When the Nissan GT-R R35 first landed in 2007, the world wasn't ready. People called it "Godzilla," and for once, the marketing hype actually matched the reality of what was under the hood. The engine Nissan GT-R R35 uses is the VR38DETT, and honestly, it’s a bit of a freak of nature. While most manufacturers were chasing high-revving naturally aspirated engines or complex hybrids, Nissan basically built a tank engine that could sprint like a gazelle.
It’s heavy. It’s loud. It makes weird clunking noises that make new owners think the transmission is falling out. But it works.
What exactly is the VR38DETT?
Technically, it's a 3.8-liter V6 with two turbochargers. But that's like saying a steak is just a piece of cow. The magic is in how it’s built. Each engine is hand-assembled by a "Takumi" master craftsman in a clean room at Nissan's Yokohama plant. There are only five people in the world allowed to put their name on that engine plaque: Shioya, Onuki, Izumi, Kurosawa, and Azuchi. If you own an R35, you’ve probably peeked at that little plate to see who birthed your motor.
The block is made of aluminum, but here’s the kicker: it has no cylinder liners. Instead, Nissan used a plasma-sprayed bore coating. Basically, they spray a thin layer of molten iron onto the cylinder walls. It’s only 0.15mm thick. This reduces friction and weight, but more importantly, it helps with heat dissipation. When you're pushing 15+ psi of boost, heat is your absolute worst enemy.
Why the engine Nissan GT-R R35 doesn't feel like a V6
If you’ve ever driven a standard V6, they usually feel a bit "thin" at the bottom end. The VR38DETT is different. Because of the independent intake and exhaust systems for each bank of cylinders—basically two three-cylinder engines joined at the crank—the throttle response is surprisingly snappy for a turbocharged car.
One thing people get wrong is thinking the R35 engine hasn't changed since 2007. That’s totally false.
✨ Don't miss: Why Backgrounds Blue and Black are Taking Over Our Digital Screens
Early models (CBA-R35) put out about 480 horsepower. By the time we got to the DBA and EBA generations, Nissan had tweaked the ignition timing, changed the boost pressure, and improved the cooling to bump that number up to 565 hp in the standard trims and 600 hp in the NISMO. They even started using the turbochargers from the GT3 race car in the later NISMO models to reduce lag.
It’s all about efficiency.
The "weak links" that aren't actually weak
You’ll hear "keyboard tuners" talk about how the R35 engine is fragile. Usually, they’re actually talking about the GR6 dual-clutch transmission, which was the real bottleneck in the early years. The engine Nissan GT-R R35 itself is incredibly stout. The bottom end can usually handle up to 800 horsepower on stock internals before you have to worry about bending a rod.
That’s insane.
Most performance cars would turn into a pile of confetti if you tried to double their factory output without opening the block. The VR38 uses a closed-deck design, which provides massive structural integrity to the cylinders.
🔗 Read more: The iPhone 5c Release Date: What Most People Get Wrong
However, it’s not perfect.
The "bellhousing rattle" is a real thing. It’s caused by the input shaft of the transaxle wearing out the bearings in the bellhousing. It sounds like marbles in a blender. It won't necessarily kill the car immediately, but it's annoying as hell. Also, the early 2009-2011 models had issues with the circular clips in the transmission, but for the engine specifically, the main concern for high-mileage users is often the timing chain tensioners or the cooling system's ability to keep up during track days.
Tuning: The 1,000+ HP Rabbit Hole
The aftermarket for the GT-R R35 engine is probably the most sophisticated in the world. Companies like AMS Performance and Litchfield have pushed these engines to 2,000, 3,000, and even 3,500 horsepower.
At that point, it’s not really a Nissan engine anymore. It’s a billet aluminum masterpiece.
But for most of us? A "Stage 4" build—which usually involves bigger fuel injectors, upgraded fuel pumps, a full exhaust, and a re-tune—gets you into the 700-horsepower range easily. On E85 fuel, the VR38 becomes a different beast entirely. The cooling properties of ethanol allow for more aggressive timing, making the car feel violent in a way that’s hard to describe.
Is the R35 engine outdated in 2026?
Some people say yes. They look at the new flat-plane crank V8s from Corvette or the hybrid setups in McLarens and think the VR38 is a relic.
💡 You might also like: Doom on the MacBook Touch Bar: Why We Keep Porting 90s Games to Tiny OLED Strips
I disagree.
The beauty of the engine Nissan GT-R R35 is its simplicity compared to modern hybrids. It’s a pure internal combustion powerhouse. It doesn't need an electric motor to "fill in" the torque curve because the turbos are sized perfectly for the 3.8-liter displacement. It’s mechanical. It’s tactile.
Buying Tips for the VR38DETT
If you’re looking to buy a used R35, the engine is the least of your worries, provided it was maintained. Here is what you actually need to check:
- Service History: These engines need oil changes every 3,000 to 5,000 miles if driven hard. Ask for the "POS" (Performance Optimization Service) records.
- Coolant Leaks: Check around the turbo coolant lines. They can get brittle over a decade of heat cycles.
- The "Takumi" Plaque: If it’s missing, or if the bolts on the engine cover look rounded off, someone has been in there. That’s fine if it was a reputable tuner, but it’s a red flag for a "stock" car.
- Oil Analysis: If you're serious, get a Blackstone oil report. It’ll tell you if there’s lead or copper in the oil, which signals bearing wear.
The Real Cost of Ownership
Maintaining this engine isn't cheap. It’s not a Maxima. You’re looking at $1,000+ for a "major" service that includes high-end synthetic oils and specialized filters. But compared to a Ferrari or a Lamborghini? It’s a bargain. You can daily drive an R35. You shouldn't, maybe, because the fuel economy is terrible—expect 12-15 mpg if you have a heavy foot—but you could.
The VR38DETT is a bridge between the old-school RB26 of the R34 and the future of electrification. It’s the last of its kind. A high-displacement, twin-turbo V6 that can take a beating on the Nürburgring and then drive you home with the AC on.
Actionable Maintenance Steps
If you currently own an R35 or are about to pull the trigger, do these three things immediately to keep that engine healthy:
- Clean the MAF Sensors: The Mass Air Flow sensors get dirty, leading to rough idles and lost power. Use a specific MAF cleaner spray every 10,000 miles.
- Upgrade the Circlips: If you have an older model (2009-2012), look into a transmission clip upgrade. It’s technically "trans" work, but it saves the engine from "limp mode" errors caused by sensor mismatches.
- Verify Oil Temps: Never launch the car until the oil temperature is at least 160°F (70°C). Launching a cold VR38 is the fastest way to score your cylinder walls and ruin your day.
The R35 might be getting older, but the heart of the beast is still one of the most capable pieces of engineering ever to come out of Japan. It’s not just an engine; it’s a legend that you can actually own and drive.