You’ve probably heard the jokes. For years, people in Hong Kong poked fun at Tseung Kwan O New Territories as being the "city of smells" or just a giant collection of identical glass towers built on a pile of trash. Well, things have changed. A lot.
If you haven't visited since 2022, you basically wouldn't recognize the waterfront. It’s transformed from a sleepy, slightly isolated suburb into a legitimate lifestyle destination that actually rivals parts of Hong Kong Island. Seriously. The air is fresher, the vibes are way more "California coast" than "industrial wasteland," and the infrastructure has finally caught up with the population.
What Most People Get Wrong About the TKO Vibe
Most outsiders still think of Tseung Kwan O as a "sleeping town" where people only go to crash after a long day in Central. That’s just not true anymore.
Walk down to the Tseung Kwan O South Waterfront Promenade on a Saturday morning. You'll see dozens of golden retrievers, people sipping oat milk lattes at alfresco cafes like BEANS The Backyard, and kids cycling across the Cross Bay Link. This bridge is actually a big deal. It’s the first marine viaduct in Hong Kong with a carriageway, cycle track, and footway all in one.
The arch on that bridge? It’s called the "Eternity Arch." It looks like an infinity symbol, and it has become the de facto landmark for the entire district. It’s not just for looks, though. It has slashed about 20 minutes off the morning commute for people driving to Kowloon East or the Eastern Harbour Crossing.
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A Land of Five Hubs
Tseung Kwan O isn't just one big blob. It’s actually split into five distinct pockets, each with a totally different personality:
- Po Lam: The "OG" part of town. It’s older, more local, and has the best cheap eats.
- Hang Hau: The transit heart. It’s packed with malls like East Point City and is the gateway to the hiking trails of Clear Water Bay.
- Tiu Keng Leng: A mix of massive public housing and the sleek Hong Kong Design Institute (HKDI) building.
- TKO Town Centre: The "rich cousin" area. High-end malls like PopCorn and those fancy waterfront apartments.
- LOHAS Park: The newest frontier. It’s basically a city within a city, built entirely on reclaimed land with its own massive mall and an international-standard ice rink.
The Reality of Living in Tseung Kwan O New Territories
Let's talk about the "landfill" reputation. Yes, the South East New Territories (SENT) Landfill is right there. But since 2016, it has only accepted construction waste, not the smelly food waste that used to drift over the hills.
Honestly, the "TKO smell" is mostly a myth these days. What you get instead is a "wind corridor" design. Urban planners actually left gaps between the massive residential towers to let the sea breeze blow through. It’s one of the few places in Hong Kong where you don't feel like you’re trapped in a concrete oven during July.
The Great Outdoors (Right in Your Backyard)
If you're into fitness, Tseung Kwan O New Territories is kind of a paradise. You’ve got the Hong Kong Velodrome Park, which isn't just for pro cyclists. It has a massive lawn for picnics, a skatepark, and even cherry blossoms in the spring.
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For the serious hikers, the High Junk Peak Country Trail starts just a short bus ride away from Hang Hau. It’s one of the "Three Sharp Peaks" of Hong Kong. The views from the top are insane—you can see the rugged coastline of Clear Water Bay on one side and the dense skyscrapers of TKO on the other. It’s that classic Hong Kong juxtaposition that never gets old.
Food and Culture: Beyond the Mall Chains
For a long time, the complaint was that TKO only had chain restaurants. You know, the usual suspects you find in every MTR mall.
That’s changing. The waterfront area near Monterey Place and Capri has brought in some actual variety. You've got The Pizza Pig serving massive 30-inch pizzas and Paradise Dynasty for those eight-flavored xiao long bao. If you want something more "old school," head back to Po Lam or the Hang Hau Village area. You’ll find local seafood spots and cha chaan tengs that have been there for decades.
The 2026 Outlook
As of early 2026, the district is still growing. The government is pushing ahead with the Route 6 project, which includes the Central Kowloon Route. Once that’s fully operational later this year, getting to West Kowloon will be a breeze.
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There's also the development of Area 137. This is the next big thing. They’re planning to turn that southern tip of the peninsula into a high-density residential zone for another 135,000 people. It’s controversial because it means more crowds, but it also means more MTR extensions are likely on the horizon.
Is It Actually Worth Visiting?
If you’re a tourist, maybe skip it unless you’re headed to the TKO Heritage Post (a cool converted police station in Tiu Keng Leng).
But if you live in Hong Kong and haven't been in a while? You should go. Rent a bike at one of the shops in Hang Hau, ride across the Cross Bay Link at sunset, and grab a beer at a waterfront bar. It feels less like the New Territories and more like a glimpse of what modern, walkable urban living in Hong Kong could actually look like.
Quick Tips for Navigating TKO:
- Don't rely on GPS inside the malls. The "TKO Bridge System" is a maze of indoor walkways connecting almost every building. You can walk from Po Lam to Hang Hau without ever touching the ground.
- Watch the weather for the bridge. The Cross Bay Link closes to pedestrians and cyclists during high winds (Signal No. 3 or higher). Check the app before you trek out there.
- The "Secret" Garden. Check out Hang Hau Man Kuk Lane Park. It’s a quiet, Suzhou-style garden hidden behind the high-rises. It’s perfect for when the mall crowds get too much.
To get the most out of the area, start your afternoon at the Hong Kong Velodrome Park to see the blossoms or the lake, then walk toward the sea. Aim to hit the Cross Bay Link about 30 minutes before sunset for the best photos of the Junk Bay skyline. If you're looking for property, keep an eye on the secondary market in TKO South, as the completion of Route 6 is expected to keep demand for these well-connected "waterfront lifestyle" units pretty high throughout the rest of 2026.