Victoria’s Secret used to be a gatekeeper. For decades, the brand dictated a very specific, almost impossible standard of beauty that involved wings, glitter, and a body fat percentage that few humans naturally maintain. But things broke. Public sentiment shifted, sales plummeted, and the company had to face a reality it had ignored for way too long: the average woman isn't a size 0. When the first Victoria's Secret plus size model finally made an appearance, it wasn't just a casting choice. It was a desperate, necessary pivot for a brand on the brink of cultural irrelevance.
Honestly, the transition was clunky. You can’t spend thirty years selling one image and then suddenly expect everyone to believe you’ve always been about "empowerment" and "inclusivity." People saw through it. Yet, looking back at the timeline, the inclusion of models like Ali Tate Cutler and later Paloma Elsesser actually signaled a massive structural change in how the fashion industry treats sizing.
The Breaking Point of the Angel Era
The downfall didn't happen overnight. It was a slow burn. Ed Razek, the former Chief Marketing Officer of L Brands, famously told Vogue in 2018 that the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show shouldn't include "transsexuals" or "plus-size" models because the show was a "fantasy." That comment was basically the iceberg to their Titanic. It wasn't just mean; it was bad business. While VS was busy protecting a 1990s version of a fantasy, brands like Savage X Fenty were eating their lunch by showing real bodies in a way that felt cool, not clinical.
By the time Ali Tate Cutler was hired in 2019 for a partnership with the UK-based brand Bluebella, she was widely cited as the first Victoria's Secret plus size model. Technically, she was a size 14. In the real world, a 14 is the average or even slightly below average size for an American woman, but in the world of high-fashion lingerie, it was a revolution. People were skeptical. Was this a one-off? Was it just a PR stunt to quiet the critics?
The Evolution of the VS Collective
Fast forward a bit. The "Angels" are dead. They retired the wings and replaced them with the VS Collective. This wasn't just about models; it was about "icons" and "change-makers." We started seeing Paloma Elsesser, who is a genuine powerhouse in the plus-size modeling world. Seeing her in a campaign wasn't just about filling a quota—it was about acknowledging that high-fashion aesthetics and larger bodies aren't mutually exclusive.
Paloma isn't just "plus-size." She's a style icon. She brings a level of editorial credibility that the brand desperately needed to claw back its reputation. Alongside her, we saw the inclusion of Precious Lee, another titan of the industry who has graced Vogue covers and walked for Versace. These aren't just "curvy" models; they are some of the most successful women in the industry, period.
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The Reality of Sizing in Lingerie
Lingerie is hard. It’s not like a t-shirt where you can just scale the pattern up and call it a day. The engineering required to make a bra look good and provide support at a 40DDD is entirely different from a 32B. For years, Victoria's Secret simply didn't make the product. You'd walk into a store, and if you were over a certain size, you were basically relegated to the "Pink" section or told they didn't carry your size.
When they started hiring Victoria's Secret plus size model talent, they also had to fix the back-end. They expanded their size range. They started actually designing for curves rather than just stretching out existing designs. It’s still not perfect—many critics point out that their "inclusive" range still stops where many women's needs begin—but the shift is visible.
Why the "Fantasy" Failed
The old fantasy was about the male gaze. It was about what men wanted to see. But women are the ones buying the bras. And modern women, especially Gen Z and Millennials, find the old-school VS aesthetic a bit... cringe. We want to see ourselves. We want to know how a lace bodysuit is going to look on someone who has a stomach or thighs that touch.
- Authenticity over perfection: Models now have stretch marks. They have skin texture.
- The "Relatability" Factor: When you see someone like Remi Bader—who became a VS Pink brand ambassador—you see the struggle of clothes not fitting. It feels human.
- Diversity of Shape: It's not just about "large" or "small." It's about short, tall, athletic, and soft bodies all existing in the same space.
Misconceptions About Plus-Size Modeling
There is this weird myth that hiring a Victoria's Secret plus size model is "promoting obesity." It's an exhausting argument that usually comes from people who don't understand the fashion industry or health. Modeling is a job. These women are professional athletes in their own right, standing for 12 hours a day in heels, holding poses that would make most of us pass out.
The goal isn't to promote a specific health outcome; it's to sell clothes to the people who actually exist. If 60-70% of women are a size 14 or above, it is literally a business failure to ignore them. Hiring models that reflect the customer base isn't "woke" politics; it's basic capitalism.
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The Role of Social Media
Instagram and TikTok changed the power dynamic. Before, a brand could just put out an ad, and that was that. Now, if a brand claims to be inclusive but doesn't actually show plus-size women on their feed, they get called out in minutes. The feedback loop is instant. Victoria’s Secret learned this the hard way. They had to move beyond the occasional "token" curvy girl to making diversity a core part of their visual identity.
Who are the key figures now?
If you're looking at the brand today, several names stand out. We’ve already mentioned Paloma Elsesser and Precious Lee. But then you have Devyn Garcia, who represents that "in-between" or mid-size category that so many women fall into. Then there’s Candice Huffine, a veteran who has been pushing for size diversity long before it was trendy.
These women aren't just faces. They are often consultants. They give feedback on how the pieces fit. They talk about the "double-boob" effect or how a thong sits on a wider hip. That's the level of detail that was missing during the Angel era.
Impact on the Industry
When the biggest lingerie brand in the world changes its tune, everyone else has to follow or risk looking like a dinosaur. We've seen a massive surge in brands like Aerie, which leaned into "No Photoshop" years ago, and newer players like Parade or Cuup. They all forced VS to grow up. The result? A market where you actually have choices.
What’s Next for the Brand?
Victoria’s Secret is trying to find a middle ground. They brought back a version of their "show" in 2023 via a documentary-style feature on Amazon Prime, and the 2024/2025 runway return was heavily focused on being "for women, by women." They aren't trying to be the old Victoria's Secret, but they aren't trying to be a boring utility brand either. They want the glamour, just without the exclusion.
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Is it working? The financial reports are a mixed bag. Rebranding a giant is like turning a cruise ship—it takes a lot of time and a lot of room. But from a cultural standpoint, the sight of a Victoria's Secret plus size model on a billboard in Times Square is no longer a "shocker." It's just normal. And honestly, that’s the biggest win.
Actionable Insights for the Consumer
If you're looking to navigate the "new" Victoria's Secret or any lingerie brand claiming inclusivity, keep these things in mind:
- Check the Size Charts, Not the Labels: Every brand's "plus" starts at a different spot. Look at the actual measurements in inches or centimeters.
- Look for Construction: If a bra is plus-size, it should have wider straps and more hook-and-eye closures at the back. If it's just a scaled-up version of a small bra, it won't be comfortable.
- Follow the Models: If you want to see how the clothes actually fit, follow the models like Paloma Elsesser on social media. They often share "behind the scenes" or unedited shots that give a better idea of the fabric and movement than the official campaign photos.
- Demand Transparency: Support brands that show a variety of bodies in their "all-call" marketing, not just in a specific "plus" section of the website.
The shift toward inclusivity isn't a trend that's going to disappear. It's a permanent relocation of the industry's center of gravity. Victoria's Secret had to learn that the hard way, but the result is a fashion landscape that feels a little more like the real world. That’s a net positive for everyone, regardless of what size you wear.
Focus on brands that prioritize fit over "fantasy." The best lingerie isn't the stuff that makes you look like someone else; it's the stuff that makes you feel like the best version of yourself, wings or no wings.