.jpeg?h=6f0d5f13&itok=psL_L7nM)
It was the kind of place where the carpet muffled your footsteps just enough to make you feel like you’d actually arrived somewhere important. If you spent any time tracking the London dining scene over the last three decades, you know exactly what I’m talking about. The Square restaurant Mayfair wasn't just a spot for a pricey lunch; it was a goddamn institution. It was the training ground. The engine room. The place where Phil Howard turned classical French technique into something that felt vital and modern for a changing London.
But then, it vanished.
Well, not literally. It didn't go up in smoke. It was sold, then rebranded, then caught in a legal whirlwind that felt more like a corporate thriller than a hospitality story. Honestly, the way it ended was a bit of a mess.
The Phil Howard Era: When Magic Happened on Bruton Street
When people talk about the "real" Square, they’re usually talking about the Howard years. Phil Howard and business partner Nigel Platts-Martin moved the restaurant from St James’s to Bruton Street in 1997. That was the turning point. It held two Michelin stars for nineteen years. Nineteen. Think about how much the world changed between 1997 and 2016. We went from dial-up internet to iPhones, and through it all, Howard was in that kitchen, probably obsessing over a langoustine tail.
His food wasn't about "concepts" or "storytelling" in the annoying way modern restaurants do it. It was about flavor. Pure, unadulterated, "I-need-to-close-my-eyes-for-a-second" flavor.
He had this dish—sauteed foie gras with a tarte fine of onions and a balsamic reduction. It sounds like a 90s cliché now, right? But back then, the execution was so precise it made everything else in Mayfair look like pub grub. Howard wasn't a celebrity chef who spent his time on TV; he was a chef's chef. You could tell by the people who came out of his kitchen. Brett Graham (The Ledbury), Mikael Jonsson (Hedone), and Ben Marks (Perilla) all cut their teeth there.
If you want to understand the DNA of modern British fine dining, you basically have to look at the roster of chefs who worked the line at The Square. It was a brutal, high-pressure environment, but it produced excellence that defined an era.
✨ Don't miss: 100 Biggest Cities in the US: Why the Map You Know is Wrong
The Sale That Changed Everything
In 2016, the news hit like a lead weight: The Square was being sold.
Nigel Platts-Martin and Phil Howard decided it was time. The buyer? Marlon Abela’s MARC Group (Mother’s Pride, Umu, The Greenhouse). On paper, it made sense. Abela was a collector of Michelin stars, a man with deep pockets and a taste for the finer things. But transition is rarely smooth in the world of high-end hospitality.
When a restaurant is so closely tied to the soul of its founder, can it really survive a change in ownership?
The short answer is: maybe, but it’s incredibly hard. Howard left to open Elystan Street in Chelsea—a brilliant move that stripped away the white tablecloths but kept the soul—and The Square was left to find a new identity. They brought in Yu Sugimoto, a chef with a stellar pedigree from Le Meurice in Paris. He was talented. The food was technically beautiful. But the ghosts of the past were everywhere.
Why The Square Restaurant Mayfair Eventually Folded
The decline of an icon is usually a slow burn followed by a sudden flash. For The Square, the end came in February 2020. It wasn't just about the food or the shifting tastes of Mayfair diners who suddenly wanted "vibe" over "service." It was financial.
Administrators literally walked into the restaurant during a lunch service. Can you imagine? You’re halfway through a bottle of Meursault and a plate of venison, and someone in a suit tells you the doors are being locked. It was a chaotic, undignified end for a place that had been the epitome of grace for so long.
🔗 Read more: Cooper City FL Zip Codes: What Moving Here Is Actually Like
The parent company, MARC Ltd, was facing significant financial headwinds. While the restaurant itself might have still had a following, the corporate structure above it was buckling. It's a cautionary tale for the industry. Even if your dining room is full, the back-end business realities of Mayfair rents and international holdings can pull the rug out from under you.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Failure
People like to blame the "death of fine dining." They say people don't want to sit for three hours and eat tasting menus anymore. That’s nonsense. Look at CORE by Clare Smyth or the enduring success of Ritz London. People still want that experience; they just want it to feel authentic.
