whole line of products at once. Start small.
If you are Type 2, focus on volume. Use mouses and foams. Avoid anything with "Heavy," "Butter," or "Extra Rich" on the label. Your goal is weightless definition.
If you are Type 3, you need balance. A sulfate-free shampoo is non-negotiable because you need to keep your natural oils. Look for products with humectants like aloe vera or honey to draw moisture in, but follow up with a medium-weight cream to hold the shape.
If you are Type 4, moisture is your full-time job. Co-washing (washing with conditioner instead of shampoo) can be a lifesaver, but make sure you use a clarifying shampoo once or twice a month to get rid of buildup. Deep condition every single week. No excuses.
Moving Forward With Your Curls
The "perfect" hair day is a myth, but consistent results aren't. Your hair changes with the weather, your hormones, and even the hardness of your water. Pay attention to how it feels, not just how it looks. If it feels "mushy" or overly soft, you might have too much moisture and need a protein treatment. If it snaps easily, you’re lacking moisture.
Start by identifying your porosity tonight. That glass of water test takes two minutes and will tell you more than a dozen TikTok tutorials ever could. Once you know if your hair is "thirsty" or "guarded," choosing products becomes a science rather than a gamble.
Invest in a silk or satin pillowcase. It sounds extra, but friction is the enemy of every curl type. Reducing that friction while you sleep means less detangling in the morning and less breakage over time. Your curls are an investment; treat them like one.