You’re standing in the middle of Shinjuku, surrounded by neon lights and about ten million people, and honestly, the thought of a white-sand beach feels like a fever dream. But it’s real. Niijima is sitting out there in the Pacific, part of the Izu archipelago, looking like something out of a postcard from the Mediterranean rather than a sub-section of Tokyo’s administrative map.
Getting from Tokyo to Niijima Island is surprisingly easy once you stop overthinking it. It’s one of those trips where the journey is basically the preamble to your vacation, and depending on your budget or how much you hate motion sickness, you’ve got two very different vibes to choose from.
Most people think of Tokyo as just concrete and trains. They’re wrong. Niijima is technically part of Tokyo, but it’s a world away. We're talking turquoise water, volcanic pillars, and the kind of silence you can't find in Shibuya.
The Big Choice: Jetfoil or the Overnight Slow Boat?
Look, if you have the cash, the high-speed jetfoil is the way to go. It’s operated by Tokai Kisen, and it’s basically a boat with wings that flies over the waves. You leave Takeshiba Pier (which is right near Hamamatsucho Station) and you're stepping onto the pier in Niijima in about 2 hours and 20 minutes. It’s fast. It’s efficient. It’s also kinda pricey, usually running you somewhere between 9,000 and 12,000 yen one way depending on the season and fuel surcharges.
Then there’s the Salvia Maru.
This is the large passenger ship. It’s a beast. It leaves Tokyo at night—usually around 10:00 PM or 11:00 PM—and crawls through the dark while you sleep. Or try to sleep. If you’re a budget traveler or just want the experience of waking up to the sunrise over the Pacific, this is your ride. You’ll roll into Niijima around 7:30 AM the next morning.
The price difference is real. A second-class ticket on the slow boat (where you're basically sleeping on a mat in a shared room) can be as low as 4,000 or 5,000 yen. It’s cheap. It’s a vibe. But if you’re prone to sea sickness and the Pacific is feeling grumpy, those eight hours can feel like eighty.
Why Nobody Talks About Flying to Niijima
You can fly. Seriously.
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Most people forget that Chofu Airport exists. It’s a small domestic hub in Western Tokyo, and New Central Airservice (Central Air) runs small Dornier 228 planes out to the islands. The flight from Tokyo to Niijima Island takes maybe 40 minutes.
Forty minutes!
You’re in a 19-seater plane. It’s loud. It’s low-altitude. The views are insane. If the weather is clear, you can see the entire coastline of the Izu Peninsula. The catch? These planes are tiny, which means luggage weight limits are strict. If you’re a surfer bringing your own board, you need to call ahead and pray there’s space in the hold. Also, flights get canceled for wind way more often than the boats do.
Surviving the Logistics: Tickets and Timing
Don't just show up at Takeshiba Pier and expect a seat in August. You will be disappointed.
Booking tickets for the Tokyo to Niijima Island route opens up two months in advance. During "Obon" or Golden Week, those seats vanish in seconds. You can book online via the Tokai Kisen website, which luckily has an English interface now, or you can call their office if you're feeling brave with your Japanese.
If you choose the jetfoil, sit in the middle. Less bounce.
If you choose the overnight ferry, bring snacks. There are vending machines on board that sell everything from hot noodles to beer, but they’re not exactly gourmet. Pro tip: the "Special Beauty" deck on the Salvia Maru is the best place to watch the Tokyo skyline disappear as you sail under the Rainbow Bridge. It’s a core memory kind of moment.
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The Reality of Niijima: More Than Just a Beach
Once you arrive, you’ll realize Niijima is small. Like, "you can bike the whole thing in a few hours" small.
The island is famous for its koga stone—a volcanic rhyolite that is only found here and on Lipari Island in Italy. You’ll see it everywhere. It’s used to carve these weird, Moai-like statues called Moyai. They’re scattered all over the island like silent guardians.