The problem wasn't the "fine dining" aspect. It was the loss of the singular vision. When Phil Howard left, the "why" of the restaurant left with him. You can hire the best chefs in the world, but if the heart of the operation feels like a corporate asset rather than a personal passion project, the regulars—the people who actually pay the bills—start to notice.
The Legacy Left Behind in Mayfair
Even though the doors are closed and the space has seen new incarnations, the influence of The Square restaurant Mayfair persists. You see it in the way sauces are mounted in kitchens across the city. You see it in the standard of service at London's top-tier establishments.
Howard’s approach was about the harmony of the seasons. He wasn't trying to be an alchemist or a scientist; he was an artist who respected his materials. That philosophy is the bedrock of what we now consider "Modern British" food.
If you're looking for that spirit today, you have to go to Chelsea. Elystan Street is where Howard’s heart is now. It’s more relaxed. You don't have to wear a jacket. But that first bite of his hand-rolled pasta will take you right back to 2004, sitting in that hushed dining room on Bruton Street.
💡 You might also like: Why People That Died on Their Birthday Are More Common Than You Think
A Quick Reality Check on the Site Today
The physical location at 6-10 Bruton Street hasn't stayed empty. The Mayfair real estate market is too hungry for that. Various projects have cycled through, but none have managed to capture the cultural zeitgeist in the same way. It serves as a reminder that a restaurant is more than its address. It’s a specific alchemy of people, timing, and a very particular kind of obsession.
How to Find "Square-Level" Dining Today
Since you can't book a table at the original Square anymore, where should you go? If you’re chasing that specific blend of French technique and British produce, you have a few specific options that carry the torch.
- Elystan Street (Chelsea): This is the obvious one. It’s Phil Howard’s current home. It’s less "stiff" but the food is just as thoughtful.
- The Ledbury (Notting Hill): Brett Graham was a protégé of Howard. While it has its own distinct identity, the DNA of The Square—that relentless pursuit of the best possible ingredient—is clearly there.
- Kitchen W8 (Kensington): Another Howard partnership. It’s a neighborhood gem that consistently delivers Michelin-star quality without the Mayfair "theatre."
- Portland (Fitzrovia): While a different vibe, it captures that "modern classic" feel where the technique is invisible because the food just tastes so right.
Actionable Insights for the High-End Diner
If you're looking for a dining experience that mirrors the peak of the Mayfair golden era, stop looking for the "new" version of an old favorite and look for the chefs. In the 2020s, the chef’s pedigree matters more than the restaurant’s name.
- Follow the Diaspora: Check the bios of head chefs at new openings. If they spent three or more years at The Square, The Ledbury, or Chez Bruce, you’re almost guaranteed a certain level of technical proficiency.
- Ignore the "Vibe" Hype: Mayfair is currently flooded with "party restaurants" where the music is loud and the food is an afterthought. If you want the Square experience, look for places that still emphasize acoustics and table spacing.
- Lunch is the Secret: The Square was famous for its set lunch. It was the best way to experience high-end cooking without the four-figure bill. This remains true for most of London’s remaining elite rooms.
- Watch the Owner: If a restaurant is owned by a large private equity group, the experience will eventually sanitize. Look for owner-operated spots where the person whose name is on the lease is actually in the building.
The Square restaurant Mayfair might be a memory, but it’s a memory that shaped how an entire generation of Londoners eats. It taught us that "luxury" isn't about gold leaf or caviar bumps; it’s about a perfectly seasoned sauce and a room that makes you feel like the world has stopped turning for a few hours.
To recreate that today, you have to look past the neon lights of Berkeley Square and find the kitchens where the chefs are still actually cooking. They're out there. They're just a little harder to find now that the giant on Bruton Street has gone quiet.
Your next step: To truly understand the legacy of The Square, book a table at Elystan Street for a mid-week lunch. Order whatever pasta dish is on the menu—it’s the most direct link to the technical mastery that made The Square the most respected kitchen in London for nearly twenty years. Don't look for a "recreation" of the past; look for how that expertise has evolved into something more comfortable and contemporary.