Treasure Island is a bit of a trip.
If you’ve ever driven across the Bay Bridge, you’ve seen it—that flat, rectangular pancake of land sitting right next to the craggy, natural Yerba Buena Island. It looks a bit out of place because it is. This isn't some ancient geological formation. It’s a 400-acre artificial island built out of bay mud and dredged sand for the 1939 Golden Gate International Exposition. Today, Treasure Island San Francisco is undergoing one of the most massive, expensive, and controversial urban redevelopments in the history of the United States.
It's weird. It’s beautiful. And honestly, it’s kind of a mess depending on who you ask.
Why Treasure Island San Francisco is Changing So Fast
Most people know the island as a place for flea markets or a quick stop to take a photo of the skyline. But right now, there are cranes everywhere. The city is trying to turn this former naval base into a high-density "city of the future" with roughly 8,000 new homes. That’s a huge deal for a city that is notoriously bad at building enough housing.
The project is massive. We're talking a $6 billion price tag.
But here is the thing: building on Treasure Island is a logistical nightmare. Because the island is essentially a pile of dirt in the middle of a seismic zone, the ground is prone to liquefaction. If a big earthquake hits, the ground could theoretically turn into a giant bowl of jelly. To fix this, developers have been using a process called "vibro-compaction." They basically stick giant vibrating probes into the ground to pack the soil down so tight it won't move. Then they add "surcharge" piles—massive mounds of dirt that sit there for months to squeeze out every last drop of water.
It's a slow, noisy process. If you visit today, you’ll see these giant dirt hills everywhere. They aren't permanent features; they’re just there to prep the land so the new skyscrapers don't sink.
The Nuclear Elephant in the Room
You can't talk about Treasure Island San Francisco without talking about the radiation. This is where things get uncomfortable.
🔗 Read more: Madison WI to Denver: How to Actually Pull Off the Trip Without Losing Your Mind
From 1941 to 1997, the island was a naval station (Naval Station Treasure Island). During the Cold War, the Navy used the island to train sailors for nuclear decontamination. They actually brought radioactive materials onto the island, and for decades, the cleanup has been a source of intense legal battles and health concerns for the people who already live there.
Organizations like the Treasure Island Health Network have long argued that the Navy and the city downplayed the risks. While the California Department of Public Health and the EPA have overseen the cleanup, residents have found radioactive "hot spots" near their homes. It’s a classic San Francisco story: a push for shiny new luxury condos clashing with the gritty, often neglected reality of the people who have been there for years.
The Navy insists the land is being made safe for residential use. They’ve dug up thousands of cubic yards of soil. But if you’re looking to move there, it’s worth reading the actual remediation reports rather than just the glossy brochures.
The Reality of Living on a Construction Site
Life on Treasure Island right now isn't exactly "luxury."
- The Wind: It never stops. Because the island is flat and sitting in the middle of the slot where the Pacific air hits the Bay, it’s constantly breezy.
- The Toll: There has been a lot of talk about a "congestion pricing" toll for the island. Basically, the city wants to charge people to drive on and off the island to fund the ferry and bus systems. Residents are, understandably, furious about this.
- The Views: This is the big sell. You get a front-row seat to the San Francisco skyline that is legitimately unbeatable. At night, when the Bay Bridge lights up (assuming the "Bay Lights" installation is actually working), it’s magical.
Is it worth it?
Well, the new ferry terminal is already open. It’s a short, beautiful 10-minute ride to the Ferry Building. For a lot of people, that commute is way better than sitting in traffic on the 101. But you have to be okay with living in a perpetual construction zone for the next decade.
Things to Do Before Everything Changes
If you want to see the "old" Treasure Island before it’s completely overtaken by glass towers, you should go now.
💡 You might also like: Food in Kerala India: What Most People Get Wrong About God's Own Kitchen
Start at Mersea. It’s a restaurant made out of shipping containers. It’s rugged, the food is actually good (try the double stack burger), and it feels like the island used to feel—scrappy and inventive. Then walk over to Treehouse Mycology or one of the small wineries like Sottomarino which is housed in an old metal "damage control" trainer used by the Navy. It’s literally a giant metal cylinder where sailors learned how to plug holes in ships. Now it's a tasting room. Only in San Francisco.
Don't skip the Treasure Island Museum. It's located in Building 1, that big Art Deco masterpiece that looks like it belongs in a Batman movie. It was originally built to be the terminal for Pan Am’s "China Clipper" flying boats. The history in there is wild. They have photos of the 1939 World's Fair when the island was covered in temples, lagoons, and "The Tower of the Sun."
The Climate Change Problem
We have to address the water.
Treasure Island is low. Very low. With sea levels projected to rise significantly over the next fifty years, building a massive residential district here seems... bold? Reckon it’s a gamble. The developers are raising the "grade" (the height of the land) by several feet and building in massive buffer zones to handle storm surges.
They claim the island will be one of the most resilient neighborhoods in the world. Engineers have designed a "perimeter levee" system that can be raised over time. It’s a fascinating experiment in adaptive engineering. If it works, it’s a blueprint for coastal cities everywhere. If it doesn't? Well, the Bay has a way of taking back what was stolen from it.
A Tale of Two Islands
Technically, Treasure Island is connected by a small causeway to Yerba Buena Island. They are like night and day. Yerba Buena is rocky, covered in trees, and home to ultra-expensive new condos like "The Bristol." Treasure Island is the flat, sandy cousin where the more affordable (relatively speaking) housing and the old Navy barracks are.
Watching the interaction between these two spaces is a lesson in San Francisco's class divide. On one side, you have $3 million condos tucked into the cliffs. On the other, you have people living in converted barracks who are worried about their water quality and the upcoming tolls.
📖 Related: Taking the Ferry to Williamsburg Brooklyn: What Most People Get Wrong
Actionable Insights for Visiting or Moving
If you’re thinking about heading over or even signing a lease, here is the ground truth.
1. Check the Ferry Schedule First
Don’t just rely on the bus (the 25 Treasure Island). The ferry is the way to go. It’s more expensive, but the experience is 100x better. Also, parking on the island is becoming a nightmare as more areas get fenced off for construction.
2. Bring a Jacket (Seriously)
It can be 75 degrees in the Mission and 55 degrees on Treasure Island. The wind off the water is no joke. If you're going for sunset photos, you will freeze if you're just in a t-shirt.
3. Research the Soil Reports
If you are moving there, don't just take the landlord's word for it. The Treasure Island Development Authority (TIDA) keeps public records. Look at the specific lot you’re interested in. Most of the new construction is on heavily remediated and compacted land, but knowledge is power.
4. Go for the Flea Market (But Check the Location)
The Treasure Island Flea (now often called TreasureFest) moves around because of the construction. It’s one of the best places to find weird mid-century furniture and local art, but verify the dates and the exact parking situation on their website before you drive across the bridge.
5. Support the Small Guys
The tiny wineries and the few restaurants there are the lifeblood of the community. They are sticking it out through the dust and the noise. If you visit, spend your money with them rather than just taking a photo and leaving.
Treasure Island San Francisco is a place of contradictions. It’s a toxic waste site and a luxury paradise. It’s a historic landmark and a construction zone. It’s a man-made miracle and a potential environmental disaster. It is, in many ways, the perfect microcosm of San Francisco itself—constantly reinventing itself, often at the expense of its own history, but always with a view that makes you forget why you were complaining in the first place.
Check the wind report, grab a ferry ticket, and see it now. In five years, it won't look anything like this. It’ll be shinier, taller, and much more expensive. But it might lose that weird, ghostly charm that makes it one of the most interesting spots in the Bay Area.