You’re probably looking at a map of Hawaii right now and feeling a little overwhelmed. It’s huge. Honestly, the "Big Island" (officially Hawaii Island) is twice the size of all the other Hawaiian islands combined. You could fit Oahu, Maui, and Kauai inside it and still have room for a few extra volcanoes. Because of that scale, trying to figure out the best things to do on the Big Island isn't just about picking a beach; it’s about choosing which planet you want to visit today. Do you want the lunar landscapes of a fresh lava flow? The freezing alpine air of a 13,000-foot peak? Or the humid, Jurassic-style rainforests of the Hilo side?
Most people make the mistake of staying in Kona and never leaving the resort. That's a tragedy. If you don't drive at least a few hours, you haven't really seen what makes this place special. We’re talking about 8 out of the world’s 13 climate zones. You can literally get a sunburn and a mild case of hypothermia on the same afternoon. It’s a wild, rugged, and sometimes unforgiving place that demands a bit of respect and a lot of gas in the tank.
The Lava Reality Check at Volcanoes National Park
Let's get this out of the way: you can't always see flowing red lava. People arrive at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park expecting a Michael Bay movie, but Kilauea follows its own schedule. Sometimes it’s a roaring lake of fire; other times, it’s just a lot of steam and very expensive sulfur smells. Before you go, check the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) website. They track the tremors and eruptions with terrifying precision.
Even if the lava isn't "acting up," the park is mandatory. Walking through the Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku) feels like entering a giant’s straw. It was formed hundreds of years ago when a river of molten rock cooled on the outside while the inside kept flowing. It’s damp, cool, and a little eerie.
If you want a hike that will actually challenge your perception of Earth, do the Kilauea Iki trail. You start in a lush fern forest and descend onto a solidified lava lake that looks like the surface of the moon. Steam still rises from the cracks. You can feel the heat if you press your hand against the rock. It is a visceral reminder that the ground beneath your feet is essentially a temporary crust. Pro tip: wear actual hiking boots. The "pahohoe" lava is brittle and sharp; it will shred a pair of cheap flip-flops in about twenty minutes.
Why Mauna Kea is the Best (and Hardest) View in the Pacific
Mauna Kea is technically the tallest mountain in the world if you measure from the sea floor. Standing at the summit is one of the most spiritual things to do on the Big Island, but it’s also physically taxing. You’re going from sea level to nearly 14,000 feet in about two hours. Your blood oxygen drops. Your brain gets a little fuzzy.
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You need a 4WD vehicle. Seriously. The rangers at the Visitor Information Station (VIS) will check your brakes and your drivetrain. If you’re in a rental sedan, they will turn you around, and they should. The road is steep, gravelly, and dangerous for anyone who doesn't know how to engine-brake.
But the stars. My god, the stars.
Because of the lack of light pollution and the thin atmosphere, the sky looks fake. It’s too crowded. You can see the Milky Way with such clarity it looks like a smudge of white paint across the heavens. Most people stop at the visitor center at 9,200 feet for the stargazing programs, which is smart because the altitude at the summit is no joke. If you do go to the top for sunset, bring a parka. It snows up there. In Hawaii. It’s a weird world.
The Kona Side: More Than Just Coffee
Everyone talks about Kona coffee. Yes, it’s delicious. Yes, it’s expensive because the labor is intensive and the growing area is tiny. If you go to a farm like Hula Daddy or Mountain Thunder, you’ll see why it costs $50 a bag. But the Kona coast is really about the water.
The manta ray night snorkel is often cited as the #1 thing to do, and for once, the hype is actually justified. You hang onto a floating light board in the pitch black while these massive, gentle creatures—some with 15-foot wingspans—somersault inches from your face. They aren't trying to touch you; they’re eating the plankton attracted to the lights. It’s chaotic and beautiful.
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- Kealakekua Bay: This is where Captain Cook met his end, but today it’s a marine sanctuary. The snorkeling is arguably the best in the state.
- Two Step (Honaunau): Easier access than Kealakekua. You literally step off the lava rock into a swarm of yellow tangs and occasionally spinner dolphins.
