You've got that old black box sitting under your TV gathering dust. It's the Xbox One. Maybe it's the original VCR-looking beast from 2013, or perhaps the slightly sleeker S or the beefy X model. You want to get rid of it. But honestly, the market for a trade in console for xbox one is kind of a mess right now.
Value is dropping. Fast.
If you walk into a retail store today expecting a windfall, you're going to be disappointed. Most people think their console is worth more than it actually is because they remember paying $400 for it. The reality? Technology ages like milk, not wine. Between the launch of the Xbox Series X/S and the shift toward cloud gaming, the older generation is losing its luster for retailers.
The Brutal Reality of Retail Trade-Ins
Let’s talk about GameStop. They are the 800-pound gorilla in the room. When you look at a trade in console for xbox one through them, you have to realize they are a middleman. They need to buy it from you, refurbish it, ship it, and sell it for a profit.
As of early 2026, a standard 500GB Xbox One might only net you $20 or $30 in cash. Maybe $40 in store credit if they’re running a promotion. That feels like a slap in the face. It's basically the price of a couple of pizzas.
Best Buy is another big player. Their trade-in program is hit or miss. Sometimes they won't even take the original 2013 model anymore because the internal hard drives are failing at a high rate. If they do take it, you’re usually looking at a gift card. No cash. If you’re trying to fund a new GPU or a Series X, that gift card is fine. If you need rent money? Not so much.
Then there’s Back Market and Gazelle. These sites are a bit more clinical. You fill out a form, they send you a box, and you wait. The payout is usually better than GameStop but worse than a private sale. It's the "convenience tax." You pay it so you don't have to meet a stranger in a Starbucks parking lot.
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Hardware Condition: The Dealbreaker
Your console is gross. Sorry, but it is.
Ten years of skin cells, pet hair, and dust are living inside those vents. If you want the maximum value for a trade in console for xbox one, you have to clean it. Retailers will deduct "refurbishment fees" if the console looks like it was lived in by a family of raccoons.
The controller matters more than the console sometimes.
A genuine Xbox Wireless Controller is worth about $20-25 on its own in the used market. If yours has stick drift or a sticky "A" button, the trade-in value of the whole bundle plummets. Some places won't even accept the trade without a fully functional controller and the original power brick. Note that the original Xbox One had a massive external power brick, while the S and X models had internal ones. Lose that brick for the 2013 model, and your trade-in value is essentially zero.
Why the Xbox One X is the Only One Holding Value
The Xbox One X was the "World's Most Powerful Console" once. It still holds up because it can play many games in 4K.
If you are looking at a trade in console for xbox one and you own the "X" model, you're in a much better position. Collectors and budget gamers still want these because they offer a high-end experience without the $500 price tag of the current gen. You might still get $100 to $130 for an "X" in good condition.
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Compare that to the Xbox One S. The "S" is everywhere. It was bundled with everything for years. Because there are millions of them floating around, the supply vastly outweighs the demand.
Hidden Costs of Convenience
Selling on eBay or Mercari is the "expert" move, but it's a massive headache. You have to deal with:
- Shipping costs (consoles are heavy and expensive to mail).
- Platform fees (usually 10-15%).
- Scammers claiming the box was empty.
- Packaging materials.
By the time you pay $20 for shipping and $15 in fees on a $80 sale, you’re back down to the $45 you would have gotten at a local shop. This is why most people eventually settle for a standard trade in console for xbox one program. It's just easier.
What About Local Retro Shops?
Don't sleep on the "mom and pop" game stores. Places like eStarland or local independent shops often give better trade-in credit than the big chains. They want the inventory. They have a loyal customer base that isn't just looking for the newest Call of Duty.
However, they are also more discerning. They will check the warranty seal. If you’ve opened your console to try and "fix" it, they might reject it outright.
The Software Value Trap
Your digital games are worth zero.
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It doesn't matter if you have $2,000 worth of games on your hard drive. When you do a trade in console for xbox one, those stay with your account, not the hardware. If you have physical discs, sell them separately. Never trade them in as a bundle unless the retailer is doing a "buy 2 get 50% more" type of deal. You will almost always make more money selling a copy of Elden Ring or Red Dead Redemption 2 on Facebook Marketplace than trading it in with the console.
Timing Your Move
The best time to trade in was yesterday. The second best time is right now.
Prices for last-gen hardware typically drop right before the holidays and right after a new hardware announcement. With rumors of "mid-gen refreshes" or the next Xbox handheld always swirling, the window for getting a decent price on an Xbox One is closing.
Moving Toward a Better Deal
If you are ready to pull the trigger, don't just drive to the nearest store.
Check the online trade-in trackers first. GameStop and Best Buy both have websites where you can punch in your serial number or model and get a quote. Take a screenshot of that quote. It's usually valid for 24 hours.
Factory reset the thing. Please.
Go into Settings > System > Console Info > Reset Console. Choose "Reset and remove everything." You don't want the next owner having access to your credit card info or your weirdly specific Netflix watch history.
Actionable Steps for Your Xbox One Trade-In
- Test the Controller: Download a controller tester app on the Xbox Store. If there is drift, realize you'll get a "defective" trade-in price.
- Gather the Cables: You need the HDMI cord and the power cable. Third-party cables are usually fine, but the power brick for the original model must be official in most cases.
- Clean the Vents: Use compressed air. Do not use a vacuum cleaner, as static electricity can fry the components.
- Compare Three Sources: Check GameStop (credit), a local independent shop (cash), and a site like Swappa or Back Market.
- Check for Promos: Look for "PowerUp Rewards" bonuses or "Trade toward a Series X" specials that can bump your value by 20%.
The market is shrinking. The Xbox One had a great run, but as more games become "Current Gen Only," the demand for the old hardware is falling off a cliff. If you want any value out of your trade in console for xbox one, do it before the next hardware cycle renders it a paperweight.