Walk up to the white marble sarcophagus at Arlington National Cemetery on a humid July afternoon and the first thing you’ll notice isn't the monument itself. It’s the sound. The rhythmic, metallic click-clack of metal-rimmed heels hitting the pavement. It’s mesmerizing. Every 21 steps, a pause. A turn. Another 21 seconds of waiting.
People think they know the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier because they’ve seen the clips on social media of a Sentinel telling a tourist to be quiet. But honestly? Most of the "facts" floating around the internet about this place are kinda wrong, or at least wildly oversimplified. It’s not just a grave. It’s a living, breathing commitment that has been running, uninterrupted, since the 1930s.
The Mystery of Who Lies Beneath
We like to think of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier as a single entity, but it’s actually a collection. There’s the main sarcophagus—the one everyone takes pictures of—which holds the remains of an unidentified soldier from World War I. Then, tucked into the plaza in front of it, are three marble slabs. These mark the crypts for the unknowns of World War II, the Korean War, and, formerly, the Vietnam War.
The Vietnam crypt is actually empty now. That’s a detail that trips people up. In 1998, thanks to advances in mitochondrial DNA testing, the "Unknown" from Vietnam was identified as Air Force 1st Lt. Michael Joseph Blassie. His family had suspected it for years. They finally brought him home to St. Louis. Today, the slab remains, but the inscription was changed to "Honoring and Keeping Faith with America's Missing Servicemen." It serves as a reminder that with modern technology, the era of the "Unknown" might actually be over. We're too good at identifying bodies now. That’s a weirdly bittersweet realization, isn’t it?
The Sentinels: More Than Just a Fancy Walk
You’ve probably heard the rumors. People say the Sentinels—the guards from the 3rd U.S. Infantry Regiment, known as "The Old Guard"—can’t drink alcohol or watch TV for the rest of their lives. That is total nonsense.
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The reality is actually more intense because it’s grounded in discipline, not some weird monastic vow. These soldiers live in quarters underneath the tomb. While they’re on duty, they are perfectionists. They spend hours—literally hours—prepping their uniforms. They use a blowtorch to polish their shoes to get that mirror shine. They don't wear rank insignia because they don't want to outrank the Unknowns they are guarding.
The Ritual of 21
Why 21 steps? It’s a nod to the 21-gun salute, the highest military honor.
- The Sentinel walks 21 steps across the black mat.
- They turn and face East, toward the battlefields, for exactly 21 seconds.
- They turn and face North for 21 seconds.
- Then they shoulder their weapon on the side closest to the visitors—this signifies that they are standing between the public and the tomb, acting as a literal shield.
They do this 24 hours a day. 365 days a year. It doesn't matter if there’s a hurricane or a blizzard. During Hurricane Isabel and later Hurricane Sandy, the guards were told they could seek cover. They refused. They stayed out there. There’s a specific kind of pride in that which most civilians—myself included—struggle to fully wrap our heads around.
The Architecture of Grief
The big marble monument isn't just a block of stone. It’s Yule marble from Colorado. It’s heavy—nearly 80 tons of it. If you look closely at the carvings, you’ll see three figures: Victory, Valor, and Peace. On the back, there’s an inscription that basically sums up the entire mission: "Here rests in honored glory an American soldier known but to God."
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It’s simple. It’s stark.
The Greek-style pilasters and the wreaths on the sides aren't just for decoration. They represent the major battles of World War I. But the real power of the site isn't in the marble. It’s in the silence. Arlington is a noisy place sometimes—planes fly over from Reagan National Airport constantly—but when you stand at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the crowd usually stays dead quiet. It’s one of the few places in America where the "hustle" actually stops.
Why We Still Guard an Empty Grave
You might wonder why we still have a guard for the Vietnam crypt if it’s empty, or why we keep this up when we have DNA databases.
Historians like Patrick K. O’Donnell, who wrote The Unknowns, point out that these figures represent everyone who never came home. There are still over 80,000 Americans missing from past conflicts. For the families of those 80,000, this isn't a tourist attraction. It’s the only grave they have.
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The Sentinel’s Creed mentions "the discomfort of the elements" and "the steak of my reputation." It’s about the idea that as long as a guard is walking, the sacrifice isn't forgotten. It’s a performance of memory.
What to Do If You Actually Visit
If you're planning to go, don't just show up and wing it. You’ll miss the best parts.
- Timing the Change: The Changing of the Guard happens every hour on the hour from October to March, and every half-hour from April to September.
- The Silence Rule: This isn't a suggestion. If you talk or try to cross the railing, the Sentinel will stop their routine, bring their rifle to a "port arms" position, and command you to remain silent and respectful. It is terrifyingly loud when they speak.
- The Flowers: Most people don't realize you can actually lay flowers at the tomb during specific commemorative events, but usually, that’s reserved for official ceremonies.
- Look at the Shoes: Notice the heels. They are specially built up so the "click" is louder. It helps the guards keep time with each other without speaking.
The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier serves as the heart of Arlington. It’s a place that forces you to reckon with the cost of war without using any names. Whether you're a history buff or just someone passing through D.C., the sheer dedication of the guards makes it worth the trip. It’s one of the few things in this country that hasn't changed in almost a century.
Practical Steps for Your Visit:
Check the official Arlington National Cemetery website before you go. Security lines can be long, and you’ll need a valid ID. Wear comfortable shoes because the walk from the visitor center to the tomb is uphill and longer than it looks on a map. If you want to see the most solemn version of the ceremony, go during the winter. There are fewer tourists, and the sight of a lone Sentinel walking through the snow is something you’ll never forget.