You’re driving down 422, the sun is hitting the Pagoda on the hill, and you’re wondering if there’s actually anything to do in Reading besides sit in traffic near the Berkshire Mall. I get it. Reading has a reputation. People call it "the pretzel city," talk about the outlets that used to be a big deal in the 90s, and then usually move on to Philly or Lancaster. But honestly? If you know where to look, this place is weirdly fascinating. It’s gritty, sure. But it’s also home to some of the best mountain biking in the country and a food scene that isn't just Pennsylvania Dutch scrapple—though we have plenty of that too.
Finding things to do Reading PA usually starts with that giant red building overlooking the city. The Pagoda. It’s been there since 1908. Why is there a Japanese-style pagoda in the middle of Berks County? Because a guy named William A. Witman Sr. wanted to cover up a stone quarry and turn it into a luxury resort. The resort never happened because he couldn't get a liquor license. Now, it just sits there. It’s the city’s North Star. You can’t go inside right now because of structural concerns and ongoing renovations, but the view from the parking lot at night? It’s arguably the best view in the state. You see the whole grid of the city glowing orange and white below you.
The Outdoorsy Stuff Most People Ignore
If you’re into mountain biking, you already know about Reading. If you don't, you're missing out on a "Ride Center" designated by the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA). This isn't just a local trail in the woods. Mount Penn and Neversink Mountain have over 125 miles of trails. They are rocky. They are steep. They will absolutely wreck your shins if you aren't careful.
Duryea Drive is the road that snakes up to the Pagoda. It’s named after Charles Duryea, who tested his internal combustion engine hill-climbing machines here. Every year, they hold the Pagoda Hillclimb. It’s loud. It’s fast. Vintage cars and modern monsters race against the clock up the switchbacks. Even if you aren't a gearhead, the energy is infectious.
Then there’s Blue Marsh Lake. It’s a bit of a drive toward Leesport, but it’s the go-to for summer.
- Hiking the 30-mile multi-use trail.
- Losing your breath on the hills.
- Kayaking when the water is glass-calm in the morning.
- Watching the sunset at the beach area while eating lukewarm pizza.
The Army Corps of Engineers built it for flood control, but it turned into the region's backyard. Just a heads up: the "beach" is mostly tiny pebbles and sand that gets everywhere. Bring a thick blanket.
West Reading is the Real Heartbeat
If the city center feels a bit heavy, West Reading is where the "cool" stuff lives. Penn Avenue is basically the only place you need to go for a Saturday afternoon. It’s walkable. It’s packed with murals.
You’ve got GoggleWorks Center for the Arts nearby in the old Willson Goggle Factory building. It’s massive. 145,000 square feet of pure creativity. You can walk in and see people blowing glass—actual molten sand being turned into vases—or watch a documentary at the Albert and Janet Boscov Film Theatre. It’s one of the largest community arts centers in the country. It doesn't feel like a stuffy museum. It feels like a workshop.
Where to Eat Without Regret
Let's talk food because searching for things to do Reading PA usually ends with "where is the best taco?"
- The West Reading Tavern: It feels like an English pub. The burgers are consistent, and the beer list is heavy on locals like Weyebacher or Victory.
- Say Cheese!: It’s a restaurant attached to a cheese shop. Get the mac and cheese. Don’t think about the calories.
- Reading Terminal Market... wait, no: People confuse us with Philly. We have the Fairgrounds Farmers Market. It’s on N. 5th Street Highway. It is the holy grail of food. You want Dutch fries? You want a soft pretzel that was dough five minutes ago? This is the place. It’s only open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. If you go on a Saturday at noon, be prepared to play bumper cars with shopping carts.
The Amish influence is real here. Stoltzfus BBQ has chicken that will make you want to move to a farm. It’s salty, fatty, and perfect.
The Weird History You Should Actually Care About
Reading was the second city in the U.S. to be electrified. It was a railroad powerhouse. The Reading Railroad is a square on the Monopoly board for a reason. You can see that history at the Reading Public Museum.
The museum is weirdly high-quality for a city this size. They have a genuine Egyptian mummy named Nefrina. She’s been there since 1930. They also have an arboretum that spans 25 acres. It’s the best place in the city to clear your head. The Wyomissing Creek runs through it, and there are these massive, ancient trees that make the suburban noise disappear.
The Mid-Atlantic Air Museum
Down by the airport (RDG), there’s a collection of planes that actually fly. This isn't just a static display of rusty metal. They have a Northrop P-61 Black Widow—one of only a few left in the world. Their "World War II Weekend" in June is a massive deal. Thousands of re-enactors show up. Tanks roll across the grass. You can hear the roar of a B-17 Flying Fortress from miles away. It’s visceral history.
Entertainment That Isn't a Movie Theater
The Santander Arena and Santander Performing Arts Center (the SPAC) bring in the big names. I’ve seen everything from Jerry Seinfeld to Ghost perform there. The SPAC is an old movie palace from the 1920s. The acoustics are incredible because it was built before everyone relied on massive speakers.
If you want something smaller, look for the Reading Royals. It’s ECHL hockey. It’s fast, the tickets are cheap, and the crowd gets rowdy. There’s something about a minor league hockey game in a post-industrial city that just feels right.
Why the Pagoda Matters (Even if you can't go in)
Locals get defensive about the Pagoda. It’s our landmark. When the lights are red, everything is okay. If they ever go dark, the city feels lost. There have been talks for years about how to fix the "Leaning Tower of Reading" vibes it has regarding its foundation and safety codes.
Current status: You can drive up. You can take photos. You can hike the trails around it. Just don't expect to go to the top floor for a coffee right now. Check the local Berks County news sites before you go, as volunteer groups often hold "lights on" events or food truck rallies in the parking lot.
Practical Logistics for Your Visit
Parking in downtown Reading is... an experience. Use the garages. Don't try to be a hero and find a spot on Penn Street during a rush.
- Transportation: You need a car. Biking is great for sport, but the city isn't exactly laid out for commuter cycling yet.
- Safety: Like any city, stay aware. Stick to the main corridors like Penn Ave in West Reading or the Museum area.
- Timing: Spring and Fall are king. The foliage on Mount Penn in October is world-class.
Reading isn't trying to be Philadelphia. It isn't trying to be the Poconos. It’s this middle-ground spot that survives on pretzels, mountain bikes, and a stubborn refusal to disappear.
Actionable Next Steps
If you're planning a day trip, do this:
Start at the Fairgrounds Farmers Market on a Friday morning for breakfast (get the donuts). Drive up to the Pagoda for the photo op and a quick walk on the Fire Tower trail. Head down to West Reading for lunch at Say Cheese and spend the afternoon browsing the shops like Museum Arcade or Baldwin's Book Barn (a bit of a drive but worth it). End the night with a show at the Santander Performing Arts Center or a Reading Phillies game if it's summer. First Energy Stadium, where the R-Phils play, is consistently ranked as one of the best classic ballpark experiences in the country. They have a swimming pool in right field. Seriously.
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The city has its scars, but the layers of history and the sheer grit of the local food scene make it worth the stop. Just watch your speed on the "S-curves" coming into town. The cops know people like to fly through there.