You probably don’t associate the high-seas grit of the Pentagon with sparkling diamonds. Most people think of the Navy and see gray hulls, white uniforms, and the smell of diesel. But there is a literal United States Navy tiara. It’s real. It exists in the intersection of mid-century high society and naval tradition. Honestly, it’s one of those weird artifacts of history that makes you do a double-take because it feels so out of place in a world of rank and file.
The piece is officially known as the U.S. Navy Tiara, though some jewelry historians refer to it as the "Navy Diamond and Aquamarine Tiara." It wasn't issued by the Department of Defense. You won't find it in a quartermaster's warehouse next to the boots. Instead, it was a gift—a massive, sparkling gesture of goodwill from a corporate giant to the women who served.
Where the United States Navy Tiara Actually Came From
The story starts in the 1950s. Specifically, 1957. This was the year of the Jamestown Festival in Virginia, celebrating the 350th anniversary of the first permanent English settlement in America. As part of the festivities, there was a massive International Naval Review.
Enter Arnold Levy. He was the chairman of the board for a company called Coro, Inc. Back then, Coro was a powerhouse in the costume jewelry world. Levy wanted to create something that honored the "Queen" of the festival, but he specifically wanted the piece to represent the spirit of the U.S. Navy.
He didn't just make a cheap prop. He commissioned a piece that used real gemstones and high-quality craftsmanship. It was intended to be worn by the "Miss Navy" of the year or the honorary queen of the Naval Review. It’s a bit kitschy by today's standards, but in the 1950s, this was peak Americana. It was glamour meeting the military-industrial complex.
The Design: More Than Just Sparkle
If you look closely at the United States Navy tiara, the symbolism isn't exactly subtle. It features a central motif that is unmistakably naval. We are talking about waves, anchors, and stars.
The primary stones are aquamarines. It makes sense, right? "Aqua marina" literally means "water of the sea." The blue stones are set in a way that mimics the crest of a wave. In the center, there is a prominent fouled anchor—the universal symbol of a Chief Petty Officer, but also a general symbol of naval steadfastness.
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The materials used were:
- Large, pear-cut aquamarines.
- Pave-set crystals and small diamonds.
- Silver-toned rhodium plating (standard for high-end costume and mid-tier fine jewelry of the era).
It is a heavy piece. It wasn't designed for a long night of dancing at a ball without some serious hairpins holding it in place. When you see photos of the women wearing it in the late 50s, you can see they are balancing it with the precision of a midshipman standing watch.
The Mystery of Where It Is Now
This is where things get a little murky. After the 1957 festivities, the tiara didn't just vanish, but it certainly fell out of the public eye. For years, people assumed it was tucked away in a private collection or perhaps sitting in a box at the Navy Museum in Washington, D.C.
The truth is that military traditions change. The "Beauty Queen" era of the military—where every base had a pageant—started to fade as the Navy moved toward a more professionalized, integrated force. A tiara didn't really fit the image of the modern female sailor or officer.
However, the United States Navy tiara remains a point of fascination for collectors. It represents a specific slice of time when the military was trying to market itself through the lens of traditional 1950s femininity. It’s a relic.
You’ll occasionally see it mentioned in archives related to the Smithsonian or the Naval History and Heritage Command. It is often confused with other "Navy" jewelry, like the sweetheart brooches that sailors bought for their wives during WWII. But the tiara is in a class of its own. It’s a singular object.
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Why Do We Even Care About a Military Tiara?
It sounds frivolous. It's a crown. Why does it matter in the context of a global superpower's maritime force?
Basically, it’s about the "soft power" of the era. The 1950s were about showing off American prosperity. By creating a United States Navy tiara, Coro and the Navy were signal-boosting the idea that the U.S. was not just a military power, but a cultural one. It was about grace under pressure.
There's also the "Sweetheart" tradition. During the World Wars, jewelry played a massive role in morale. While the tiara is the most extreme example, it grew out of a culture where "Navy" wasn't just a job; it was a lifestyle that extended to the family and the home.
Modern Perspectives on the Piece
If the Navy tried to commission a tiara today, the internet would probably melt down. People would call it a waste of taxpayers' money (even though the original was a gift). But looking back, there’s a sort of nostalgic respect for the craftsmanship.
Jewelry experts, like those you might find on the Antiques Roadshow or at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), often point to pieces like this as "ephemeral jewelry." It wasn't meant to be a crown jewel for a thousand-year monarchy. It was meant for a moment. The fact that it survived at all is the impressive part.
Specific Details for Collectors and Historians
If you are trying to find one of these, or a replica, you need to know what to look for. Genuine "Navy" themed jewelry from this era is often marked with the "Coro" stamp.
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The tiara itself is unique. No mass-produced versions were made for the general public, though Coro did produce "sweetheart" pins that shared similar design elements. If you find a tiara with an anchor on it at an estate sale, it’s likely a replica or a piece made for a local pageant. The actual United States Navy tiara has a very specific height—about three inches at the center peak—and a very specific shade of pale, watery blue in the aquamarines.
The Significance of the Fouled Anchor
The anchor on the tiara is "fouled." In real naval terms, a fouled anchor—one with the chain wrapped around it—is actually a bit of a mess. It’s an anchor that’s stuck or difficult to drop.
Yet, in heraldry, the fouled anchor is the symbol of the individual's struggle and their ability to overcome. Putting that on a tiara was a deliberate choice. It wasn't just a pretty decoration. It was a nod to the specific trials of sea service. It’s that kind of nuance that makes this object more than just a piece of "bling."
What to Do If You're Tracking Navy History
If you’re a researcher or just a hobbyist obsessed with this specific piece of jewelry, your best bet is to look into the Jamestown Festival Archives.
Most of the documentation regarding the presentation of the tiara is housed in Virginia’s state archives or within the historical records of the City of Norfolk. Norfolk, being the home of the world's largest naval base, is the spiritual home of the tiara.
Actionable Steps for the Curious
- Visit the Hampton Roads Naval Museum: They don't always have the tiara on display (it's often in climate-controlled storage), but they have the most comprehensive records of the 1957 International Naval Review.
- Search for "Coro Arnold Levy" in auction databases: If you want to see the quality of work the designer was doing at the time, look for his high-end "Coro Vendome" line. It will give you a sense of the metalwork used in the tiara.
- Check the Naval History and Heritage Command (NHHC) website: Use their digital archives to search for "International Naval Review 1957." You will find the original programs where the "Queen" is pictured wearing the piece.
- Verify your finds: If you ever encounter a piece of jewelry claiming to be "official Navy issue," check for the hallmarks. The U.S. government rarely "issues" jewelry that isn't a medal or a uniform device. Anything else is either a gift, a commemorative piece, or a private purchase.
The United States Navy tiara remains a fascinating, slightly weird, and undeniably beautiful chapter in the history of American naval tradition. It’s a reminder that even the most rigid institutions have moments of unexpected sparkle.