So you're looking at those postcard-perfect photos of the Vila Vella and wondering if you'll actually be able to swim, or if you'll be shivering in a windbreaker. Honestly, Tossa de Mar weather is a bit of a chameleon. Most people assume "Spain" equals "endless furnace," but this is the Costa Brava. It’s rugged. It’s wild. And the weather reflects that.
If you're planning a trip, you've probably seen the generic charts showing 25°C in summer. But charts don't tell you about the Tramuntana—that north wind that can literally blow the hat off your head while turning the sky a shade of blue you didn't think existed. It’s a place where the Mediterranean climate plays by its own rules, influenced by the proximity of the Pyrenees and the deep, cool currents of the Balearic Sea.
The Reality of Tossa de Mar Weather Year-Round
The biggest mistake is thinking every month is beach weather. It isn't.
Winter in Tossa is quiet. It's actually lovely if you like solitude, but don't expect to be tanning. In January and February, daytime highs usually hover around 13°C to 15°C. At night? It can drop to 4°C. You'll see the locals in thick scarves, sipping coffee in the sun at Platja Gran, but the second the sun ducks behind the castle walls, the damp sea air makes it feel much colder.
Spring is when things get weird. You might have a Tuesday that feels like mid-July, followed by a Wednesday where a sudden "Llevant" storm brings humid clouds and a persistent drizzle. May is technically one of the wettest months, averaging around 87mm of rain. But it’s not London rain; it’s usually short, intense bursts that leave the pine forests smelling incredible.
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When the Sea Actually Warms Up
The water is the great deceiver.
You’ll see people jumping into the Mediterranean in May. They are either very brave or very used to the North Sea. Even though the air might hit 22°C in late spring, the sea temperature is often stuck at a brisk 17°C. It takes a long time to heat up.
If you want that bathtub-warm water experience, you have to wait. August and September are the sweet spots. By mid-August, the water hits about 25°C. This is the best time for snorkeling around the rocks at Mar Menuda because you can stay in for an hour without your lips turning blue.
Summer Heat vs. The Tramuntana Wind
July and August are the headliners. This is when Tossa de Mar weather hits its peak, with averages around 28°C, though 33°C is common during heatwaves.
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Humidity can be a thing here. Because Tossa is tucked into a bay surrounded by hills, the air can get heavy and "muggy," especially in August. But then comes the Tramuntana. This north wind is a local legend. It’s cold, dry, and incredibly strong. It clears the humidity in an hour, wipes every cloud from the sky, and makes the sea look like hammered silver.
- The Upside: The air becomes crystal clear. You can see miles down the coast.
- The Downside: The sea gets choppy. Boat trips to nearby Cala Pola or Lloret usually get canceled when the Tramuntana is blowing hard.
- The Sheltered Secret: If it's windy, head to the smaller coves like Cala Bona. The high cliffs act as a natural shield.
The "Secret" Best Month: September
Ask any local, and they’ll tell you: September is the winner.
The chaotic crowds of August have evaporated. The sun is still strong—averaging 25°C—but it loses that "burn your skin in ten minutes" intensity. Most importantly, the sea is at its warmest. It has spent all summer soaking up the sun.
October is the runner-up, but it's a gamble. It is officially the wettest month in the region. You might get a week of "Golden Autumn" sunshine, or you might get a massive Mediterranean storm that floods the Riera (the dry riverbed that runs through town). If you’re visiting in October, check the AEMET (Spanish State Meteorological Agency) forecasts religiously. They are much more accurate for this specific microclimate than the generic apps on your phone.
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Packing for the Microclimate
Don't just pack flip-flops.
Even in the height of summer, a light cotton sweater is a smart move. The "Marinada" sea breeze kicks in late in the afternoon, and if you're dining outdoors near the medieval walls, you’ll feel the temperature dip.
For a spring or autumn trip, layers are mandatory. You’ll be in a t-shirt at 2:00 PM and wanting a light down jacket by 8:00 PM. And shoes with grip? Essential. Tossa’s cobblestones and the rocky paths of the Camí de Ronda get incredibly slippery if there’s even a hint of sea mist or light rain.
A Quick Breakdown of Averages
| Month | Avg High | Avg Low | Sea Temp |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 13°C | 4°C | 13°C |
| May | 21°C | 11°C | 17°C |
| July | 29°C | 18°C | 23°C |
| Sept | 25°C | 16°C | 24°C |
| Nov | 16°C | 7°C | 17°C |
Basically, if you’re coming for the beach, aim for late June through mid-September. If you’re coming to hike the coastal trails, April, May, and October are far superior—you won’t overheat, and the colors of the cliffs against the water are much more vivid.
Actionable Tips for Your Trip
Before you finalize your dates, do these three things:
- Check the Moon: If you’re a photographer, a full moon over the Tossa lighthouse is iconic, but high tides (though small in the Med) can sometimes wash out the smaller beaches like Es Codolar during storms.
- Monitor AEMET: Use the official Spanish weather site or app. It handles the local wind patterns and "Gota Fría" (cold drop) storm systems far better than international providers.
- Book for September: If your schedule allows, the third week of September offers the best balance of warm water, manageable air temps, and lower prices.
The weather here is part of the charm. It’s what keeps the landscape so green compared to the south of Spain. Embrace the breeze, watch for the Tramuntana, and always have a backup plan for a rainy afternoon in a local bodega.