Walk into any high-end menswear shop like Drake’s in London or even a J.Crew in a suburban mall, and you’re immediately hit with a wall of cotton. It’s overwhelming. Most guys just grab whatever looks "blue enough" or "white enough" and head for the register. But honestly, the difference between looking like a C-suite executive and looking like you’re wearing your big brother’s hand-me-downs usually comes down to about three inches of fabric right under your chin. We’re talking about types of collar shirts for men, a topic that seems boring until you realize that a spread collar can make a thin face look fuller, while a point collar does the exact opposite.
Details matter.
If you’ve ever felt like your tie was "floating" or your collar was disappearing under your blazer lapels, you probably picked the wrong style. It happens. Menswear is full of these weird, unwritten rules that nobody bothers to explain. You just see guys like David Gandy or Mahershala Ali looking effortless and wonder why your own shirt looks like a crumpled paper bag by 2:00 PM.
The Workhorse: Why the Button-Down Collar Still Reigns
The button-down collar is the undisputed king of American style. It’s got history. Originally, it was for polo players who didn't want their collars flapping in their faces while they were galloping around. Brooks Brothers brought it to the masses in the late 1800s, and it hasn't left since.
It’s casual. But it’s also not.
You can wear a button-down collar with a knit tie and a navy blazer and look incredibly sharp in a "I’m not trying too hard" sort of way. This is the hallmark of the Ivy Style. The key here is the "roll." A good button-down collar shouldn't lay flat against the shirt; it should have a gentle, S-shaped curve. If the collar is too short or the buttons are placed too high, that roll disappears, and the shirt looks cheap. Brands like Mercer & Sons or Wythe are obsessed with this specific curve. They get it. Most fast-fashion brands don't.
Don't wear this to a black-tie wedding. Just don't. It’s too sporty. It belongs at the office, on a date at a bistro, or at a Sunday brunch where you’re trying to look like you didn't just roll out of bed.
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The Spread Collar and Its Many Moods
If the button-down is the American classic, the spread collar is its more sophisticated European cousin. The distance between the collar points is wider, which leaves plenty of room for a substantial tie knot. Think of a Windsor or a half-Windsor.
There’s a spectrum here:
- The Semi-Spread: This is your safest bet. It’s the "Goldilocks" of types of collar shirts for men. Not too wide, not too narrow. It works with or without a tie.
- The Cutaway: This is for the bold. The points actually angle back toward the shoulders. It’s very British, very Jermyn Street. If you wear this without a tie, it can look a bit "Italian playboy," which is a vibe, but maybe not for a funeral.
- The Extreme Cutaway: Honestly? Most guys should skip this. It’s hard to pull off unless you have a very specific, aggressive style.
The spread collar is great for men with narrower faces because the horizontal lines of the collar help broaden the appearance of the jawline. It’s a visual trick. It balances things out.
Let’s Talk About the Point Collar (The Traditionalist)
The point collar is what most people think of when they hear "dress shirt." The points are close together, often pointing straight down. It’s the standard. Because the opening is narrow, it naturally draws the eye downward, making it a godsend for guys with rounder faces or shorter necks. It elongates.
However, the point collar has a downside. If you don't wear a tie, the points tend to hide under your jacket lapels, or worse, they pop out and sit on top of them like 1970s wings. To prevent this, you need collar stays. Those little plastic or metal tabs you slide into the underside of the collar? They aren't trash. Use them. Better yet, get brass or stainless steel ones. They provide the weight needed to keep the collar standing at attention.
The Rebirth of the Camp Collar
Ten years ago, you only saw camp collars on retired guys in Florida or in Magnum P.I. re-runs. Now? They’re everywhere. This is a "lifestyle" shirt if there ever was one. The camp collar (sometimes called a Cuban collar) is flat, double-notched, and sewn directly to the shirt body without a collar band.
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It’s meant to be worn open. It’s breezy.
