You've probably seen that specific, deep wine color in the grocery store checkout line and thought, "I could pull 그게 (that) off." But then you get home, look at a box of dye or a Pinterest board, and realize there are like fifty different versions. It’s overwhelming. Honestly, picking between different shades of burgundy hair is less about the color you like on a celebrity and more about the literal science of your skin's undertones.
Burgundy isn't just one thing. It's a spectrum.
We’re talking about a mix of red, blue, and brown that lives somewhere between a glass of Cabernet and a ripe black cherry. If you mess up the balance, you end up looking washed out or, worse, like you’re wearing a cheap Halloween wig. People often confuse it with maroon or oxblood, but burgundy specifically leans into that purple-red territory. It’s sophisticated. It’s moody. It’s also incredibly tricky to maintain if you don't know what you're doing.
Why Your Skin Tone Dictates Your Burgundy
Most people walk into a salon and point at a photo of Zendaya or Rihanna. That’s a mistake. Those women have professional lighting and stylists who adjust the pigment to match their specific undertones.
If you have cool undertones—think veins that look blue and skin that burns easily—you need a burgundy that leans heavily into the violet and blue side. Think "iced berries." If you go too warm, it clashes. On the flip side, if you have warm, golden, or olive skin, you need those brownish-red "mulled wine" tones.
The Deep Cherry Trap
Black cherry is arguably the most popular of all shades of burgundy hair, mostly because it looks almost black indoors but explodes into a vibrant red-purple under the sun. It’s a "secret" color. However, because it’s so pigmented, it stains everything. Your pillowcases? Ruined. Your white towels? Pink forever.
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Expert colorists like Guy Tang have often pointed out that these high-depth pigments require a very healthy hair cuticle to "stick." If your hair is fried from bleach, that beautiful deep cherry is going to wash down the drain in three shampoos, leaving you with a muddy, swampy orange. It's frustrating. You’ve spent three hours in the chair just to see it vanish because the hair was too porous to hold the molecules.
The Spectrum: From Red Wine to Velvet
Let's talk about the actual variations. You have "Merlot," which is much redder and brighter. It’s bold. It screams for attention. Then there’s "Cabernet," which is deeper, saltier, and has a lot of brown in the base.
Then you have the brights.
Magenta-leaning burgundy is basically for people who want to be seen from space. It’s gorgeous, but it’s high maintenance.
- Mulled Wine: A mix of dark red, orange, and a hint of chocolate brown.
- Eggplant Burgundy: High blue content. Very dark. Very gothic-chic.
- Burgundy Sorbet: A lighter, almost pinkish take that works well as a balayage.
The "balayage" approach is actually what I recommend for most beginners. Instead of dyeing your entire head—which is a massive commitment—you have the stylist hand-paint shades of burgundy hair through your mid-lengths and ends. It grows out beautifully. You don't get that "skunk stripe" at the roots after three weeks. Plus, it saves you a ton of money on touch-ups.
The Chemistry of Fading (And Why Red is a Pain)
Here’s a fact most people hate: red hair molecules are the largest of all hair color molecules. Because they’re so big, they don’t penetrate as deeply into the hair shaft as brown or black pigments. They basically just "sit" on the outside and wait for water to wash them away.
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Every time you shower, you are losing money.
If you want your burgundy to last, you have to change your entire lifestyle. I'm not kidding. Cold showers are mandatory. Hot water opens the hair cuticle and lets those giant red molecules escape. If you’re a fan of steaming hot baths, wear a shower cap. Also, get a sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfates are essentially dish soap for your hair; they’ll strip that $200 color in a week.
Real Talk About Bleaching
Do you need to bleach your hair to get these shades?
It depends.
If you have naturally dark brown or black hair and you want a subtle, "glint in the sun" burgundy, you can often use a high-lift tint or a demi-permanent gloss. No bleach required. But if you want that vibrant, jewel-toned magenta-burgundy, you have to lift your base to at least a level 7 or 8 (a medium-dark blonde).
This is where things get dicey. Bleaching damages the hair, and damaged hair can't hold red pigment. It’s a catch-22. Professional stylists often use bond builders like Olaplex or K18 during the process to keep the hair structure intact so the burgundy actually has something to grab onto.
The Maintenance Budget
Don't get shades of burgundy hair if you're broke.
There. I said it.
Between the color-depositing conditioners (brands like Celeb Luxury or Viral are lifesavers), the salon glosses every six weeks, and the specialized products, it adds up. You're looking at an extra $40–$60 a month just in upkeep products if you want it to stay looking "expensive" and not like a faded box dye from 1998.
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How to Talk to Your Stylist
Don't just say "burgundy." That word means different things to everyone. Bring three photos.
- One of the color in the shade.
- One of the color in direct sunlight.
- One of a "fade" you actually like.
Ask them about the "base tone." If they say it's a "violet-base," and you have yellow-olive skin, you might want to reconsider. You want a "red-brown base" instead. Also, ask for a "gloss" or "toner" rather than a permanent dye if you’re just testing the waters. Permanent dye is a nightmare to get out of your hair if you decide you hate it. Red pigment stays in the hair fibers until you literally cut them off or use a heavy-duty chemical stripper.
Actionable Steps for Your New Look
First, determine your skin undertone by looking at the jewelry that suits you best. If gold makes you glow, go for warm, brownish shades of burgundy hair. If silver is your go-to, stick to the purply, cool tones.
Second, buy a red-tinted color-depositing conditioner before you even go to the salon. Using this once a week will fill in the gaps where the color has washed out. It’s like a "top-up" for your hair.
Third, invest in a good UV protectant spray. Believe it or not, the sun bleaches burgundy hair faster than almost anything else. If you're spending a day outside, your hair will turn a weird ginger-orange color without protection.
Finally, prepare for the "pink suds" syndrome. For the first three washes, your bathroom will look like a crime scene. Don't panic. It's normal. Just make sure you aren't using your favorite white towels for a while. Transitioning to burgundy is a commitment, but when that deep, wine-colored light hits your hair just right, it’s easily one of the most stunning transformations you can do.