You’re walking down Santa Monica Boulevard, dodging the usual WeHo energy—the joggers, the flashy cars, the general buzz of a neighborhood that never really sleeps. Then you see the red awnings of Traktir Restaurant West Hollywood.
It’s been sitting there at 8151 Santa Monica Blvd for years, acting like a portal. One minute you’re in Southern California; the next, you’re in a Slavic tavern where the air smells like dill, garlic, and slow-cooked beets.
Honestly, if you haven’t been, you’re missing out on one of the most authentic slices of Eastern European culture in Los Angeles. It’s not a "concept" restaurant. It’s not trying to be trendy. It just is.
The Confusion Over "Russian" vs "Ukrainian"
People often get caught up in labels here. For a long time, Traktir was simply known as the "Russian spot" in West Hollywood.
But talk to the owners, Oleg and Rina Atroshenko, or look at the menu changes over the last few years, and you’ll see a much deeper story. Oleg was born in Kyiv. The menu is a massive, delicious map of the former Soviet landscape—Ukrainian borsch, Georgian kharcho, and Russian-style pelmeni.
Since the invasion of Ukraine, the restaurant has leaned even more into its roots. They even renamed their "Herring Moskovsky" to "Herring Traktir." It’s a small move, but in this community, it carries weight. It’s about identity.
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What You’re Actually Eating (And What to Skip)
If it’s your first time, the menu can feel like a novel. Don't panic.
Start with the Zakuski. In this culture, you don't just jump into a steak. You start with "zakuski"—basically appetizers that are designed to be eaten with vodka.
- Salo: This is cured pork fat. Yes, literally just fat. It’s garnished with garlic and served on dark bread. If that sounds intense, well, it is. But it's also incredible.
- Herring with Potatoes: A classic. It’s salty, fatty, and hits a specific part of your brain that craves comfort.
- Olivier Salad: Think of it as the ultimate potato salad. It’s got peas, carrots, pickles, and enough mayo to make a cardiologist sweat.
The Dumpling Debate: Pelmeni vs. Vareniki
You’ll see both on the menu. Pelmeni are the meat-filled ones (usually veal and pork). They’re smaller, savory, and usually come with a side of sour cream that’s thicker than Greek yogurt.
Vareniki are larger and more diverse. You can get them stuffed with potato, sauerkraut, or even cherries for dessert. Pro tip: get them fried if you want that extra crunch, though the traditional boiled version is more "grandma-approved."
The Infused Vodka Situation
We have to talk about the vodka. Traktir doesn't just serve a standard rail. They make their own infusions.
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They have a Horseradish Vodka that will absolutely clear your sinuses. It’s aggressive in the best way possible. If you’re feeling less adventurous, the cranberry or raspberry versions are sweet and dangerous because they don't taste like alcohol at all until you try to stand up.
There’s also a "hangover cure" version made with dill pickles. Whether it actually cures a hangover or just distracts you with salt is up for debate, but it’s a rite of passage for WeHo locals.
The Vibe is... Different
Don't expect white tablecloths and hushed whispers.
Traktir is loud. It’s a "tavern" in the truest sense. On any given night, you’ll see families celebrating 80th birthdays next to a group of 20-somethings taking shots of pepper-garlic vodka.
The service is efficient but can sometimes feel a bit "Old World." If you’re used to the overly bubbly "Hi-my-name-is-Tiffany-and-I’ll-be-taking-care-of-you" American style, this might be a culture shock. It’s not rude; it’s just direct. They’re here to bring you Borscht, not be your best friend.
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Why You Should Actually Go
- The Borscht: It’s beef-based, deep red, and served with a dollop of sour cream and fresh dill. It’s $14.95 and arguably the best bowl of soup in the city when it’s raining.
- Chicken Tabaka: This is a pan-seared cornish hen pressed flat. It’s crispy, garlicky, and generally perfect.
- The History: West Hollywood has been a hub for Russian-speaking immigrants for decades. Eating here is a way to support a community that has faced a lot of complex political pressure recently.
Prices and Logistics
It’s not cheap, but it’s not "Sunset Strip" expensive either.
Most entrees like the Beef Tenderloin Shashlik or Lamb Chops will run you anywhere from $40 to $55. However, you can easily make a meal out of appetizers and soup for much less.
They also have a second location in Tarzana if you’re out in the Valley, which is a bit bigger and has a fireplace that’s great in the winter.
Location: 8151 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90046
Hours: Usually noon to 10:00 PM (11:00 PM on weekends).
Parking: There’s a small lot, but it’s West Hollywood. Good luck. Just Uber or find a spot on a side street and enjoy the walk.
Final Advice for Your Visit
If you want the full experience, don't just order one thing. This is family-style food. Bring three people, order the "Russian Trio" of vareniki, a bowl of Kharcho (spicy lamb soup), and a vodka sampler.
Skip the standard "American" stuff like the grilled salmon. You’re at a Slavic tavern. Get the stuffed cabbage (Golubtsy) instead. Your taste buds will thank you, and you’ll leave feeling like you actually experienced something real in a city that can sometimes feel a bit too polished.
Next Steps for You
- Check their website for the most current banquet menus if you're planning a group larger than six, as they have specific "per person" pricing for parties.
- Book a reservation for Friday or Saturday nights through their site or by calling (323) 654-3030, as the dining room fills up fast with local families.
- Visit the deli next door (Mechta) after your meal if you want to buy some frozen pelmeni or authentic Russian tea to take home.