You’re driving down Marshall Avenue in St. Paul, and suddenly, the city just... stops. One minute you're looking at standard residential blocks, and the next, there’s this massive, rolling expanse of green tucked right against the Mississippi River. That’s the Town & Country Club St Paul. Most people in the Twin Cities have driven past those stone gates a thousand times without ever actually knowing what goes on inside. They think it’s just another stuffy, gated spot for the elite to hide away.
They’re wrong.
Actually, if you’re a golf nerd, this place is basically hallowed ground. It isn't just a club; it’s the literal birthplace of golf in Minnesota. Back in 1888, when the rest of the state was busy with milling and railroads, a few guys were out here trying to figure out how to whack a gutta-percha ball into a hole. It's wild to think about.
The Weird History of How It Started
Most clubs start with a golf course. This one didn't. When Town & Country Club St Paul was founded, it was actually a social club meant for "lawn sports." Think tennis, croquet, and probably a lot of fancy hats. The original clubhouse was a shack. Well, a high-end shack.
Then came 1893.
A member named George McCree came back from a trip to Scotland with some clubs and a crazy idea. He laid out a primitive five-hole course. People thought he was losing his mind. But it stuck. By 1895, they expanded to nine holes, and eventually, the legendary Robert Foulis—who was a protégé of Old Tom Morris himself—came in to design a proper layout. If you know anything about golf history, the connection to Old Tom Morris is like having a direct line to the gods of the game.
The current course mostly reflects the work of William Watson, who did a massive redesign in the 1920s. Watson is the same guy behind Olympic Club and Interlachen. He didn't believe in moving much dirt. He wanted the land to dictate the play. That’s why the course feels so "lived-in" compared to the over-engineered country clubs you see sprouting up in the suburbs today.
It’s Not About the Distance
If you look at the scorecard, you might chuckle. It’s short. By modern standards, it’s a par 72 that barely stretches past 6,400 yards from the tips. In an era where pro golfers are hitting 350-yard drives, that sounds like a joke.
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It isn't.
Town & Country Club St Paul will absolutely wreck your scorecard if you get cocky. The greens are small. They are tilted. They are fast. Because the course sits on the bluffs of the Mississippi, everything breaks toward the river, even when your eyes tell you it’s going uphill. It’s a psychological grind.
Take the 10th hole. It’s a short par 4, but the green is tucked away with a nasty drop-off. If you're a long hitter, you'll try to drive it. You'll probably fail. You'll end up in a bunker or down a hill, wishing you'd just hit a 7-iron off the tee. That’s the "Town & Country experience" in a nutshell. It forces you to play "old school" golf—positioning over power.
The "City Within a City" Vibe
One of the coolest things about the place is the view of the Minneapolis skyline. It’s a bit ironic. You’re sitting in St. Paul, looking across the river at the "other" Twin City while sipping a drink on the patio. It’s arguably the best view in the metro area.
But it’s not just about the golf.
People join for the pool, the tennis courts, and the fitness center, but honestly? They stay for the social gravity. It’s one of those places where the staff knows your kids’ names. It feels less like a corporate entity and more like a massive, well-manicured backyard.
There's this misconception that you have to be a billionaire to walk through the doors. While it is private, the club has worked hard recently to appeal to younger families. You see a lot more strollers and casual Friday vibes than you did twenty years ago. The "Old Boys' Club" image is dying out, replaced by people who just want a quiet place to hang out away from the noise of the city.
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The Logistics: Getting In and Staying In
Let’s be real: private clubs are an investment. Town & Country doesn't blast their initiation fees on a billboard, but like most top-tier Twin Cities clubs, you’re looking at a significant buy-in plus monthly dues.
Membership categories usually break down into:
- Regular (Full) Golf: All-access, voting rights, the whole nine yards.
- Social: Everything but the golf course (though you can usually play a few times a year for a guest fee).
- Junior: A discounted rate for the under-40 crowd to get them in the door before they hit their peak earning years.
