When you think of 1987, you probably picture the neon-soaked excess of the decade, but for the financial elite, it was the year of the "Great Crash" and the year Michael Douglas made corporate raiding look like a high-fashion sport. If you look closely at the wrist of Gordon Gekko, you aren't seeing a Rolex Submariner or some chunky gold diver. He wore the Wall Street 1987 watch—a yellow gold Cartier Santos Galbée—and it changed how we think about "power" watches forever. It wasn't just a prop. It was a statement about a specific kind of aggressive, polished elegance that defined an era of capitalism that was as brutal as it was stylish.
Most people assume a "power watch" has to be huge.
They're wrong.
The Santos Gekko wore was surprisingly slim. It was square. It had visible screws on the bezel that looked like rivets on a fighter jet. Honestly, it was a bit of a weird choice for a villain, but that's exactly why it worked so well. It suggested someone who didn't need to prove they were rich with a bulky chronograph; they were so rich they could wear a refined, gold tank of a watch while dismantling companies.
The Watch That Defined Gordon Gekko
The 1987 film Wall Street is basically a textbook for "Power Dressing 101." Costume designer Ellen Mirojnick wanted Gekko to look like "new money" that had already conquered the old world. While Bud Fox started the movie with a cheap, nondescript timepiece, Gekko was draped in custom shirts and that iconic Cartier. The specific Wall Street 1987 watch was the Santos Galbée, which Cartier had recently updated in the late '70s and early '80s to compete with the rising popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
Before the Santos Galbée, the Santos was a bit flatter. The "Galbée" version added a slight curve to the lugs and the case, making it hug the wrist better. This made it slide perfectly under those stiff, contrast-collar cuffs Gekko loved. It’s a 29mm watch. By today's standards, people would call that a "ladies' size," which is hilarious because on screen, it looks incredibly masculine. It’s all about the proportions. The square dial makes it wear much larger than a round 29mm watch would, and the solid 18k yellow gold construction provides a "heft" that you can almost feel through the screen.
Why Cartier? Why not a Rolex?
In the mid-80s, Rolex was definitely a status symbol, but it was also becoming a bit common in the trading pits. If you were a mid-level broker, you bought a Datejust. If you were the king of the mountain, you went for something with a bit more "Old World" prestige. Cartier offered that. It was the "Jeweler of Kings," and wearing a gold Santos told the world you had taste that extended beyond the local authorized dealer.
Interestingly, the Santos was actually the first purpose-built pilot's watch in history, created by Louis Cartier for Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. By 1987, that aviation heritage had been completely papered over by a layer of pure, unadulterated Reagan-era wealth. The watch didn't say "I fly planes." It said "I own the airline."
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The Technical Reality of the 1987 Santos Galbée
If you’re looking to track down a Wall Street 1987 watch today, you’re likely looking for the reference 2960 (for the steel/gold) or the 2961 (for the full gold). These used a mechanical automatic movement, specifically the Cartier Calibre 077, which was based on the ETA 2671. It was reliable, easy to service, and fit into that slim case.
There’s a common misconception that Gekko wore a quartz watch because quartz was "high tech" back then. He didn't. The watch in the film is clearly the automatic version, evidenced by the thickness and the way it sits on the wrist. Buying one now is a bit of a minefield because there are so many quartz versions from that era floating around on eBay. If you want the true "Gekko" experience, you have to go mechanical.
The bracelet is the real star here. It’s the "screw" bracelet, where every link has those tiny little decorative bolts. It’s surprisingly comfortable. Because the links are small, it moves more like fabric than metal. In the movie, you see it catching the light every time Douglas reaches for one of those giant 80s brick phones. It’s flashy, but because it’s a Cartier, it’s also refined. That’s the balance everyone was trying to strike in '87.
The "Greed is Good" Aesthetic and the Rolex Datejust
We can't talk about the Wall Street 1987 watch without mentioning the other watches in the film. Bud Fox, played by Charlie Sheen, goes through a "horological evolution." At the start, he’s wearing what looks like a basic, disposable watch. As he gets corrupted by Gekko’s lifestyle, he upgrades.
- The Gold Rolex Datejust: This is what Bud buys when he finally gets a taste of the big leagues. It’s the quintessential 80s "I made it" watch. Fluted bezel, jubilee bracelet, 36mm. It’s the watch of the guy who wants to be Gordon Gekko.
- The Lorus/Seiko influence: You see a lot of these on the extras in the background—the guys actually doing the shouting. They weren't wearing luxury pieces; they were wearing tools to tell the time so they didn't miss the closing bell.
