So, you finally pulled the trigger on a Traeger Pro 34. It’s a beast of a machine, sitting there with that classic barrel shape and enough real estate to feed a small army. But then the screen flashes an "LEr" code, or the temperature starts swinging like a pendulum, and suddenly that 1,000-page PDF you ignored feels pretty important. Honestly, most people just toss the Traeger Pro 34 manual into a junk drawer and hope for the best.
Big mistake.
This isn't a "set it and forget it" crockpot. It’s an outdoor convection oven fueled by compressed sawdust. If you don't understand the sequence of operations—specifically how the auger and the hot rod talk to the controller—you’re going to end up with a hopper full of wasted pellets or, worse, a firepot overflow that looks like a miniature volcano.
The Secret "P-Setting" Nobody Explains Right
If you look closely at your Digital Elite Controller, there’s a tiny, unassuming hole often covered by a black sticker that says "Call Service."
Don't call them yet.
This is your P-Setting (Pause Setting). It is the most misunderstood part of the Traeger Pro 34 manual. Basically, when your grill is set to "Smoke," the auger doesn't run constantly. It runs for 15 seconds, then pauses. The "P" value determines how long that pause lasts.
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- P-2 is the factory default (65-second pause).
- Lowering it (P-0 or P-1) feeds pellets faster. Do this if it's freezing outside and your grill keeps dying.
- Raising it (P-4 or P-5) slows things down. Use this on a 90°F July day when the "Smoke" setting is running too hot.
If you change this without knowing what you're doing, you’ll extinguish the fire or cause a massive spike. It's a fine-tuning tool, not a volume knob.
Why Your Initial Firing Probably Failed
Did you skip the seasoning process? You probably did. I get it. You want brisket now. But the Traeger Pro 34 manual insists on a specific "Burn-In" for a reason.
New grills are coated in residual oils from the manufacturing process. If you don't burn those off at 350°F for 20 minutes and then crank it to 450°F for another 30, your first rack of ribs is going to taste like a machine shop.
Also, the "Charging the Auger" step is non-negotiable. You have to run the auger until pellets actually drop into the firepot before you ever hit ignite. If you don't, the hot rod will glow red hot in an empty pot, the controller will time out, and you’ll get that dreaded LEr (Low Error) code before you even start.
The Cleanup Routine That Actually Matters
You can’t just scrape the grates and call it a day.
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Ash is the silent killer of the Pro 34. After every 2 or 3 long cooks, you have to take out the porcelain grates, the grease drain pan, and the heat baffle. Get a shop vac. Suck out every bit of grey dust from the firepot. If ash builds up, it covers the hot rod. When the hot rod is covered, it can't ignite the pellets. Then the auger keeps feeding pellets because the sensor thinks there’s no fire.
Result? A firepot overflowing with unburnt wood. When it finally does catch, it's a grease fire waiting to happen.
Troubleshooting the "LEr" and "HEr" Codes
When the screen starts yelling at you in code, here is what the Traeger Pro 34 manual is trying to tell you:
- LEr (Low Error): Your fire went out. This usually happens because you ran out of pellets, the P-setting is too high for the cold weather, or your RTD probe (the little vertical stick inside the grill) is covered in gunk.
- HEr (High Error): The grill hit over 550°F. This is almost always a grease fire or a faulty RTD sensor. Shut it down. Do not open the lid—oxygen is fuel for the flames. Just let it choke itself out.
Don't Ignore the RTD Sensor
That little silver stick on the left side of the barrel? That's the RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector). It’s the brain. If it’s covered in black smoke residue, it can’t read the temperature accurately. You’ll see the display jump from 225°F to 350°F in seconds.
Wipe it down with a damp cloth every few weeks. Just be gentle. If you bend it too far, you're buying a replacement on Amazon.
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Moving Beyond the Basics
Once you've mastered the startup and the shutdown cycle (which, by the way, must run for the full 10 minutes to burn off excess pellets), you can start playing with the hardware.
Many Pro 34 owners find the temperature swings a bit annoying. The manual says +/- 15 degrees is "normal." If you’re seeing swings of 50 degrees, check your chimney cap height. The Traeger Pro 34 manual suggests about a two-finger gap between the cap and the stack. Too tight and you choke the fire; too open and you lose all your heat.
Essential Maintenance Checklist
- Vacuum the firepot every 20 hours of cook time.
- Inspect the auger for "sawdust bridges" in the hopper.
- Keep pellets dry. Humidity turns pellets into mush, and mush jams the auger.
- Wipe the RTD probe to ensure the controller isn't flying blind.
If you follow these steps, your Pro 34 will actually last a decade. If you treat it like a gas grill, you’ll be replacing the induction fan by next season.
Next Steps for Your Pro 34
Check your firepot for ash buildup right now. If it's been more than two cooks since you vacuumed it out, pull the grates and clear the debris before your next session. Also, verify your chimney cap height; ensure there is a gap of approximately 1 inch (about the width of two fingers) to allow for proper airflow and consistent temperature regulation.