You’ve seen it. On Instagram, on the necks of every "old money" aesthetic influencer, and probably tucked under the crisp collar of a silk blouse in a boardroom. The Van Cleef 10 motif necklace is basically the unofficial uniform of the luxury world. But here’s the thing: paying five figures for a piece of jewelry that isn’t solid diamonds feels a bit crazy to some people.
It’s just clover-shaped stone, right?
Well, no. Not really.
The Vintage Alhambra 10 motif occupies this weird, perfect middle ground in the Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA) lineup. It’s not the dainty single pendant that everyone gets for their 16th birthday, but it’s also not the massive 20 motif "le sautoir" that feels like you’re wearing a heavy golden anchor. It’s the "Goldilocks" length. At roughly 16.5 inches (42 cm), it sits right on the collarbone. It’s impactful. It’s loud in that quiet, French way.
What You’re Actually Buying (The Technical Stuff)
Let’s get the specs out of the way because VCA is obsessive about this. Each motif—that four-leaf clover shape inspired by the Moorish tiles of the Alhambra Palace in Granada—is bordered by a double row of tiny gold beads. This is called the "perlé" setting. If you look closely at a real one, those beads are perfectly spherical and uniform. Fakes almost always mess this up; the beads look smushed or uneven.
The stones are the real debate. You can get the Van Cleef 10 motif necklace in several "flavors." Mother of Pearl (MOP) is the classic. It’s iridescent, feminine, and honestly, a bit of a nightmare to maintain. Then you have Onyx, which is the "cool girl" choice—stark black against 18k yellow gold. There’s also Carnelian (a deep reddish-orange), Malachite (vibrant green with natural banding), and Tiger’s Eye.
Each stone has a different personality. Malachite is stunning but incredibly temperamental. It’s a soft mineral. If you spray perfume on it or get it too wet, it can turn dull or "die." Onyx and Mother of Pearl are a bit more resilient, but even MOP can lose its luster if it sits against sweaty skin for too long. This isn't "set it and forget it" jewelry.
The 10 Motif vs. The Rest of the Family
Why do people choose the 10 over the 20 or the 5?
Style.
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A 5 motif is essentially a bracelet that was stretched into a choker. It’s fine, but it lacks the drape. The 20 motif is iconic—it’s the one Grace Kelly wore—but it’s long. You have to double it up or wear it as a long chain. The Van Cleef 10 motif necklace is the one you wear with a white T-shirt and jeans to make the outfit look like it cost $5,000. It fills the neckline. It’s the sweet spot.
Interestingly, many collectors end up buying two 10 motifs and connecting them to make a 20 motif. VCA uses the same lobster clasp system for most of their Alhambra line. It’s modular. That’s a secret high-end shoppers use to justify the price—buy one now, buy one in three years, and suddenly you have three different ways to wear your jewelry.
The "Cost Per Wear" Reality Check
Is it worth it?
Let’s look at the numbers. As of early 2026, a standard Vintage Alhambra 10 motif in Mother of Pearl or Onyx retails for a significant chunk of change. We're talking well into the high four-to-low five-figure range depending on the specific stone and gold color.
But here is the wild part: the resale value.
VCA is one of the few brands, along with Cartier and Hermès, where the jewelry actually holds its value or even appreciates. If you buy a Van Cleef 10 motif necklace today and decide you hate it in two years, you can likely sell it on a platform like Sotheby’s or Fashionphile for 80% to 95% of what you paid. Sometimes more if it’s a limited edition or a rare stone like Blue Agate or Sevres Porcelain.
You aren't just buying gold and stone. You’re buying a liquid asset.
Why the "Vintage" Size Matters
You’ll see three main sizes in the Alhambra world: Sweet (tiny), Vintage (standard), and Magic (large).
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The 10 motif almost exclusively comes in the "Vintage" size. This is the size that made the brand famous in 1968. The motifs are about 15mm wide. Anything smaller (Sweet) looks a bit like "children's jewelry" on some adults. Anything larger (Magic) starts to look very "look at me." The Vintage size is the heritage size. It carries the weight of the brand's history without feeling like you’re trying too hard.
Common Misconceptions and Red Flags
People think "18k gold" means indestructible. It doesn't.