Yunohama Onsen
You have to go here. It’s a public, outdoor hot spring right by the harbor. It’s designed to look like a Greek ruin, which is bizarre but somehow works. Best part? It’s free. And it’s open 24 hours. There is nothing—and I mean nothing—better than sitting in a hot stone bath at 2:00 AM under a blanket of stars while the ocean crashes just a few meters away. Just remember: it’s a swimsuit-only onsen. Don't go in naked. People will stare.
Habushiura Beach
This is the legendary spot. A 6.5-kilometer stretch of white sand and emerald water. If you’re a surfer, this is your Mecca. The waves here are world-class. If you’re just there to tan, it’s still worth it for the sheer scale of the white cliffs (Shiromama) that back the beach. The erosion has created these vertical white walls that look like they belong in a fantasy movie.
Common Misconceptions About the Trip
One big mistake people make is thinking Niijima is a "party island."
It’s not.
Sure, in the peak of summer, the campsites are full of college students and the few bars are hopping, but for 90% of the year, it’s quiet. Real quiet. Many shops and restaurants have irregular hours. If you go during the off-season (November to March), it’s basically a ghost town. Some people love that. Others find it depressing. Know which one you are before you book.
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Also, the "Tokyo" thing confuses people. You are still in Tokyo Prefecture, so your driver's license works, and the currency is the same, but your Suica or Pasmo card is useless for the most part once you step off the boat. Bring cash. The island runs on 1,000 yen bills and coins.
Moving Around the Island
Rent a bicycle.
Unless you're hauling massive surf gear, a power-assisted e-bike is the best way to see everything. There are rental shops right near the port. A car is overkill. A scooter is fun but unnecessary. The hills aren't that bad, but the summer humidity will melt you if you try to use a standard "mamachari" bike. Spend the extra 500 yen for the electric motor. Your legs will thank you.
Food and What to Eat
You’re on an island. Eat the fish.
Kusaya is the local specialty. It’s fermented fish. Warning: it smells like a locker room that hasn't been cleaned since 1994. The taste is actually quite mellow and salty, but the scent is a barrier for many. If you want something less aggressive, try Ashitaba. It’s a local leafy green often served as tempura. It’s bitter, healthy, and goes great with a cold beer.
Crucial Tips for Your Journey
- Check the Weather: The "O-minato" (large port) is on the west side, but if the wind is too strong from the west, the boat will dock at Wakago on the north end. The ferry company will announce this, but if you don't speak Japanese, just follow the crowd to the shuttle buses.
- Reservations: Book your accommodation BEFORE you book your boat. The number of beds on the island is limited.
- WiFi: It’s spotty. Most minshuku (guesthouses) have it, but don't expect 5G speeds in the middle of a volcanic field.
- Trash: Like the rest of Japan, take your trash back with you or dispose of it at your guesthouse. Don't leave it on Habushiura.
Actionable Next Steps
If you're ready to make the trek from Tokyo to Niijima Island, here is your immediate checklist:
- Check the Tokai Kisen Schedule: Look at the calendar for the "Jetfoil" vs the "Large Passenger Ship." If you want to maximize time, take the overnight boat Friday night and the Jetfoil back Sunday afternoon.
- Secure a Room: Look for a minshuku near the Honmura area. This is the main village where the shops and the "Greek" onsen are located.
- Pack Light: Especially if you’re considering the flight from Chofu. Space is a premium.
- Cash is King: Hit the ATM in Shinjuku before you head to the pier. The post office ATM on the island works, but it has limited hours.
This trip isn't about luxury. It's about the contrast. It’s about being in the world's largest metropolis at 9:00 PM and standing on a deserted volcanic beach by sunrise. It’s weird, it’s beautiful, and it’s one of the best kept secrets in Japan.
Plan your dates around the new moon if you can. The lack of light pollution on the island makes the Milky Way look like it's crashing into the sea. You won't get that view from the Tokyo Skytree.
Go book the boat. Stop thinking about it. Just go.