The rise of brands like Portuguese Flannel and Todd Snyder has brought this style back into the mainstream. It’s usually found on linen or Tencel shirts. It’s the ultimate summer move. You can’t wear a tie with it—it literally doesn't have the hardware for it—so don't try. It’s meant for high-waisted trousers and a pair of loafers.
The Formal Outliers: Wingtips and Club Collars
Sometimes you need to get weird. Or very, very formal.
The Wingtip collar is strictly for tuxedos. It’s a stiff, standing collar where the tips are folded down to look like tiny wings. Its only job is to sit behind a bowtie. If you wear this with a regular necktie, you will look like you’re wearing a costume. Avoid that.
Then there’s the Club collar. This is the one with the rounded edges. It started at Eton College in the mid-1800s as a way for students to distinguish themselves. It feels vintage because it is. It’s got a bit of a Peaky Blinders energy. It’s a great way to break up the monotony of your shirt rotation, but it’s definitely a "statement" piece. It works best on men with angular features because the rounded collar softens the face.
Why Fabric Choice Changes Everything
You can have the perfect collar shape, but if the fabric is wrong, the whole thing falls apart. A spread collar in a stiff, heavy twill feels very formal. That same spread collar in a washed denim? Suddenly it’s rugged.
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- Poplin: Crisp, thin, and professional. This is for your point and spread collars.
- Oxford Cloth: Heavy, durable, and textured. This is almost exclusively for button-downs.
- Flannel: Soft and fuzzy. Best for casual button-downs or hidden button-down styles.
- Linen: The king of wrinkles. Works beautifully with camp collars and soft, unstructured spread collars.
Common Mistakes Most Guys Make
Size is the first hurdle. Most men buy shirts with collars that are too big. You should be able to fit two fingers between your neck and the collar when it's buttoned. Any more and you look like you’re shrinking; any less and you’re tempting a stroke.
The second mistake is ignoring the "tie space." This is the gap at the top of the collar where the knot sits. If you’re wearing a big, chunky wool tie with a narrow point collar, the collar is going to bulge and look distorted. Match the weight of the tie to the width of the spread.
Finally, let's talk about the "hovering collar." This happens when your jacket's collar doesn't sit flush against your shirt's collar. There’s a gap. This is usually a tailoring issue with the jacket, but a weak, flimsy shirt collar makes it look ten times worse.
Looking Ahead: The Evolution of the Collar
We are seeing a shift toward "one-piece collars." Instead of the collar being a separate piece of fabric sewn onto a stand, the entire front placket and collar are cut from a single piece of cloth. It creates an incredible, natural roll that stays upright even without a tie. It’s expensive to make and hard to find outside of custom tailors or high-end brands like Stoffa, but it’s arguably the most elegant version of types of collar shirts for men available today.
People are also getting more comfortable with "grandad" or band collars. These have no "flap" at all—just the band. It’s a clean, minimalist look that works well under a chore coat or a casual blazer. It removes the "stuffiness" of traditional menswear while keeping the structure of a button-up.
Your Personal Action Plan
Stop buying "standard" shirts. Next time you're shopping, follow these steps to actually upgrade your wardrobe:
- Check your face shape. If you have a round face, look for point collars or semi-spreads. If your face is long or thin, go for a wider spread.
- Invest in stays. If you buy a shirt with a point or spread collar, throw away the flimsy plastic stays it came with and buy a set of metal ones. They cost $15 and will make a $50 shirt look like a $150 shirt.
- Trial the Button-Down. If you don't own a high-quality Oxford Cloth Button Down (OCBD), get one in light blue. It is the most versatile garment in existence.
- Match the occasion. Keep the camp collars for the weekend, the spread collars for the big meetings, and the button-downs for everything in between.
- Find a tailor. Even an off-the-rack shirt can be saved if the collar fits but the body doesn't. A tailor can’t easily fix a collar that's the wrong size, so prioritize the neck fit above all else.
The collar is the frame for your face. It's the first thing people see when they look at you. Stop treating it like an afterthought and start using it as a tool to look better than everyone else in the room.