Because the Van Cleef 10 motif necklace is made of 18k gold (which is relatively soft) and natural stones, it can scratch. I’ve seen people wear these to the gym. Don't do that. The clashing of the motifs against each other or against gym equipment will ding the gold beads over time.
Another misconception: "The stones are fake because they look too perfect."
VCA rejects about 90% of the gemstones they inspect. If you have a Malachite necklace, the lines (banding) should be beautiful and consistent across all 10 motifs. They spend a lot of time matching the "chatoyancy" or the way light reflects off the stones. If one motif looks dull and the others are shiny, it’s either a bad repair job or a counterfeit.
Spotting a Genuine Piece
If you are buying pre-loved, you have to be careful. The Van Cleef 10 motif necklace is one of the most replicated items in the world.
- The Hallmark: Every piece has a unique serial number. You can call VCA and they can verify if that number exists in their database, though they won't always give you the details over the phone for privacy reasons.
- The Weight: It should feel substantial. Not heavy enough to give you a neck ache, but it shouldn't feel like plastic or hollow gold.
- The Clasp: The "VCA" stamp on the clasp is incredibly crisp. If the engraving looks shallow or blurry, walk away.
- The Stones: There should be no gap between the stone and the gold "perlé" border. It should be a seamless fit.
How to Style It Without Looking Like a Caricature
The danger with the 10 motif is that it can look a bit "suburban mom" if styled too traditionally. To keep it modern, mix it with other textures.
Layering is key. Try wearing your 10 motif with a thin, plain gold chain that is slightly longer. It breaks up the repetition of the clovers. Or, wear it with a crisp, oversized button-down shirt and leave the first few buttons undone. The necklace becomes the focal point of an otherwise "messy" look.
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And honestly? Don't save it for special occasions. The whole point of the Alhambra collection was to create "everyday" jewelry for women in the 60s who were tired of heavy, formal parures. It’s meant to be lived in.
The Maintenance Factor
If you go for the Mother of Pearl version, you have to be careful with lotions. Sunscreen is the enemy of the Van Cleef 10 motif necklace. It gets behind the stone and can actually cause the MOP to peel or lose its "fire."
Most owners take their pieces back to the boutique once a year for a "cleaning." VCA usually does this for free. They use an ultrasonic cleaner (if the stone allows it) and check the integrity of the links. Over time, the gold links can wear down from friction, and you definitely don't want your 10 motif snapping off while you’re walking down the street.
Is There a Better Alternative?
Some people point toward the Cartier Love necklace or the Bulgari Serpenti. Those are great, sure. But they don't have the same "softness." The Alhambra is organic. It’s based on nature. It feels less like "hardware" and more like a piece of art.
If you want the look but can't stomach the price, there are "inspired" pieces, but they never quite get the proportions right. There is a specific mathematical harmony to the way the motifs are spaced on the chain. It’s why you can spot a real one from across a room.
Final Thoughts for the Buyer
Before you drop the money on a Van Cleef 10 motif necklace, think about your wardrobe color palette.
If you wear a lot of black, the Onyx is a no-brainer. It’s chic. It’s sharp.
If you wear pastels and whites, Mother of Pearl is the winner.
If you want something that screams "luxury collector," go for the Guilloché gold. The Guilloché is 18k gold that has been engraved with a sunburst pattern. It catches the light like a diamond but without the diamond price tag. It’s also the most durable because there’s no stone to break.
Immediate Next Steps:
- Visit a Boutique: You cannot judge the "sit" of a 10 motif online. You need to see where it hits your specific collarbone. Some people find it too short and need a 2-inch extension (which VCA can often add).
- Check the Serial: If buying second-hand, always ask for the original "Certificate of Authenticity." The serial number on the paper must match the one engraved on the necklace.
- Choose Your Stone Wisely: If you live in a humid climate or plan on wearing it daily, consider Onyx or Guilloché gold over the more sensitive Mother of Pearl or Malachite.
The 10 motif isn't just a trend. It’s been around for over 50 years. While it's having a massive "moment" right now, it’s one of those rare pieces that will likely still be stylish when you pass it down to someone else. Just keep the perfume away from the clovers.