You’ve probably seen it on every second wrist at the local watch meet. Or maybe it’s been haunting your Instagram feed for months. The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 green is one of those rare watches that actually lived up to its own hype cycle. It didn't just show up; it basically took over the "entry-level luxury" conversation and hasn't left since.
But honestly, the green version is a bit of a chameleon. Depending on who you ask, it’s either the "poor man's Royal Oak" or the smartest $700 you can spend on a piece of Swiss engineering. Both of those things can be true at once, I guess. People often look at the photos online and think they know exactly what they’re getting, but this specific reference (T137.407.11.091.00 for the deep green, or the newer .01 for the mint) has some quirks that don't always translate to a 2D screen.
The Dial is Not Just "Green"
When you hear "green dial," you might think of a flat, forest green. That's not what’s happening here. The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 green uses a "Clous de Paris" or waffle-textured dial. It’s a series of tiny, raised squares that catch the light in a way a flat dial never could.
In low light? It looks almost black. Like a deep, inky emerald that hides its identity. Get it under some direct sun, though, and the sunray finish underneath those waffle squares starts to pop. It shifts from a moody forest green to a vibrant, mossy glow.
Then there’s the "Mint Green" version (Ref: T137.407.11.091.01). This one is a totally different beast. It's much lighter—sorta like seafoam or a very pale turquoise. If the deep green is the "business" watch, the mint green is the "I'm on vacation and I don't care what time it is" watch. It’s brighter, louder, and way more polarizing.
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That 80-Hour Power Reserve Secret
The "80" in the name isn't just a marketing number. It’s the power reserve. Most automatic watches in this price bracket give you about 38 to 42 hours. Basically, if you take it off Friday night, it’s dead by Sunday morning.
The Powermatic 80 movement—which is essentially a heavily modified ETA 2824—is what Tissot calls "weekend proof." You can set it down on a Friday evening, go on a 48-hour hiking trip without it, and when you pick it up Monday morning for work, it’s still ticking. No winding, no resetting the date.
How did they do it? They lowered the frequency.
Most Swiss movements beat at 4Hz ($28,800$ vibrations per hour). Tissot dropped this one to 3Hz ($21,600$ vph). Some watch purists complain that the second hand isn't quite as smooth as a 4Hz sweep, but for most people, the extra 40 hours of "juice" is a trade-off they’d make every single time. Plus, it features a Nivachron hairspring. That’s a fancy way of saying it’s way more resistant to the magnetic fields from your phone and laptop than a standard mechanical watch.
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The Integrated Bracelet Trap
We need to talk about the fit. The PRX is an integrated bracelet watch, meaning the lugs are part of the case design. It looks sleek. It looks like the 1970s in the best way possible.
However, the "effective" lug-to-lug distance is a bit of a liar. While the case is 40mm, the first links of the bracelet don’t actually pivot. They stick out. This makes the watch wear much larger than a standard 40mm piece. If you have a wrist smaller than 6.5 inches, the 40mm might look like a dinner plate.
Fortunately, Tissot finally brought the green dial to the 35mm size. For a long time, if you wanted the 35mm, you were stuck with quartz. Not anymore. Now you can get that same waffle-dial mechanical goodness in a size that actually fits a human-sized wrist.
Is it Actually "Luxury"?
This is where the debate gets heated. You’ll hear people compare the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 green to watches that cost twenty times as much.
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Let's be real: the finishing is great for the price, but it’s not a Patek. The bracelet is a bit of a hair-puller if you’re not careful. The movement has some plastic parts inside—specifically in the escapement of some versions—to reduce friction and keep the cost down. Does that matter? For a daily wearer, probably not. For a horological snob? Maybe.
But here is the thing. It’s 100 meters water-resistant. It has a sapphire crystal. It has a see-through case back so you can actually watch the rotor spin. It feels "substantial" in a way that most $700 watches don't.
Quick Spec Check
- Case Size: 40mm (or 35mm)
- Thickness: 10.9mm
- Movement: Powermatic 80 (Automatic)
- Dial: Waffle pattern, Dark Green or Mint
- Crystal: Sapphire (scratch-resistant)
- Water Resistance: 10 bar (100m)
What to do if you're buying one today
If you're hunting for a Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 green right now, don't just buy the first one you see online. Prices fluctuate wildly between authorized dealers and the gray market.
- Check the Reference Number: Make sure you aren't accidentally buying the Quartz version if you want the Automatic. The Quartz has a sunburst dial; the Automatic has the waffle/honeycomb dial.
- Try it on first: If you can, go to a boutique. The 40mm wears more like a 42mm because of those stiff end-links. You might find the 35mm actually looks better on you.
- Look for the Nivachron: Ensure you're getting the latest version of the movement with the anti-magnetic hairspring. It’s standard now, but some older stock might still be floating around.
- Strap Swaps: The PRX has a quick-release system. Tissot makes a leather and a rubber strap specifically for this model. Buy the bracelet version first, though. It’s way harder (and more expensive) to buy the bracelet separately later than it is to buy a rubber strap.
Honestly, the green PRX is probably the most "honest" watch on the market right now. It doesn't pretend to be something it's not, and it offers a level of Swiss craftsmanship that used to be locked behind a much higher paywall. Whether you go for the deep forest green or the "breath of fresh air" mint, it's a piece that's going to be relevant for a long, long time.
Your Next Step: If you've decided the green is for you, measure your wrist circumference before ordering. If you're under 16.5cm (about 6.5 inches), prioritize looking at the 35mm Powermatic 80 model to ensure the integrated lugs don't overhang your wrist.