Waitlists happen. If you're thinking about joining, you generally need a sponsor—someone who is already a member to vouch for you. It’s a vetting process to make sure you aren't going to be the person shouting into a cell phone on the 14th green.
Why the Location is a Double-Edged Sword
Sitting right on the river is a blessing and a curse. The views are 10/10. The breeze off the water is amazing in July.
But.
The terrain is rugged. If you’re a "walker," bring good shoes. The elevation changes are no joke. There are spots on the back nine where you’ll feel like you’re hiking the North Shore rather than playing a round of golf in the middle of a capital city.
Also, being landlocked by residential neighborhoods means the club can’t just "expand." They can’t add another 500 yards to the course to make it "Tiger-proof." They have to work with what they have. For purists, that’s the charm. The course is a preserved piece of 19th-century history that refuses to change just because technology did.
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Real Talk on the Food and Social Scene
If you aren't a golfer, you're probably there for the deck. The "Saint Andrews" deck is basically the crown jewel of the clubhouse. On a Wednesday night in June, it’s packed.
The food isn't just "clubhouse burgers" either. They do high-end dining, but they also have a solid grasp on the Minnesota staples. Their walleye is legit. The wine list is surprisingly deep.
Is it pretentious? Kinda, sometimes. It’s a country club. But it’s a St. Paul country club. There’s a difference. St. Paul has always been the "older, quieter brother" to Minneapolis's flashy, modern vibe. That carries over into the club’s culture. It’s more about heritage and legacy than showing off how much money you made in crypto last year.
The Environmental Factor
One thing nobody talks about is how much work goes into keeping that much grass alive right next to a major waterway. The club has to follow strict environmental regulations regarding runoff into the Mississippi. They’ve moved toward more sustainable turf management over the last decade. It’s a delicate balance: keeping the greens "country club perfect" while ensuring they aren't dumping chemicals into the river.
Actionable Insights for Potential Members or Guests
If you’re lucky enough to get an invite to play or are considering a membership, keep these things in mind:
- Don’t Bring Your Ego: If you’re a long hitter, leave the driver in the bag on the tight holes. You will lose balls. You will get frustrated. Play for the center of the green.
- Respect the Dress Code: It’s not the 1950s, but it’s not a public muni either. Tucked-in shirts and no cargo shorts. Just do it.
- Check the Calendar: The club hosts a lot of weddings and corporate events. If you're a member, you have to get used to sharing the space during peak wedding season.
- The "River Rule": On the greens, everything breaks toward the Mississippi River. Even if it looks like it’s breaking left, if the river is to your right, the ball is going right. Trust the topography, not your eyes.
- Network Early: If you want to join, start showing up to the public-facing charity events or ask your network who is a member. Getting a sponsor is 90% of the battle.
Town & Country Club St Paul remains a bit of a mystery to the average Minnesotan. It’s a weird, beautiful, hilly relic of a bygone era that somehow managed to stay relevant. Whether you're there for the history, the 10th-hole heartbreaks, or just a cold drink overlooking the river, it’s a foundational piece of the Twin Cities' social fabric.
If you're looking for a golf experience that feels like stepping back into 1888—without the wooden clubs and weird pants—this is the only place in the state that actually delivers. It’s short, it’s punchy, and it’s unapologetically St. Paul.
To get started with a visit, your best bet is to reach out to their membership director directly or find a member who can host you for a "discovery" round. Most people find that once they spend an afternoon on that back deck, the initiation fee starts looking like a much better deal than it did on paper.
Key Takeaways for the Local Golfer
- The 1888 Factor: You are playing on the oldest golf site in Minnesota.
- Short but Deadly: The 6,400-yard length is deceptive; the greens are the real defense.
- Social Hub: It's more of a family-centric club now than a corporate hideout.
- The View: The patio overlooking the Mississippi and Minneapolis skyline is arguably the best in the state.