Gekko’s Cartier stands apart from these. It’s the difference between a high-end tool and a piece of jewelry. Gekko wasn't a worker; he was a curator of companies. His watch reflected that. It was beautiful, expensive, and didn't care about "utility" in the traditional sense.
Does the 1987 Style Still Work Today?
Kinda.
Actually, it works really well, but you have to be careful. The "Full Gold" look is a lot. If you walk into a Starbucks today wearing a solid 18k gold Santos Galbée, people are going to notice. It’s a loud watch. But the "Two-Tone" (steel and gold) version has made a massive comeback.
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The "Stay-at-home" era of 2020-2021 saw a huge spike in interest for smaller, vintage-inspired watches. People got tired of 44mm "deep sea" divers that didn't fit under a shirt sleeve. They wanted something with character. The Wall Street 1987 watch fits that perfectly. It’s 29mm, it’s square, and it has a historical pedigree that a modern smart watch can’t touch.
What to look for when buying a vintage Santos
If you're hunting for one, honestly, check the screws first. On many vintage models, the screws on the bracelet or bezel have been polished flat or are mismatched. You want the ones that look sharp. Also, the "White Roman" dial is the classic, but they tend to "spider" or crack over time due to the lacquer. Some people love this—they call it a "spider dial"—and pay extra for it. I think it looks a bit messy, so try to find one with a clean, crisp dial if you want the true Gekko look.
Also, be wary of the "integrated" nature of the bracelet. Unlike a modern watch where you can just swap in a leather strap, the Santos is designed to stay on its bracelet. If the bracelet is stretched out (which happens a lot with gold), it’s a very expensive fix. Always ask for a "stretch test" photo where someone holds the watch head and lets the bracelet hang sideways.
The Psychological Impact of a Square Watch
There is something psychologically different about a square watch. Round watches are "natural"—they mimic the circular motion of the hands. A square watch, like the Wall Street 1987 watch, is an architectural choice. It’s an imposition of human geometry onto the wrist.
In the context of the movie, this makes total sense. Gekko didn't care about the "natural" order of things. He broke things down and rebuilt them in his own image. The Santos is essentially a square peg in a round hole world. It’s defiant.
- Round watches: Sporty, traditional, safe.
- Square watches: Intellectual, aggressive, stylish.
When you wear a Santos, you’re signaling that you care about design more than just "telling time." You’re acknowledging that a watch is a piece of sculpture.
The Market for the "Gekko" Santos in 2026
Prices have spiked. A few years ago, you could find a nice 2961 for around $8,000 to $10,000. Now? You're looking at closer to $15,000 for a sharp example with the original box and papers. The "Two-Tone" versions are still relatively affordable at $4,000 to $6,000, which is honestly a steal for a watch with this much history.
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The irony is that the "Gekko" watch is now worn by people who wouldn't be caught dead in a power suit. It’s become a darling of the "Old Money" aesthetic on TikTok and Instagram. It’s paired with linen shirts and loafers, not contrast collars and suspenders. But that’s the beauty of a classic design—it survives the era that made it famous.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Collector
If you want to own a piece of 1987 cinema and horology, here is how you do it without getting burned.
First, decide on your metal.
The full gold is the "Gekko" spec, but it’s heavy and flashy. If you want something you can wear to the grocery store without feeling like a target, go for the two-tone. It gives you the gold screws and bezel but stays grounded with the steel bracelet.
Second, verify the movement.
Open the case back or have a jeweler do it. You want to see that Cartier-signed automatic movement. Avoid the quartz models (they’ll say "Quartz" on the dial anyway, usually) if you want the investment value.
Third, check the size.
Try on a 29mm square watch before you buy. If you’re used to wearing a 42mm Garmin or a Rolex Submariner, it will feel tiny at first. Give it three days. Your eye will adjust to the proportions, and suddenly, every other watch will look like a dinner plate on your wrist.
Fourth, look at the "hidden" signature.
On a real Cartier dial from this era, the word "Cartier" is usually hidden in the "VII" or "X" Roman numeral. It’s a tiny detail, but it’s one of the easiest ways to spot a low-quality fake.
The Wall Street 1987 watch isn't just about "greed." It’s about a moment in time when style was used as a weapon. Whether you’re a fan of the movie or just a fan of great design, the Cartier Santos Galbée remains one of the few watches that can actually live up to the hype of its own history. It’s sharp, it’s unapologetic, and thirty-nine years later, it’s still the boss.