You’re walking across Portman Square, dodging the typical Marylebone breeze, and you see it. Number 20. It looks like every other grand, Georgian townhouse in this pocket of London, but it definitely isn't. People call it Home House. Some call it a hotel. Others insist it's a private members' club where you can't get past the front desk without a pedigree and a handshake. The reality? Home House Hotel Portman Square London is a weird, beautiful hybrid that most people walk past without realizing they can actually book a room there.
It’s grand. It’s slightly eccentric.
Honestly, the history of this place is enough to make a modern developer weep. Built in 1773 for Elizabeth, Countess of Home, it was designed by George Wyatt and Robert Adam. If you know your architecture, those names are basically the rockstars of the 18th century. Elizabeth was a wealthy widow from Jamaica, and she wanted a "pleasure palace." She got exactly that.
What Staying at Home House Hotel Portman Square London Actually Feels Like
Forget the sterile, glass-and-chrome vibes of the big chains near Park Lane. This place feels like you've inherited a very rich, very artistic great-aunt's mansion for the weekend. Because it operates primarily as a private members' club, the "hotel" side of things is tucked into the upper floors and the adjacent House 21.
You’ve got 23 bedrooms and suites. No two are the same.
One room might have a hand-painted silk wallpaper that looks like it belongs in a museum, while the next has a copper bathtub sitting right in the middle of the floor. It’s a bit over-the-top, sure, but that’s the point. The "Club Room" aesthetic isn't for everyone. If you want a desk with a built-in USB-C port and a minimalist ergonomic chair, you’re going to be disappointed. But if you want a four-poster bed and windows that overlook the private greenery of Portman Square, this is your spot.
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The Mystery of Access
Here is the thing most people get wrong: you do not have to be a member to stay here. When you book a room at Home House Hotel Portman Square London, you basically become a temporary member. You get the keys to the kingdom. You can eat in the restaurants, drink in the bars, and hang out in the garden—which, by the way, is one of the best-hidden spots in London during the summer.
The crowd is a mix. You’ll see tech entrepreneurs in hoodies rubbing shoulders with old-school aristocrats and fashion designers. It’s not stuffy, but it is sophisticated. There’s a "no photos" policy in many areas to protect the privacy of members, which adds to that "if these walls could talk" atmosphere.
The Three Houses of Portman Square
The layout is kinda confusing at first. Home House isn't just one building; it's spread across three distinct townhouses: No. 19, No. 20, and No. 21.
- No. 20 is the heart of the operation. This is where the famous imperial staircase is. It’s a literal architectural masterpiece that spirals up under a massive dome. This house is pure Robert Adam—refined, classical, and very "Period Drama."
- No. 21 is where things get a bit wilder. This part of the house was redesigned by Zaha Hadid. Yes, that Zaha Hadid. You have 18th-century moldings clashing with a futuristic, fluid bar made of polished resin. It sounds like it shouldn't work. It really shouldn't. But somehow, the juxtaposition of Georgian grandeur and 21st-century curves is stunning.
- No. 19 is more about the gym, the spa, and some of the more intimate meeting spaces.
Eating and Drinking in a Palace
If you’re staying at Home House Hotel Portman Square London, you aren't going to go hungry. The Restaurant in No. 20 serves what I’d call "refined British" food. Think Cornish turbot or perfectly cooked venison. But honestly? The real draw is the Garden.
In the winter, they put up a heated marquee, but in the summer, it’s an open-air oasis. It’s quiet. In London, quiet is a luxury you usually have to pay through the nose for.
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Then there’s the Bison Bar. It’s dark, moody, and perfect for a late-night Negroni. You’ll find people tucked into corners having conversations that sound like they might be launching a startup or ending a marriage. It’s that kind of place.
Why Location Matters (Even Though You Won’t Want to Leave)
Marylebone is arguably the best neighborhood in London. You are five minutes from the chaos of Oxford Street, but Portman Square feels worlds away. You have the high-end boutiques of Marylebone High Street nearby—places like Daunt Books and various artisanal cheesemongers.
The hotel sits right on the square. If you’re lucky enough to get a front-facing room, you get to wake up to the sight of those massive plane trees. It’s a very specific version of London life that feels more like a village than a global metropolis.
The "Pleasure Palace" Legacy
Elizabeth, the Countess of Home, was known as "The Queen of Hell." She was loud, she was rich, and she loved a party. That DNA still feels present in the building. While many London hotels feel like they are trying to be "lifestyle brands," Home House just is what it is. It’s a bit eccentric. The floors creak. The lighting is intentionally dim.
Some guests might find the lack of a traditional "lobby" a bit jarring. You enter through a discreet door, and someone in a sharp suit greets you. There’s no massive check-in desk with a line of people. It’s more like arriving at a friend's house—if your friend lived in a Grade I listed monument.
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Practical Realities of Your Stay
Let's talk about the stuff that actually matters when you're shelling out for a luxury stay.
The service here is personalized, but it’s "member-style" service. This means it’s attentive but not hovering. They expect you to make yourself at home. The gym is surprisingly good for a townhouse hotel, and the sauna/steam room setup is a godsend after a long flight into Heathrow.
Room Tip: If you want the full historical experience, ask for a room in House 20. If you prefer things a bit more contemporary and closer to the late-night bar scene, House 21 is your better bet.
The Dress Code: It’s "effortlessly chic." You don’t need a tie, but maybe leave the gym shorts in your suitcase when you head down for dinner. People here dress like they have somewhere important to be, even if they're just going to the garden for a coffee.
Is it Worth the Price Tag?
London isn't cheap. Staying at a Robert Adam-designed mansion in Marylebone definitely isn't cheap. You are paying for the atmosphere and the exclusive access. If you just need a place to sleep, go to the Hyatt Regency across the square. But if you want to feel like you’re part of London’s social fabric for forty-eight hours, Home House Hotel Portman Square London is a different beast entirely.
It’s the kind of place where you don't just stay; you inhabit it. You find a favorite corner in the drawing room. You learn which bartender makes the best martini. You start to recognize the regulars.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
- Book Directly: While the big travel sites sometimes list rooms, booking directly through the Home House website often gives you better clarity on which "House" you are staying in.
- Check the Event Calendar: Since it’s a members' club, they often have talks, tastings, or parties. As a hotel guest, you can often get access to these, which is a massive value-add.
- Explore Marylebone: Don’t just stick to the square. Walk ten minutes north to the Wallace Collection for some of the best art in the city (for free), or head to Chiltern Firehouse for a celebrity-spotting brunch.
- The Staircase Photo: Yes, everyone takes a photo of the staircase in No. 20. Do it anyway. The light coming through the dome at midday is spectacular.
- Garden Reservations: If you’re visiting in July or August, email the concierge to snag a table in the garden for dinner the moment you book your room. It fills up fast with members.
You aren't just booking a bed in Marylebone. You are stepping into a 250-year-old social experiment. It’s grand, it’s slightly chaotic, and it’s one of the few places in London that still feels like it has a soul. Enjoy the creaky floors; they’ve been walked on by some of the most interesting people in British history.