- Pu'uhonua o Honaunau: Right next to Two Step. It’s a National Historical Park—a place of refuge where, in ancient Hawaii, lawbreakers could be forgiven by a priest. The stone masonry is incredible.
Hilo and the Hamakua Coast: The Green Side
If Kona is the sun-drenched playground, Hilo is the soulful, rainy heart of the island. It rains a lot. Like, 130 inches a year. But that rain feeds the most spectacular waterfalls you’ll ever see. Akaka Falls is the big one. It’s a 442-foot drop into a gorge draped in emerald greenery. It’s a short walk, paved and easy, but it feels like you've stepped into a 19th-century botanical sketch.
Don't skip Hilo town. It’s not "touristy" in the way Lahaina or Waikiki are. It feels lived-in. The Hilo Farmers Market is where you go to get rambutan, mangosteen, and $5 bundles of orchids. Go on a Wednesday or Saturday for the full experience.
Further north is Waipio Valley. Currently, access to the valley floor is restricted to residents due to road safety, but the lookout is still worth the drive. It’s known as the "Valley of the Kings." The sheer cliffs and the black sand beach at the bottom are haunting. It’s one of those places where you can feel the weight of Hawaiian history.
The Secret of the Southern Tip
South Point (Ka Lae) is the southernmost point in the United States. It’s a wind-whipped plateau where the ocean currents are so strong they look like moving rivers. This is where the first Polynesians likely landed around 750 AD.
There’s a famous "green sand beach" nearby called Papakolea. It’s one of only four in the world. The color comes from olivine crystals washed out of a cinder cone.
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Getting there is a trek. You either hike 2.5 miles each way in the blistering sun or pay a local guy with a battered pickup truck to drive you over the rutted, dusty trails. Is it worth it? If you like unique geology and bragging rights, yes. If you’re looking for a relaxing beach day, stick to Hapuna Beach up north. Hapuna is the classic postcard: white sand, turquoise water, and enough space to actually spread out your towel.
Navigating the Big Island Logistics
You need a car. There is no way around this. The "Hele-On" bus exists, but it’s designed for commuters, not sightseers. If you try to do the Big Island via rideshare, you will go broke before you leave the airport.
Where to Stay
- Kona/Waikoloa: Best for sun, resorts, and easy access to snorkeling.
- Hilo: Best for waterfalls, hiking, and a "local" feel.
- Volcano Village: Best for those who want to spend multiple days in the National Park. It’s nestled in a fern forest and gets quite chilly at night—most houses have fireplaces.
A Note on Respect (Kuleana)
The Big Island is culturally sensitive. When you see "Kapu" signs, it means "Keep Out" or "Sacred." Don't take lava rocks home. Legend says Pele (the volcano goddess) will curse you, but more practically, it’s just disrespectful. Also, keep your distance from the Green Sea Turtles (Honu). They are protected by federal law, and the fines for touching them are staggering. Plus, they’re just trying to nap. Leave them be.
Moving Forward With Your Trip
Start by deciding your "home base." If you have a week, split your time: three days in Hilo/Volcano and four days in Kona. This saves you from the "Saddle Road" commute, which is a beautiful drive but exhausting to do every day. Pack layers—you will need a swimsuit for the morning and a hoodie for the evening.
Check the National Park Service website daily for trail closures or new volcanic activity. Weather on the island changes by the mile; if it’s raining in Hilo, drive twenty minutes north and it might be perfectly clear. Flexibility is the only way to truly enjoy the Big Island.
Book your Manta Ray snorkel at least a month in advance, as the reputable operators like Sea Quest or Kona Honu Divers fill up fast. If you're planning on Mauna Kea, check the lunar calendar. A full moon is beautiful, but it washes out the stars—aim for a new moon if you want the "staring into the abyss" experience.
Stock up on groceries in Kona or Hilo at the big stores (Costco or Safeway). Prices in the smaller resort towns like Waikoloa are significantly higher. Most importantly, slow down. This island operates on its own time, and the more you try to rush the itinerary, the more you'll miss the subtle magic of the place.